Half-Shaft Installation
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,659
Likes: 7
From: Katy (Houston) TX
CI 7-8 Veteran
I just posted this last month. It is a little clearer than the method on the Duntov site and does require taking your brake calipers off but it's very easy.
My method which I learned from Mike (tracdogg2) is similar to the string method in the Duntov link but a little easier (if you already have your rear slightly apart....you'll see). This worked great for me because I was reassembling my rear end and I already had the brake calipers off and the spring wasn't attached yet.
Wheels and brake calipers need to come off. Pull rotors off and turn them around and bolt them back up. You'll now have a flat surface that's protruded out just a bit from the wheel well. Next, jack the trailing arm assembly up FROM THE ROTOR. This is important because it puts the correct stresses on the strut rods and half shafts. Jack it up to the point where the half shafts are parallel to the ground. At this point you'll set your camber but that's not what we're here to discuss....so, moving on once camber is adjusted (I set mine to zero for drag racing). Now to set toe-in. Take your string and tie it off in the back of the trailing arm and string it around so that it goes across the front surface of the rotor (which is on backwards and sticking out). Tie off the front of the string to something (I used a jackstand) and situate the object so the front of the string just touches the front side of the rear rotor. Now, measure the distance from the string to the frame at 2 points and you want 1/8" difference (closer at the front obviously). You want your 2 points to be the front door seam and the rear door seam. Adjust shims as needed and make sure both sides are the same so it tracks straight.
Here's a picture when I was doing it but note I was doing it wrong in this picture becuase I was jacking the suspension up via the trailing arm. I should have (and subsequently did) jacked it up from the bottom of the rotor.
My method which I learned from Mike (tracdogg2) is similar to the string method in the Duntov link but a little easier (if you already have your rear slightly apart....you'll see). This worked great for me because I was reassembling my rear end and I already had the brake calipers off and the spring wasn't attached yet.
Wheels and brake calipers need to come off. Pull rotors off and turn them around and bolt them back up. You'll now have a flat surface that's protruded out just a bit from the wheel well. Next, jack the trailing arm assembly up FROM THE ROTOR. This is important because it puts the correct stresses on the strut rods and half shafts. Jack it up to the point where the half shafts are parallel to the ground. At this point you'll set your camber but that's not what we're here to discuss....so, moving on once camber is adjusted (I set mine to zero for drag racing). Now to set toe-in. Take your string and tie it off in the back of the trailing arm and string it around so that it goes across the front surface of the rotor (which is on backwards and sticking out). Tie off the front of the string to something (I used a jackstand) and situate the object so the front of the string just touches the front side of the rear rotor. Now, measure the distance from the string to the frame at 2 points and you want 1/8" difference (closer at the front obviously). You want your 2 points to be the front door seam and the rear door seam. Adjust shims as needed and make sure both sides are the same so it tracks straight.
Here's a picture when I was doing it but note I was doing it wrong in this picture becuase I was jacking the suspension up via the trailing arm. I should have (and subsequently did) jacked it up from the bottom of the rotor.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 699
Likes: 3
From: Millersville, MD
New Half Shafts are installed. They went up easier then coming down. My only suggestion would be to check the tq on the inner u-bolts again after you set the rear end back down on the ground. I used ramps. A couple of the screws on both sides needed to be re-tightened. Thanks for all the help.
