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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 02:32 PM
  #21  
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Lol...thx Scott! Sorry, I want to know everyone's opinion. It's good to know this new setup sounds a lot better. I don't want to be a bother. However, I have read so many things my brain needs a rest. That sounds pretty good...I think I'm am getting close to my 'final answer'.

Last edited by ShakeyrayStingray; Feb 14, 2009 at 02:34 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 03:06 PM
  #22  
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Not sure its in your budget and a bit overkill but a Callies crank will put those SCAT cranks to shame, they run $655, forged in Japan, not China and Callies quality is top notch. These guys offer packages as well.

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/compstar-cranks.html

Also be aware that some piston mfgrs quote comp ratio at zero deck height and not the production .025" below deck so verify with the piston mfgr. Again, the IK200s use a fel pro 1206 intake gasket which is huge and you could have some mismatch or fitment issues with the IK200s. Call and confirm your selection with Brodix.

Last edited by Scott Marzahl; Feb 14, 2009 at 04:23 PM.
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 04:21 PM
  #23  
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St. Jude Donor '11, '17
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I still think it's overkill going forged, except for the pistons - they should be, however it is your decision & you should feel comfortable with the finished engine. If you go non-roller then you really have to pay attention to the oil & zinc. I do like the idea of getting a roller truck block, but your Dad's block will work if you don't want rollers. I agree that solids are not as big a pain as popular thought has them being.
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 04:58 PM
  #24  
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As an engine builder who does this every day I am not a fan of cast cranks and if I am going to spend some ones money on a nicely machined block and good rods and pistons, Heads ETC. a 180 dollar crank is not my first choice.

When balancing a crank a drilling a cast crank its like cutting through butter compared to a nice 4340 crank!!

He is a quote I did on another site
Originally Posted by CNC BLOCKS
Probably about 8 years ago we tried to run the Scat cast cranks in our 2 barrel cirlce track engines appox. 370 horse and in one season we saw 5 broken ones and a other shop near me saw the same results with broken cranks.

Went to the PRI Show and told Tom Leib the problem I had with there cranks and he saids I was the first to ever tell hime that, My friend that broke some near me went at told Tom the same thing I did and he told him this was the first he had heard of it and Bob pointed to me off to the side and and Mr. Leib did not know what to say.

Since then both of us have gone to forged cranks and so far no broken ones in the last 8 years.

The Callies Compstar for around 650 dollars is a dam good choice.

Here is a link from another site
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/engi...ted-crank.html
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 05:46 PM
  #25  
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So in other words Carl, just say no to cheap So Cal cranks
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 09:11 PM
  #26  
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compare this head to the Brodix
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 09:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by BLOCKMAN
As an engine builder who does this every day I am not a fan of cast cranks and if I am going to spend some ones money on a nicely machined block and good rods and pistons, Heads ETC. a 180 dollar crank is not my first choice.

When balancing a crank a drilling a cast crank its like cutting through butter compared to a nice 4340 crank!!

He is a quote I did on another site
I certainly have nothing bad to say about forged, my kit is forged, but the factory still runs cast with good results. For racing - never, but for street sure. A factory balanced kit should take care of the balancing issues. My Eagle kit came balanced & my machinist reported that it was spot on. Blockman, don't perceive this as questioning your years of experience, I'm not, but this new member may not be able to afford forged internals at this time. That should not preclude his enjoyment of this sport.

I wish like hell that Dart had come out with the SHP a couple of years earlier. I was thinking my next engine would be a LSx, but now I'm no longer so sure.
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by finallygot1
That may be the same head. Look at the sidebar, all the repair parts are Brodix.
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 10:13 PM
  #29  
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Don't discount the roller block idea as quickly as you have. A roller cam will give you 50 HP and similar torque with a wider torque band with the same streetability in a 10 to 1 motor with the brodix heads. That is a huge difference.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 02:27 AM
  #30  
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Well, at least now I feel like I'm getting somewhere, . Good point on those summit heads. They look just like the Brodix heads. Anyone know if there are any major differences? I agree, the parts replacement on the side shows BRO. After a quick comparison, they are the exact replacement parts. Although, I wouldn't want something that is ported less than the Brodix that appears to be the same. May have to place a phone call..

So now I have another issue(solved, but with more money, ugh)....I am very thankful that someone pointed out the performer rpm will not align with the Brodix 200cc. The power band on the performer rpm is 1500-6500 and fits under the hood if used with a low air filter. I looked up the dimensions on the weiand 8150 and it is nearly the same height. Hence, I may have to spend that extra money on a carburetor for a weiand8150 (powerband 1500-6700) instead of re-tuning that Q-jet, . It may come out better but my budget has become tight. (after you figure in the money on the heads and rotating assembly)
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 10:25 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Scott Marzahl
So in other words Carl, just say no to cheap So Cal cranks
Not really saying that but we don't use cast cranks for our builds and if a customer asks about using a cast crank we just take out back and show them some of the borken ones we have taken out and that useally changes their mind real fast.

Liberty Engine parts had 8 Eagle cast 383 external balance cranks break last year and all broke the snouts off and this did not happen at just one shop.

I have had guys call about replacing theh cast crank with a Forged crank but no one has ever called wanting to replace their forged crank with an cast one.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 10:41 AM
  #32  
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Hope I am not highjacking this thread, but I have a question for Blockman. I inherited a 350, four bolt main block with a spun main. Is this block worth having the work done to rebuild, which I understand would include align boring, or should it hit the scrap pile?

