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Blueprinting is really a process rather than a brand. Basically blueprinting an engine means making all the dimensions of the engine match the design or "blueprint" dimensions the manufacturer intended for the engine. When an engine is blueprinted all the production tolerances are eliminated and everything is machined to exact dimensions. For instance the block is measured for deck height fore and aft on both head surfaces and squared up so all cylinders have exactly the same deck height, and both head surfaces are at 90° to each other and exactly the same distance from the crank centerline.
Many engine builders dislike the term blueprint and just say they build the engine to the exact manufacturer's dimensions.
The engine in my '69 was built to blueprint specs. - squared and decked, line honed, the crank was straightened, and all throws 90°, and so on. On a race engine the basics to keep the engine alive, on a street engine possibly overkill, but how much it too much?
Pete, there is a step in a true blueprint that you didn't mention. Most folks check tolerances when an engine is built, but every tolerance and dimension must be recorded for a true blueprint. It's done so that when a race engine is torn down for "freshening", all the tolerances can be checked against the last rebuild's figures to see if any clearances, etc. have changed. It's a tedious process but means a lot to a racer with a 15K engine.
Yeah, about 2 years ago, MSVetteman had a very long thread going on Blueprint. He had a problem with his engine, as stated above, in the end they were proven a stand up company and made everything right.
i'm not for sure about gm crate engines as to if you have a problem, weather or not the dealer will warranty the engine, but if you buy from blueprint, or world do they pay for you to ship it back, or do they make you pay, i figure if i bought a crate engine it would probably be gm, but price for hp and tq some of the other company's prices seem to be economic, but since this is the car i've wanted since i was six or eight, i want it right, and am not for sure if with gm if your are buying the name, service, or what, so i figure to research it to the fullest, and i know that you guys have more experience in this area, so give me ideas, and tell me what you think.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by ZZ71S
Read any crate engine warranty very very closely.
5 minutes or 5 miles whichever comes first
Blueprinting a motor is a very involved process. You measure everything, and another engine builder could build the exact same motor with the blueprint, simple as that, really has nothing to do with what work was done or the quality of the work.
However if someone is actually going to blueprint a motor you can be sure all the work done would be top notch. I blueprinted my 427ci, I recorded all measurements.
Another note, you sometimes hear "balanced and blueprinted" when looking at these crate motors, ask to see the blueprint
One more thing, don't buy a crate engine, go to your local track and ask one of the guys who has made more than one pass where he got his motor built
Last edited by MotorHead; Jan 13, 2009 at 07:07 PM.
World and Shafiroff warranties are both third party, basically insurance policies. They won't pay the full cost of the engine and if it's proven that the engine has been raced, the warranty is void. Not worth the paper they're printed on, IMHO.
I agree with the above post, talk to the folks at your local track, there should be at least a couple of local builders that have good reputations. Then visit both shops, you don't have to be an engine builder to tell a professionally run performance shop as compared to a bunch of guys that happen to build a few engines.
World and Shafiroff warranties are both third party, basically insurance policies. They won't pay the full cost of the engine and if it's proven that the engine has been raced, the warranty is void. Not worth the paper they're printed on, IMHO.
I agree with the above post, talk to the folks at your local track, there should be at least a couple of local builders that have good reputations. Then visit both shops, you don't have to be an engine builder to tell a professionally run performance shop as compared to a bunch of guys that happen to build a few engines.
Get one built. Quality Matched parts and plan your build for your intended use and gearing. Do it once and do it right. You will be happier in the long run.
Pete, there is a step in a true blueprint that you didn't mention. Most folks check tolerances when an engine is built, but every tolerance and dimension must be recorded for a true blueprint. It's done so that when a race engine is torn down for "freshening", all the tolerances can be checked against the last rebuild's figures to see if any clearances, etc. have changed. It's a tedious process but means a lot to a racer with a 15K engine.
Good point. Something you definitely need to do.
Pete
ok so lets say that i plan to have the lower end built at a machine shop, and i wanted in the mean time to put cam intake heads, headers and stall converter on the original l48 lower while i do the research and save enough money to have the proper block and lower end configuration put together, can i put new heads on a lower with decent compression and only 59000 miles on it with out a ring job, and what are some suggestions for headers, muffler city sells doug thourley headers, in which the sales rep said were good, the flange was "thicker" as not to warp, 519.00 per set. next question is that if i am going to have a lower end built, it would be preferable to use a block that had a one piece rear main seal as not to fight the two piece leaking syndrome, so are the bolt patterns the same for the heads and intake on the newer style block, and from reading on this forum, their a different bolt patterns for the headers on different make heads. you guys really are a well of knowledge, and i appreciate all input.
I built a 010 2 piece 4 bolt main block. If I had it to do over again I would go with the later model 1 piece 4 bolt main block that would accept a factory roller cam.