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The proper torque for heads is dependent on the material in the heads and the brand of bolts you intend to use. Most head manufacturers specify the bolts to be used and the torque to be applied, as well as the method of torque application (dry, lubricated, staged torque application, etc. etc.). For best results, follow the head mfgrs. recommendations. If you decide to 'do your own thing', at least get head bolts made for attaching aluminum to steel.
The proper torque for heads is dependent on the material in the heads and the brand of bolts you intend to use. Most head manufacturers specify the bolts to be used and the torque to be applied, as well as the method of torque application (dry, lubricated, staged torque application, etc. etc.). For best results, follow the head mfgrs. recommendations. If you decide to 'do your own thing', at least get head bolts made for attaching aluminum to steel.
I'm assuming the OP has the correct bolts with matching washers then using dry torque is one option, coating the threads with light oil is another option, as the oil will increase the torque by 5 lbs.
Now, if the bolts are ARP, then it is paramount that moly lube supplied by ARP be used as well as their recommended torque specs, which can be found on their web site.
Actually, you need to use more torque for dry bolts than for lubricated bolts (assuming you are using the same bolts). What you are trying to accomplish is to get the bolts into a plastic deformation state..or a specific amount of 'stretch' in the bolt...for best retention. If you lube the threads, that point of 'stretch' will be reached with less effort--or lower torque. Should you apply 'dry' torque specs to a lubed bolt, you might just pop the head off of it.