Rear trail arm shims
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Use the SS shims if you can. The shim has a slot on one end and a hole on the other. The slotted end goes on the TA Pivot Bolt and the end with the hole rests at the bottom of the TA Pocket in the frame, this is all done with the TA and Pivot Bolt in the frame. There is a hole thru the frame that lines up with the hole in the shims, there is a long cotter pin that goes thru them to hold them in place.
When you took it apart you should have paid some attention to the the shim thickness on the TA's, if you didn't, its not the end of the world. You need the weight on the rear end so put a couple blocks under the back wheels to get some ground clearence. Line the rear wheels up paralell with each other and the centerline of the car by placing the required number of shims on either side of the TA Pivot and tighten the Pivot bolt. This is a ROUGH alignment, so it still needs to go on a rack.
When you took it apart you should have paid some attention to the the shim thickness on the TA's, if you didn't, its not the end of the world. You need the weight on the rear end so put a couple blocks under the back wheels to get some ground clearence. Line the rear wheels up paralell with each other and the centerline of the car by placing the required number of shims on either side of the TA Pivot and tighten the Pivot bolt. This is a ROUGH alignment, so it still needs to go on a rack.
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Kansas
I use a laser pointer and shine it on a ruler set against the front bearing hubs. That sets thrust angle. Then you need to set the toe, I have a set of toe plates, you can use two straight edges set against the rear tires and two tape measures one one the front of the tires and one on the rear a slight amont of toe in is better than rear toe out.
Then recheck the thrust angle make sure both tires are pointed close to the same. It takes a while to get it right the 1st time. Or you can just get it close and take it to an alignment shop with a mechanic that is familiar with C-3's.
Then recheck the thrust angle make sure both tires are pointed close to the same. It takes a while to get it right the 1st time. Or you can just get it close and take it to an alignment shop with a mechanic that is familiar with C-3's.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
...This is a ROUGH alignment, so it still needs to go on a rack....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,000
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, Mn USA
Hopefully you still have your originals packs together and labbelled what location they came from.
If you have that, you can take your new SS shims and match the thickness of the old ones after you clean the olds ones up on a wirewheel to determine the original thickness.
The shims get installed with the thicker shims to the outsides and the thin shims in the center of each pack. Drive in the last thick shim on the outside of the pack away from the trailing arm bushing so you dont damage the bushing. It should be tight enough that you should have to use a hammer to drive the last shim in. If you can do it with your hand-finger pressing it in, then it is not tight enough and you will get the wandering rear end feel going down the road.
Your new SS shims should also get a taper on the upper edges to ease the install of the shims as you drive them in.
It's easy to do all this, but just a little time consuming and methodical.
If you dont have your original packs recorded, I suppose you split the difference and center the trailing arm just so you can get to a good alignment shop.
If you have that, you can take your new SS shims and match the thickness of the old ones after you clean the olds ones up on a wirewheel to determine the original thickness.
The shims get installed with the thicker shims to the outsides and the thin shims in the center of each pack. Drive in the last thick shim on the outside of the pack away from the trailing arm bushing so you dont damage the bushing. It should be tight enough that you should have to use a hammer to drive the last shim in. If you can do it with your hand-finger pressing it in, then it is not tight enough and you will get the wandering rear end feel going down the road.
Your new SS shims should also get a taper on the upper edges to ease the install of the shims as you drive them in.
It's easy to do all this, but just a little time consuming and methodical.
If you dont have your original packs recorded, I suppose you split the difference and center the trailing arm just so you can get to a good alignment shop.
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 228
Likes: 1
From: Warwick New York
Here is the webpage for Duntov Motor Corp Alignment school. It tells you how to align your rear and front end.
http://www.fastcorvette.com/AlignmentSchool.htm
http://www.fastcorvette.com/AlignmentSchool.htm
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