Head Bolts??????
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 548
Likes: 1
From: Victoria VA
Head Bolts??????
I'm trying to get everything together to do my heads,cam,intake and carb swap. My questions are can I use my stock 77 head bolts on my L98 aluminum heads and does anyone know what length push rods I will need?Also if anyone knows the torque for the L98 aluminum heads. I'm looking forward to finding out just how much better my 77 is going to run.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
Likes: 778
From: Forked River NJ
You assume right. The stock bolts will cut into the aluminum head. Get a set of ARP bolts that are for aluminum heads. They come with hardened washers.
Pushrod length will vary from engine to engine and head to head and rocker arm to rocker arm. You will have to mock it up and see what you need to be sure.
Pushrod length will vary from engine to engine and head to head and rocker arm to rocker arm. You will have to mock it up and see what you need to be sure.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Freeport FL
Re Pushrod length
Search for my thread on pushrod length or PM me...
If you want to do it right you need to get an adjustable pushrod to check....for proper length. If it comes out to the same as your old PR length, great, otherwise you might wanna get new PRs, they dont cost that much. Comp sells them in .05 increments, no extra charge.
There is just no other way to tell...with the variables of blocks being decked, heads being milled, gasket thickness, blah, blah, blah.
Its a bit of a PITA, but well worth the peace of mind that ensues. I've got way too much $ involved in my build to take a chance on a $100 part at this point. I actually used a maginifying glass to inspect how my rockers rolled across the valve tip as the engine went around.
Oh and you need checking springs too...but they are cheap too.
Are you using roller rockers? I have some pretty good pics from when I set mine up that I can email you.
If you want to do it right you need to get an adjustable pushrod to check....for proper length. If it comes out to the same as your old PR length, great, otherwise you might wanna get new PRs, they dont cost that much. Comp sells them in .05 increments, no extra charge.
There is just no other way to tell...with the variables of blocks being decked, heads being milled, gasket thickness, blah, blah, blah.
Its a bit of a PITA, but well worth the peace of mind that ensues. I've got way too much $ involved in my build to take a chance on a $100 part at this point. I actually used a maginifying glass to inspect how my rockers rolled across the valve tip as the engine went around.
Oh and you need checking springs too...but they are cheap too.
Are you using roller rockers? I have some pretty good pics from when I set mine up that I can email you.
Last edited by Droshki; Jan 20, 2009 at 11:22 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
I will say this for you one more time. I mentioned in your Swapping Heads, Cam, Intake & Holley 650 post, u need to check p-rod length whenever you replace the heads for head work. All you need is a $15 p-rod checker from ProForm or Moroso [U]and an old push rod[/U].
I have an adjustable p-rod and it's a major PIA to use.
The adjustable checkers are really to be used when the engine is out of the car on an engine stand. I burned more than one day trying an adjustable checker and then used my $15 checker from ProForm and had the job done in 5 min.
If you really what to get confused then go ahead and spend $50 for an adj p-rod checker. Then spend days slowly rotating the crank until u think u can see when the vlv moves.
Have a ball.
Good catch on the bolts. Yes the aluminum will produce galvanic corrosion with some steels used in the washers (and bolts). Check with a supplier like ARP before bolt purchase - u may only need the correct washers.
cardo0
I have an adjustable p-rod and it's a major PIA to use.
The adjustable checkers are really to be used when the engine is out of the car on an engine stand. I burned more than one day trying an adjustable checker and then used my $15 checker from ProForm and had the job done in 5 min.If you really what to get confused then go ahead and spend $50 for an adj p-rod checker. Then spend days slowly rotating the crank until u think u can see when the vlv moves.
Have a ball.Good catch on the bolts. Yes the aluminum will produce galvanic corrosion with some steels used in the washers (and bolts). Check with a supplier like ARP before bolt purchase - u may only need the correct washers.
cardo0
Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Freeport FL
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...y_Code=PSHRDTL
$13.52
PM if you need help on use, but a web search will show up plenty of tech articles on the subject.
$13.52
PM if you need help on use, but a web search will show up plenty of tech articles on the subject.
Last edited by Droshki; Jan 21, 2009 at 09:25 AM.
