As little as he drove it, nothing happened.

 

You may have gotten lucky, but overfilling by that much is not good. The crank will whip the oil full of tiny air bubbles which makes it lose film strength. Since it's new, your filter may not tell you anything, it's common for it to catch small metal particles that didn't come loose during final cleaning. I'd pull a rod cap or two just to be on the safe side. BTW, did the builder put a windage tray on it? That could help a lot with the aeration issue.
If you're running a flat tappet cam, you should always break it in with a good high zinc dino oil to help the cam break in, then switch to synthetic after break-in period.

 

Think of it this way. Oil has no compressability, and with all the rapidly moving parts in there, a massive overfill wouldn't leave room for stuff flying around in there and the oil would have to go somewhere, typically blowing out the front and rear engine seals, and in one extreme case I have seen, blowing out the pan at the pan rail. In your case, I doubt you did any damage at all, just keep an eye on the front and rear seals for any evidence of oil leaks as you continue to drive it.

I agree with the others on the dino break-in oil. Also, don't flog that beast too hard when it's new! Even race engines get a break-in period on the dyno

Oh, the one that was real bad: Girl brings in her BRAND NEW Geo Metro and says it's making a wierd noise while driving and it has an oil leak. Seems her boyfreind offered to "show/help her" change the oil for the first time. He climbs under, drains the TRANSMISSION, adds 5 quarts of oil to the engine and sends her on her way. I had a heck of a time explaining to her father that the car had a ruined engine AND transmission and that it would not be covered by the dealer warranty. Thought he was gonna' kill me

Hans

 

Bottom line:

1. Dino for break-in (until you achieve oil control/ seat the rings and the lifters mate), then go Mobil One.

2. It's not a good thing to use too much oil.

3. YOUR ENGINE IS FINE! Drain the oil, change the filter, put in 5 quarts of Rotella T and then DON"T WORRY ABOUT IT ANY MORE!

God bless, Sensei

 

This is from Mobil's website:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...ics/Myths.aspx

Wow, even Bently.
Years ago we used non detergent to breakin.
I guess things have progressed.

 

Thanks everyone for your help.

 

This is talking about newly manufactured engines. Our old flat tappet engines need dino for mating the lifters.

God bless, Sensei

 

Or the proper suggested additive.

Such as
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_c...bCategoryID=35

Have done it both ways with no problems.

 

So let me see if I understand this correctly: You need "dino " oil to break in new flat tappet engines and new modern engines (one comment) since synthetic oil is too slippery and will not let the rings and lifters mate correctly. Synthetic oil is just that synthetic not dino oil. Some have broken in new flat tappet engines using a synthetic oil and the motor turned to junk from the synthetic oil breakin. Synthetic oil offers no advantages versus conventional oil (various other threads on this subject). I think these statements cover the recommendations.

Well, synthetic oil is "dino" conventional oil, the only major difference is that the molecules in synthetic oil are uniform for better more even protection of metal parts. A synthetic oil is not some miracle magic lubricant, just an oil that allows wear to occur more slowly and evenly than a conventional oil. So much for those that think synthetics offer no benefit. I strongly suspect that those that have had problems using synthetics in recently built flat tappet engines or any newer engines were not due to the synthetic oil but either the engines were not built correctly or broken in incorrectly. IT'S NOT THE OIL!

Now for some personal experience:

1988 Mustang GT 5.0-Synthetic for 100,000 miles after 500 breakin with factory oil-Zero oil consumption.

Rebuilt 4 bolt Chevy 350 in 1986-Synthetic for 100,000 miles after 300 miles break in with Dino Oil-Zero oil consumption

All New Cars-Immediate switch to Synthetic when new-Most recent example 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1-Current mileage 95,000 miles- Zero oil consumption

1978 Corvette L-82 4 spd 3.70 gears-64,000 miles-Synthetic since 1985-Zero oil consumption-Roller rockers, new pushrods, valve stem seals in 1992-Immediate use of synthetic-Zero issues.

Every new piece of power equipment (lawn Tractor, snow blower, generator, etc)since 1994-synthetic from day one, no breakin with dino oil-zero engine issues, none replaced.

On a recently built engine, I would run dino (just to be safe) for 300-500 miles then change the filter and run synthetic based on the chemistry, industry experience and my own personal experience. On any new engine, be gentle for the first 1,000 miles. You will not be sorry.

 

I am glad someone gets it.

 

Sensei, I'm truely amazed that you have those kinds of powers. Can you tell me why my rental car wouldn't go into overdrive on the freeway last night? Oh, I'm sorry, I forgot to give a little info. I'm staying in Medford OR, and I was driving back from Grant's Pass, OR. That should be enough info, huh??

