Wondering if anyone has ever had this problem before: When I turn the key to accessory, the idiot lots come on and the A/C blower-fan turns on low speed (1977 vette) like it is supposed to. Then when I turn the key to start the motor, everything goes quite...i.e. the lights go out, fan stops, and of course the motor does not start. I tested the batter and it is good. This has happened to me several times before, but it is almost like it corrects itself somehow. I am not sure if it is the ignition switch or what? Any ideas?

 

has the ignition ever been messed with? sounds like you have the two wires switched somehow weather it does it internally with the ignition switch itself or bubba was there and wired it up wrong

 

no...I have been rebuilding/replacing many parts. Like I said, this had happened before...can anyone explain what happens when the key is turned? When I turn the key, I an see a rod on the right side of the column move. what is that rod attached to?

 

The rod that is moving up and down on the steering column is connected to a switch which completes the starter circuit.
Due to wear it will not move enough to depress switch and starter circuit will not be energized.
Adjustment of the old switch at bottom of rod should solve your problem.
I think everything else you have described is normal when turning the ignition switch.
Hope this solves your problem, it did on my '77
Good Luck

 

How do I get to the switch...it disappears into the column?

 

It has been awhile since I repaired the problem. If my memory is correct I think I extended the rod by changing the angle of the curve in the center.
If you have a Dr Rebuild catalog it is located on page 157 in a blown-up picture of the standard steering column (item X) or if the column is a telescopic the picture is on pg 158.
Sorry, I can't send the pictures , possibly someone has them available.
Hope this helps

Jim Shea has many write-ups and and answers your question....Do a search on Jim Shea and I sure you will get your answer

 

I am out of options trying to figure this thing out. I triple checked all of the wires/grounds to the starter. I had my son turn the key while I measured the volts at the starter to see if it dropped when turning the key..and it did not. I even tried to jump the battery...that didn't work either. Is anyone aware of a type of wire/connection that is tied to the ignition switch that when I turn the key all power is lost and of course the car does not start. As a reminder -- when I turn the key to accessory all electrics power up normally, only when I try to start the car does everything die.

 

Drop the column down to get to the ignition switch near the bottom topside of the column. Undo the bolts at the firewall too.
It is held onto the column by 2 small screws.
It is a slide switch that the rod fits into.
You can operate it by sliding it with a screwdriver into all the positions.
This will test whether it is the switch at fault or possibly the sector/rack gear behind the key cylinder.

BTW, I have been driving my 77 for 6 months with the switch hanging and using a screwdriver to operate it. Be careful of the steering wheel lock when testing like this.

I'm sure Jim Shea will give you better input.

 

From your description it sure sounds as if you have a loose wire. Did you check the wires on your starter solenoid?

Do you have a standard (non-adjustable) steering column or a T&T?
The two columns have different ignition switches. The T&T ignition switch operates to the START position when that rod that you refered to pulls up toward the steering wheel. The standard column goes into the START position when the rod pushes down toward the engine.

The ignition switch can be adjusted by dropping the steering column down from the dash. Remove the two nuts down by the floor and then remove the two vertical screws that hold the column up into the dash. You will then have access to the switch.

Make sure that you disconnect the battery when adjusting the switch.

The ignition key positions are START, RUN, OFF, OFF-LOCK, & ACC
Rotate your ignition key all the way CCW until it stops. Do not trigger the small lever up near the key. That will place your steering column in the OFF posiiton. Remove the ignition switch from the top of the steeirng column. Use a small rod to find the START position. You will feel the switch spring you out of START and into the RUN position. Now use the rod to move the switch to the next detent position. That will be the OFF position. Now you have the switch in the OFF position and the column in the OFF position. Reinstall the switch on the column being careful not to change the column or the switch positions as you reattach the switch.

Jim

 

Along with the other suggestions, if the tilt housing is loose or broken, it will cause the no start condition. Pick the steering column up and push in while turning the key. See if that works.

 

OK...thanks for the suggestions. I have a telecsope and tilt wheel. Jim I e-mailed you last night...so disregard that one. I will do as both of you suggested and report back later this evening. One more thing: How does resetting the ign switch change things; I mean can the switch come out of adjustment. Also, I see two bolts holding the column shaft to the firewall...and two bolts holding the steering column up to the dash...what other bolts am i looking to disconnect? Do I need to decouple the rag or anything in the engine bay? I also think there maybe some truth to the tilt mechanism affecting the ign circuit. Like I said, in the past I have experienced this before, but by the end of the day after finishing whatever work I was doing, the car would correct itself and start. I think I am making progress -- I think it is definitely linked to the ign switch or something near-by.

 

I have the column out and found a thick purple wire that attaches to the ign switch burned half way through. I am going to repair this wire and see if that helps. I'll keep eveyone in the loop.

 

that sounds promising

 

come on Tycor Im dying to find out the how this play ends. I have the exact same issue going on right now.

 

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY 77 THERE IS A PLUG ON THE FIREWALL KINDA BEHIND THE DIST AND ABOVE IF IT COME LOSE IT WILL NOT START. WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY EVERYTHING GOES DEAD. LOOK AT THIS AND MAKE SURE IT IS CONNECTED. I DROVE MYSELF CRAZY UNTIL I FOUND IT WAS NOT CONNECTED COMPLETELY. PLUG IT IN AND SHE FIRED RIGHT UP.

 

Victoria Vette do you have a picture of where you are talking about? Im having all the symptoms here also. Im pulling my hair out.

 

No but I can take a picture of it tomorrow and post it if you think it will help. Did you do some work under the hood before thus happened? It took me a while to find it I looked at everything key switch, starter fuse box you name it then I happen to find it while I was chasing down every wire from the fuse box to the starter to the alt etc. It took me several hrs to find it. I hope it is what is wrong with your it sure sounds like it. A easy fix to a hard problem to find. I tried just about everything listed in this post before I found it even fuseable links etc..

 

Yes...I did fix the problem. I ended up buying a remote starter switch from NAPA and hooking directly from the batt to the starter, and the car turned over; then I new it was not the starter. I removed the steering column, this took about 2 hours because I had never done it before. I repaired some old, slightly singed wires near the ign switch (but that was not the problem). I bought a new ign switch from NAPA ($12.95) and it fired right up. I am still trying to put everything back together. In the process of removing the column I was connecting and disconnecting the batt while I tested the switch. Short story...I ended up shorting out the tach circuit board (which I had just replaced 8 months ago). I also broke something the turn signal level...the mechanism that you pull to switch your high and low beam headlights. When I pulled the column out, it was a tight fit against the drivers seat and the level must have pushed hard against it and broke one of the plastic gears in the column...a pain in the a**. Just be careful when you pull the column out...now that I have done it...I could probably do it in 20 minutes with no damage. Good luck!

 

Hi all... I can't say enough about the wealth of info. on this forum. I have 4 vettes and have found answers to ALL questions. Thanks!
My 79 quit as I backed it out of the garage yesterday. Same symptoms as you are experiencing. I pulled the starter got it tested(ok). Then I looked here in the forum. Could have saved myself some time and mess.
VictoriaVette can you post pics of the connector by the distributor. I was messing around with the distributor shielding when I put new plugs in. I might have bumped the plug.
TyCor did you have to remove the column or just drop it down? Any pics? I think I'll start with a new ignition switch for 12 bucks.
Thanks again,
Mike

 

I will get over to my shop tomorrow and take a picture and post it for you.