Rear wheel lean
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Rear wheel lean
Ok, I've ignored it because I can't see any uneven tire wear, but it is obvious that my rear right wheel is leaning in at the top. All other wheels seem normal but Ray Charles could see that there is something not right here. ?????
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,315
Likes: 4,420
From: Westminster Maryland
What you're seeing means you need a 'camber' adjustment. This is what the camber cam and bolt that go through the strut rod bracket are used for. Unless something is amiss it's a pretty easy adjustment.
Regards,
Alan
PS: As BC said it should be part of a rear wheel alignment.
Regards,
Alan
PS: As BC said it should be part of a rear wheel alignment.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
with the car on the ground as in driven there, crawl up under and see if the ends of the lower struts are concentric appearing with the thru bolts and shock mounts holding them in place...
then IF those appear nearly perfectly concentric, you need jack up the car and move the wheels in and out from the 6-12 position, alternately rocking the wheek by push/pulling back and forth while someone looks as the differential to see how much end slop play is n the 1/2 shafts....anything over 1/8 inch is too much and maybe dangerous....1/16 is more desirable for a max reading....
Gary sets them up to something really tight/snug like ten mills or something....in other words, aint none, nuttin' visible anyway...
then IF those appear nearly perfectly concentric, you need jack up the car and move the wheels in and out from the 6-12 position, alternately rocking the wheek by push/pulling back and forth while someone looks as the differential to see how much end slop play is n the 1/2 shafts....anything over 1/8 inch is too much and maybe dangerous....1/16 is more desirable for a max reading....
Gary sets them up to something really tight/snug like ten mills or something....in other words, aint none, nuttin' visible anyway...
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,652
Likes: 80
From: Lakeland Florida
If you havent had an alignment done to your car before, it may be time for one. Consider a full 4 wheel alignment.
The rear can be adjusted with the strut rods as explained in the earlier post. Camber is the angle of the wheel in relationship to the vertical axis. If the wheel leans in to the inside, then it has negative camber. If it leans to the outside, then it has positive camber.
The specifications for the rear alignment is:
Toe = 1/8" in
Camber 0 degree neg.
You may also want to check for toe in and toe out, but for that adjustment you will need to add or move the shims at the trailing arm.
I recently had a full 4 wheel alignment done, and it took almost 5 hours for this because they had to loosen up the trailing arm bolts to get to the shims. The cost was $365, but it was worth it considerning I have never had an alignment done to the car.
kdf
The rear can be adjusted with the strut rods as explained in the earlier post. Camber is the angle of the wheel in relationship to the vertical axis. If the wheel leans in to the inside, then it has negative camber. If it leans to the outside, then it has positive camber.
The specifications for the rear alignment is:
Toe = 1/8" in
Camber 0 degree neg.
You may also want to check for toe in and toe out, but for that adjustment you will need to add or move the shims at the trailing arm.
I recently had a full 4 wheel alignment done, and it took almost 5 hours for this because they had to loosen up the trailing arm bolts to get to the shims. The cost was $365, but it was worth it considerning I have never had an alignment done to the car.
kdf
Racer
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
From: Fremont,CA
Before you do anything do this as mrvette suggests:
"with the car on the ground as in driven there, crawl up under and see if the ends of the lower struts are concentric appearing with the thru bolts and shock mounts holding them in place...
then IF those appear nearly perfectly concentric, you need jack up the car and move the wheels in and out from the 6-12 position, alternately rocking the wheek by push/pulling back and forth while someone looks as the differential to see how much end slop play is n the 1/2 shafts....anything over 1/8 inch is too much and maybe dangerous....1/16 is more desirable for a max reading...."
Good luck!
"with the car on the ground as in driven there, crawl up under and see if the ends of the lower struts are concentric appearing with the thru bolts and shock mounts holding them in place...
then IF those appear nearly perfectly concentric, you need jack up the car and move the wheels in and out from the 6-12 position, alternately rocking the wheek by push/pulling back and forth while someone looks as the differential to see how much end slop play is n the 1/2 shafts....anything over 1/8 inch is too much and maybe dangerous....1/16 is more desirable for a max reading...."
Good luck!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
Sounds like your diff yokes are worn on the inside. It could be a big job. That would mean taking the diff cover off and removing the yoke retaining clips(if they haven't already fallen off into your gear oil). Then remove the half shafts...etc...etc...Lets hope you don't find the play mentioned in a previous post.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 683
Likes: 4
If the bushings in the strut rod ends are rubber and old this allows too much slop at each end. The result is the rear wheels will lean in. If you have an alignment done they will tell you this also. The best way to correct this is to replace the rubber bushings with urethane bushings that are two piece and a center steel sleeve. Ecklers has these if you want to see what they are with a part number of A7126.
Good Luck
Good Luck
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