I apologize for be such a smarta$$, but there is no way you can know for sure that no damage was done to that motor. I'm not there inspecting it, and I can't tell if it's damaged or not. You're probably right, but can't say for 100% sure.

BBTank

 

There were many posts that are correct. New engines should be broken in with a good quality standard oil and filter (I like Quaker State). Whenever i buy a new car i change the oil and filter. I will only run a new engine 500 miles and change again to a standard oil and filter just in case some crap got in during the manufacture.
After 6000 miles i always change to Mobile 1.
When i buy a different car and i change the oil with the proper amount i drive it for a few miles and let it sit for an hour. I check the oil with the dip stick and if it doesn't match the line on the dip stick I use a small file and make my own mark.
Over 1/2 quart of oil like many have said is not good because it just froths up into tiny bubbles that will not pick up or lubricate properly.
I have had many cars since 1968 and everyone of them went over 150,000 miles and didn't smoke or use oil except my 82 Silverado that used 1 quart between changes but ran like new and never smoked. It puffed a tiny bit when started but thats it.
I had a re-curve job done on it and it still put out the original 190HP after the re-curve job at 170,000 miles.
Most of my engines have been the GM 6 cyl., 305 or the bullet proof 350.
I also have my trans. checked and oil changed once a year by the best trans. guy I've ever had, Leons transmission in Garden Grove California.
Never ever had one go bad after they do their magic and i pulled a huge 5th wheel for years with that 2 bolt main 350 in the Silverado with a 4 core radiator.
This was a little long but for those that don't know this info it will save ya a ton of bucks as it has for my kids.

 

Well, synthetic oil is "dino" conventional oil, the only major difference is that the molecules in synthetic oil are uniform for better more even protection of metal parts. A synthetic oil is not some miracle magic lubricant, just an oil that allows wear to occur more slowly and evenly than a conventional oil. So much for those that think synthetics offer no benefit. I strongly suspect that those that have had problems using synthetics in recently built flat tappet engines or any newer engines were not due to the synthetic oil but either the engines were not built correctly or broken in incorrectly. IT'S NOT THE OIL!



Wrong, Redline, Amsoil and I believe Royal purple are truly synthetic. They are not made from a mineral base. I think most of the others synthetics are mineral base but have been processed so much that they now can be called synthetic.

 

Info,

SYNTHETIC LUBRICANTS

Synthetic lubricants are chemically engineered from pure chemicals rather than refined from crude oil. That gives them significant advantages over refined oils.

Pure - The feedstocks from which synthetic lubricants are made do not contain sulfur, nitrogen or other elements that invite the formation of sludge and other products of lubricant breakdown. Synthetic lubricants can be used in higher temperatures than refined lubricants without breaking down. Their resistance to breakdown also allows them to be used longer than refined lubricants can be used. Lubricated systems stay cleaner and last longer with synthetic lubricants.

Synthetic lubricants differ from refined oil in three key ways: synthetics are pure, their molecular structure is uniform, and they may be designed to work in applications in which refined oils cannot.

Uniform - The feedstocks from which synthetic lubricants are made feature uniform and smooth molecular structures, which ensures low friction as lubricant layers slide across one another. Reduced friction increases energy through-put for greater fuel efficiency and power and reduces heat and wear for longer equipment life.

Molecular uniformity also helps synthetics resist thinning in heat and thickening in cold, which helps them protect better than refined oils over a system's operating temperature range and helps ensure secure sealing.

"Field experience has shown that synthetics can give economic benefits when used in place of mineral oils which were working satisfactorily. The benefits fall in five general areas:

* Improved energy efficiency
* Wider operating temperature range
* Increased design ratings
* Reduced maintenance
* Better reliability and safer operation"

- A. Jackson, Mechanical Engineering Transactions

 

Conversely, without knowing the EXACT state of the engine BEFORE the said incident, your "Inspection" would be meaningless also.

If it runs fine, what do you suggest? Rebuilding because a spec is off? What's the point?

 

I am glad to hear we can now make oil. Should be able to make gasoline also.

 

You are dead wrong! All oils are derived from the same base stock and are classified as Group I, II, III, IV, or V oil based on their level of refinement. Synthetics are dino oil and conventional oils are dino oil, the difference being the level of refinement. Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Pruple are Group IV oils. Castrol and Penzoil synthetics as an example are Group III but still claisfied as synthetic. Get your facts straight!

 

That would be ZDDP.

 

I guess we need to keep on pumping afterall.

 

I am absolutely astonished at the level of misinformation that is propogated on some issues! Sign me up for the man made gasoline too! At least I can burn the man made gasoline in an engine with man made oil. Can't wait!