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anybody want to change wires on 76 vette and afraid? The front two cylinders on each side actually have the wires through the motor mounts and behind heat shields. What we found was that by removing the oil pan you can actually get these shields down and pull the wires through. (must remove boot from plug to fit it between block and motor mount). The biggest headache is the exhaust crosses the pan and the power cylinder does too..............had to remove both also. Done and happy i did...........................
That is good but why not just purchase plug wires you can cut to fit and place the wires on loom supports and you wont have to do so much work. The wire pattern is the same for my 79 with wires running through the motor mounts. I don't know why the factory did not do that in the first place.
I found luck by removing the boot on the coil end of the old wire, then tying a length of STRONG but fine string to the brass connector. From there, I GENTLY pulled the plug end of the old wire, allowing the string to follow and later serve as a "fish" wire to pull the new wire back through the correct routing. Works best if one person is working from above and another from below, ensuring the routing doesn't get hung up. For sure, if I had to do it again, I'd do it the same exact way. Hope this helps someone as much as it did me.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
The engines on our C3's are relatively easy to work on compared to new cars. I believe that the spark plug routing was the only oriental design snafu we have in our engine bay
I'm keeping mine all original too, therefore, I have all (upper and lower) the ignition shielding on the engine. It's only the shielding that makes the routing of plug wires so challenging.
I'm keeping mine all original too, therefore, I have all (upper and lower) the ignition shielding on the engine. It's only the shielding that makes the routing of plug wires so challenging.
So, is it possible to route the wires along the lower edge of the valve covers and use wire looms? I would like to ditch the heat shields on my '80. IMO, I think it would look a lot simpler and cleaner. Who has done this to their plug wires?
Speaking of plug wires, what is the "secret" to "assembling" new boots on wire kits that you cut to length? Special tool? I want to re-route via looms for a cleaner appearance and keep the wires away from the headers/heat but getting the metal inserts and boots on is a PIA. I must be missing something here.
I found luck by removing the boot on the coil end of the old wire, then tying a length of STRONG but fine string to the brass connector. From there, I GENTLY pulled the plug end of the old wire, allowing the string to follow and later serve as a "fish" wire to pull the new wire back through the correct routing. Works best if one person is working from above and another from below, ensuring the routing doesn't get hung up. For sure, if I had to do it again, I'd do it the same exact way. Hope this helps someone as much as it did me.
I have used this method on numerous Corvettes and it works well. I of course remove the V-shields on the block, but once you remove the distributor boots (or use a universal set you can cut to length) they slip behind the motor mounts quite easily. A little silicone sprayed in the boot allows you to remove them easily and reinstall them as well. When reinstalling the V-shields be careful not to pinch either of the wires. The shields are sharp and can cut into the wire if they get pinched between the shield and the block.
It does of course help to have the vehicle raised on ramps or jackstands. I have also found changing the plugs in a later model C3 to be easiest if you remove two on each side from above and two from underneath.
From: Into the Mystic And yet, despite the look on my face, you're still talking TN
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '25
I've been putting this off for 3 years now. Was wondering if they could somehow could be fished through from the old wire. Guess I'll order those wires, now. Thanks, guys
Speaking of plug wires, what is the "secret" to "assembling" new boots on wire kits that you cut to length? Special tool? I want to re-route via looms for a cleaner appearance and keep the wires away from the headers/heat but getting the metal inserts and boots on is a PIA. I must be missing something here.
me too! i have delco wires and HEI boots ready to be assembled but its a very tight fit to where i think i wont be able to get em together. ive read here to use die electric grease to put them together.
anyone have an easy solution?
me too! i have delco wires and HEI boots ready to be assembled but its a very tight fit to where i think i wont be able to get em together. ive read here to use die electric grease to put them together.
anyone have an easy solution?
These are exactly what I bought for my '73. I may even have used some dielectric grease on them once I cut the wires and attached the ends. A bit of dielectric grease will definitely inhibit any long term corrosion between the ends and the distributor cap contacts.
Once cut to the correct length, I spray a bit of silicone into the boot, slip the wire through the boot (distributor end) so the wire is sticking out, attach the metal clip and slide it back gently into the boot. This allows me to cut the wires to a perfect length so I'm not trying to hide extra wire under the shielding. Using a bit of silicone spray on the ends along with the silicone boot allows everything to slip together with minimal risk of tearing the boots.
I like to use the HEI wires even on the non-HEI distributors because it has the silicone outer cover and is 8mm vice the standard 7mm. It's a tad tight in the looms, but goes together well. Since the wire (usually gray) is completely hidden under the shielding it can't be seen either.