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Hi,
I'm replacing the automatic transmission filter on my 82. Which pan gasket type is less prone to leak, the cork type or black rubber-like material?
Thanks,
Tom
Go with the cork and use no sealant. Hammer the pan rail flat at the bolt holesand don't over tighten, work up to 10-13 ft lbs torque in several passes. You might come back a week later and re-torque them.
Go with the cork and use no sealant. Hammer the pan rail flat at the bolt holesand don't over tighten, work up to 10-13 ft lbs torque in several passes. You might come back a week later and re-torque them.
. Also, if you have ever installed one of Fel-Pro's one piece oil pan gaskets, they come with some cool blue studs that screw into the corner bolt holes. They allow you to push the gasket up onto the studs where they are held by tabs. Then push the pan up onto the studs.
From there, the gasket and pan are lined up and it's very easy to start all the bolts. When they are all started, you can remove the blue plastic studs, and insert the bolts. Then tighten as mentioned above.
Go with the cork and use no sealant. Hammer the pan rail flat at the bolt holesand don't over tighten, work up to 10-13 ft lbs torque in several passes. You might come back a week later and re-torque them.
Hi,
I'm replacing the automatic transmission filter on my 82. Which pan gasket type is less prone to leak, the cork type or black rubber-like material?
Thanks,
Tom
I've had great success with TCI's Neopreme gaskets, no sealant, 15 ft lbs torque. The rubber ones tend to squeeze or push right out as you torque the bolts!
Worth a look??
Last edited by cherrybombc3; Jan 22, 2009 at 01:16 PM.
They may have come out with some better version of cork gaskets, laminated or something I have seen like that....but histerically they have been home of the leak....so much so that I reverted to nothing but black RTV on a super clean and oil free surface, did them that way for years, and never a problem straighten the pan lip for sure, and tighten down with a zip gun/3/8 air ratchet....
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