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Have a new 383 with vortec heads. Little did I know that my dipstick was about an inch removed from being fully seated in the block. I've been fighting an oil leak at my valve covers so I would frequently check the oil and add as needed. I estimate that I had an extra 2.5 quarts in there. I drove the car probably 4 times for just a few miles each but most of the miles were me running the car hard. The oil was Mobil 1 if that matters. Once I got the dipstick holder seated properly, the oil measured probably 1.5 inches above the top end of the "normal operating range" on the dipstick. Do you think I did any damage?
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Is the oil pan a stock oil pan and the correct stock dipstick to go with it for example the same parts that were in your vette before or did you go with an aftermarket oil pan, if so you need to re-calibrate where the full line is on the dip stick
Have a new 383 with vortec heads. Little did I know that my dipstick was about an inch removed from being fully seated in the block. I've been fighting an oil leak at my valve covers so I would frequently check the oil and add as needed. I estimate that I had an extra 2.5 quarts in there. I drove the car probably 4 times for just a few miles each but most of the miles were me running the car hard. The oil was Mobil 1 if that matters. Once I got the dipstick holder seated properly, the oil measured probably 1.5 inches above the top end of the "normal operating range" on the dipstick. Do you think I did any damage?
Yes you could have if you were running it hard. The crank can pick up the extra oil and whipped it like when you beat an egg. This happened to me. It keeps the oil from getting to the pick up and or air rates the oil . If your oil pressure is ok now it probably didnt do any damage. Mine spun the bearing and let the piston hit the head.
Yes you could have if you were running it hard. The crank can pick up the extra oil and whipped it like when you beat an egg. This happened to me. It keeps the oil from getting to the pick up and or air rates the oil . If your oil pressure is ok now it probably didnt do any damage. Mine spun the bearing and let the piston hit the head.
I agree that unless you had good oil pressure during the runs, you could have caused extra wear on bearing and journal surfaces. I have always heard and/or read that too much oil can be just as damaging as too little oil because the aerated oil cannot be pumped as well and the entrained air can't provide a good oil film.
Terry
I was wondering when somebody would chime in on this thread and say it would/could do damage.
Are you running Mobil1 on a brand new motor? Did it get broke in on Mobil1?
I broke in a motor on Mobil1, one time, never again, it got 500 miles and never seated the rings. Never again for me.
I was wondering when somebody would chime in on this thread and say it would/could do damage.
Are you running Mobil1 on a brand new motor? Did it get broke in on Mobil1?
I broke in a motor on Mobil1, one time, never again, it got 500 miles and never seated the rings. Never again for me.
synthetic oil that is
I break my motors in with regular oil. Then I run royal purple.
I was wondering when somebody would chime in on this thread and say it would/could do damage.
Are you running Mobil1 on a brand new motor? Did it get broke in on Mobil1?
I broke in a motor on Mobil1, one time, never again, it got 500 miles and never seated the rings. Never again for me.
synthetic oil that is
Yes, breaking it in with Mobile1. The engine probably has a total of one hour of run time on it. The engine builder recommended the oil. Should I switch?
Yes, breaking it in with Mobile1. The engine probably has a total of one hour of run time on it. The engine builder recommended the oil. Should I switch?
A lubrication expert where I worked before retirement once told me that a new/rebuilt engine should use dino for breakin but that syn had too much lubricatrion quality to allow new parts to wear in properly. He said one could switch to synthetic after 2-3k miles.
That was over 10 years ago so maybe oil formula and metallurgy has changed but I broke my last rebuild in on dino oil just to be sure that the rings would seat properly.
A lubrication expert where I worked before retirement once told me that a new/rebuilt engine should use dino for breakin but that syn had too much lubricatrion quality to allow new parts to wear in properly. He said one could switch to synthetic after 2-3k miles.
That was over 10 years ago so maybe oil formula and metallurgy has changed but I broke my last rebuild in on dino oil just to be sure that the rings would seat properly.
I have a degree in metallurgy (metals technology) with 33 years of experience dealing with metals. Not a damn thing has changed. Synthetic oil is still synthetic, not fossil. Yes, change it. Don't put it back in until at least 4-5000.
Don't let anybody ever tell you, again that too much oil is ok, it'll just puke it out. No offense to anyone, I deal with 1500+HP engines, and that's not a good thing, PERIOD.
I have a degree in metallurgy (metals technology) with 33 years of experience dealing with metals. Not a damn thing has changed. Synthetic oil is still synthetic, not fossil. Yes, change it. Don't put it back in until at least 4-5000.
Don't let anybody ever tell you, again that too much oil is ok, it'll just puke it out. No offense to anyone, I deal with 1500+HP engines, and that's not a good thing, PERIOD.
BBTank
How would I be able to tell if I did damage to the engine?
I just looked at the instructions my engine builder gave me. It states to use Mobile1 AFTER break-in period. Stupid me! So the extra 2.5 qts I ran through were mixed in with the original 5 or 6 which were most likely not Mobile1.
You'd have to have the very first filter you had on the motor at fire up. Cut the top off with a nonabrasive cutter, similar to a can opener. Then you can inspect the inside of the "can" and the filter pleats for any foreign matter. If ya don't have that, you can drop the oil pan and check for foreign material.
"puke it out" is about right.. out your front seal, rear seal, air breather..
just pull your drain plug and put it back in real quick, dont have to drain it all. You know much mess just a 1/2qt makes under your hood?
A lubrication expert where I worked before retirement once told me that a new/rebuilt engine should use dino for breakin but that syn had too much lubricatrion quality to allow new parts to wear in properly. He said one could switch to synthetic after 2-3k miles.
When I bought my wife her new Sante Fe in 2005 I wanted to run Mobil 1 in it and asked the Service Manager there about it. He told me to run it on conventional oil for the first 6,000 miles. After that I could switch and there would not be a problem. I now run it on Valvoline SynPower full synthetic with no problems at all.