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OK, I have new half-shafts complete with flange and spicer u-joints already attached. Is it as simple as removing the old and installing the new? Any tricks or suggestions prior to removal and installation? I'm curious about tq settings and things to know before I take on this project...
It's not that difficult as long as you take your time and work safe. Some suggestions would be to mark your strut rod camber setting, as you will need to turn this to push yourTrailing arm out to allow the clearance to drop the half shaft Pretty straight forward after that. Check your manual for torque specs on the bolts. If you do not have one PM me and i'll look them up for you.
Just did mine.
No need to remove anything but the half shafts.
Put the back up on jack stands under the frame. Remove the french locks and bolts on the hub. Then remove the caps on the differental side. You should be able to remove the inside of the half shaft from the diferential if you get the orientation right. If not, turn it 90 degrees and you'll see how it comes out.
Dont remember torque spec, but they're in the manual.
Oh yeah, and using new french locks is a good idea.
You will need to do a wheel alignment afterwards as the new shafts may be longer or shorter than the old ones. If so, the is wiill affect both toe-in and camber.
Just did mine.
No need to remove anything but the half shafts.
Put the back up on jack stands under the frame. Remove the french locks and bolts on the hub. Then remove the caps on the differental side. You should be able to remove the inside of the half shaft from the diferential if you get the orientation right. If not, turn it 90 degrees and you'll see how it comes out.
Dont remember torque spec, but they're in the manual.
Oh yeah, and using new french locks is a good idea.
Awesome idea's and suggestions. Afterwards, can I take it anywhere to get a rearend alignment done or should it be done by someone who knows c3's?
I replaced the u-joints and camber rod on my 75. I had pre checked several of the tire shops to find out if they knew how to do a rear wheel alignment. I found one that met my satisfaction. I asked them how they adjust the rear, and when the person told me they need to put shims in the rear trailing arm I knew I was on the right track.
I also replaced one of the trailing arms, that is why I needed the shims. If you dont need a toe-in or toe-out adjustment, and just need the camber, then most shops should be capable of that. It is pretty easy.
There is a good thread somewhere in the archives about doing a rear wheel alignment at home with simple tools. I read over some old threads recently, and some say 75 lbs and some say 90 lbs for the torque spec. I did 75 with the french locks and feel pretty confident with the security of the assembly. I just did this because I had previously assembled the half shafts with only lock washers and thread locker. BAD IDEA, as all the bolts had worked loose in the two years and about 6000 miles since I did the job!
...and don't put the car in drive with the motor running when it is on jack stands, lol.
Yea, that is a good idea....lol. It looks like I'll need to order new french locks and check the strut rod bushings. Guess this project will wait a little bit until warmer and funds are available again. Not to mention, finding a professional to do the rearend alignment. Thanks for all the help...I'll be back at this post again when ready...
--Duntov Motors has a step-by-step at-home alignment procedure on their web site. I am going to try it when I put my '68 rear back together here shortly.
--If you decide to go with adjustable strut rods, you can buy heim joint rod-ends and pre-threaded tubing from just about any racing parts house, many of them sell on E-bay. You will have to make or buy spacers as the heim joints are not as wide as the stock strut rod ends, but you will get better handling for a much cheaper price. I have seen a couple threads on this topic on the Forum.
--Each french lock will lock two bolt heads, so a car set is four.
I had the same issue, With new grade 8 nyloc nuts I did the german spec.. Gudntight I couldn't get my torq. wrench in there either.
If you try that duntov alignment, good luck. I read the damn thing at least 10 times and can't make sence of a couple things that were worded unclearly (which were important steps). Pictures of the measurements and the geometry points could have saved a thousand words on that sheet.
I'm still looking for a better (clearer) version if anyone has one...
Yeah, there's not much room under there. I have no idea how you're supposed to get a socket on those. Maybe with the stub axle out?
Just feel 'em in. Go in a criss cross pattern and gradually torque them down. 15 lbs isn't much.
I will say they actually were easier to install then remove for me. I suppose I will just guesstimate on 15 ft lbs. I'm trying to locate a french lock since I destroyed one of them last night. I never did have to remove or adjust the strut rod during this process. Although any rear sway bar has to be disconnected for the trailing arm to move so that you can remove the half shaft. I also recommend stainless steel french locks which are apparently stronger. I wish I knew this earlier. Gary (GTR) helped me out quite a bit. It was fun doing it and I learned a couple of things. Think I'll do strut rods next but probably will wait seeings how I have not even started her up this year yet. I'm also in the process of installing BB 1.6 Roller Rockers and Studs.
Last edited by Vette79C3; Apr 9, 2009 at 01:04 PM.