Thanks
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 10:48 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by finallygot1
Hope I am not highjacking this thread, but I have a question for Blockman. I inherited a 350, four bolt main block with a spun main. Is this block worth having the work done to rebuild, which I understand would include align boring, or should it hit the scrap pile?

Thanks
We have done quite a few repairs on blocks with spun main bearings and in most cases it does not hurt the blocks side, but it may not clean up completely if it spun really bad.

Most of the time we will try to fit an old cap up so we can just do a line hone and that runs about 185.00 dollars.

If its not cracked and sonic tests good I would keep it.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 10:56 AM
  #34  
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Now we are getting to the crux of the matter, you do have a budget

OK, this is going to fly against what I did & what a lot of guys recommend, but you are building a street engine & need to have a fun car without going broke.

1. Use Dad's block (I would prefer that you find a roller block)

2. Forget the Brodix heads, Procomps are $600 on fleabay. You don't need the flow that the bigger heads will give you. Many people run Procomps & like them. Clean up any flashing & run. They are probably much better than the fuelie heads we all had wet dreams about in past days. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350-3...Q5fAccessories

3. Get a balance Eagle cast kit on fleabay - $520. For what you are building hyperteutectic are fine, the factory uses them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EAGLE...3A1|240%3A1318

4. Get a Qjet intake of your choice & use your carb

5. Go stock on everything else, maybe a 1 qt larger pan

6. Find the 2 1/2" rams horn exhaust manifolds (fleabay)

7. After the car is running & you are enjoying it you go for things like a MSD dizzy, headers, exhaust.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 12:27 PM
  #35  
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On my 383 build I used a 73 350 4 bolt main block, steel caps, ARP studs, Forged bottom end, Retro Roller, 500+ HP plus a 150 shot (occasional use). Builder said it shouldn't be an issue. Hope he is right. For what the machine work and retro roller cost the Dart SHP block looks like a bargain. Ratflinger is probably on the right track for a budget build.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 12:32 PM
  #36  
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I have $2500 cash right now...to spend on this. If I delay another month i will have about 3200. I am a teacher so I don't have a lot coming in the summer as far as income. Hence....32/3500 will be my cap. I REALLY want the power from those 200c intakes. I run into price problems when you start talking about getting new blocks. Those are expensive, I originally was going to just rebuild the 350 (but you know how that goes, lol). So, I wouldn't mind going hydraulic or solid, even if it did cost me 50hp as opposed to roller. I see the main thing here being going roller...to be, or not to be roller.

Last edited by ShakeyrayStingray; Feb 15, 2009 at 12:38 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 12:43 PM
  #37  
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4 bolt main, Steel caps, ARP studs, Forged flat top rotating assembly, Vortec heads, Vortec Q-jet intake. Builds a solid bottom end 450 HP for now. Top end easily upgraded or will accept power adders later.
http://www.sdparts.com/catalog/engin...cHeadKits.aspx
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ine/index.html $3200 build

Last edited by 63mako; Feb 15, 2009 at 01:21 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 01:12 PM
  #38  
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Why use cheap crappy heads like procomp, you get what you pay for. If you look at the Brodix site, there is only a few cfm difference between the 200cc head and the IK180s. Since you ruled out the hi lift roller you are not going to use them to capability. Do procomps even flow air??

I'm with Carl, why risk $500 or more of block work on a cheap cast crank. Plenty of broken SCAT cast cranks, even Lars reported seeing them occuring.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 01:23 PM
  #39  
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Well, those summit heads are only $949 and are identical to those IK200's. I was leaning that way. So the IK200/summit aluminum will not work well with a hydraulic or even solid cam? Actually, my dad has a 90's model block also. However, I may 'owe' him if he gives me that one. I am very indecisive.

I was just eating thinking about why I didn't want to go roller. I had read that you can float a lifter ( i know i know Scott...stop reading other sites - that was something I read a week ago). Anyhow, I am not going to have rpm's reving that high. Hence, roller would be the way to go to increase my torque band like mentioned above. I would have more money to spend .... but I am looking to get a ring afte summer....I would be in trouble if she found out how much I am spending, LOL.

Also, I realized the rotating assembly is cheaper for the roller block. More money saved, yay. So, I am partially where I started except a roller block.

Last edited by ShakeyrayStingray; Feb 15, 2009 at 02:00 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 01:39 PM
  #40  
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Find a good machine shop take your fathers 4 bolt block down have it checked out if its ok use it.

The brodix 200 head has been used with the edlebrock rpm manifolds by forum members and by chevy high perfomamce ragazine in a manifold test. just use the rpm Q-Jet manifold #7104.

Your Q-jet has a 750 cfm capacity its plenty big enough for any reasonable rpm 383, no sense if your on a budget having to spend several hundred for another carb.

A soild flat tappit is inexpensive will make better power then a hydraulic flat tappit.

Buy a scat IB forged crank, forged pistons rotating kit, then you are pretty much set for any kind of power level you would like to have now or in the future.

Use the 200 runner head its fine for a 383, gives beathing for any future upgrades in power, you use the 180 head your stuck with it.

Last edited by Little Mouse; Feb 15, 2009 at 03:42 PM.
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