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Help : Problem after head install

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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 07:27 AM
  #1  
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Default Help : Problem after head install

have a c3 1980 l48 with header edl intake and crane cam ( enirgizer 5800)

Have installed a used edl performer rpm 6088 ,heads have tested and face polished ok by a good shop ,, also the block is ok after installed every thing back ,,started the engine for few mnts and started backfiriring and throwing fuel from the carb ,, put off the found out one pushrod broken ,had to reassemble the intake to put another push rod ,while removing the intake some water escape in the cylinder so ,now after putting every thing again ,, engine fail to start
Checked the dist and firing order ,, while checking engine oil found out that its mixed with Water the oil turned into a grayish color ,changed the oil tried to start the engine
With negative result or it started as long iam keeping my hand on ign key ,feul is ok
After that cheked the oil again still grey but less than before cud that what have been in the oil pump ??


- Cud some one tell me the correct procedure to do the alve timing step by step
- How to adjust Rocker arm
- is my gasket blown up only from few mnts used ?
- any feed back are welcome

many thanks
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 08:19 AM
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St. Jude Donor '09-'11
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So when it was running "for a few minutes" did it run properly at first the start sputtering and backfiring, or did it sputter and backfire immediately?

The water in the oil could be a problem with your head or intake gaskets (either wrong gaskets or improperly installed), or it could be a cracked block or head. It's hard to say, but I would definitely pull the heads to check it out.
The bent pushrod could have been caused by either improper adjustment or improper length pushrods for the new head.
My suspicion though is that you might not have had the cam timing set properly and one (or more) of your valves hit the top of the piston.

No matter what I would at least pull the heads and look for additional damage.
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 09:21 AM
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you need to pull it back down and start over to see whats going on. First thing I thought was valve timing. Pull the heads, intake, waterpump and timing cover. Lets see whats going on in there
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 10:43 AM
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Need some history. Did you change only the heads and reinstall intake and distributor? Did you put engine @ TDC and point rotor @ #1 when reinstalling distributor? Was the cam previously installed, if so did you mess with the timing chain at all? Did you exchange the springs on the heads with the ones that came with your cam and check installed height vs your originals? Did you check for coil bind? Did you check for valve to piston interference? Did you check valvetrain geometry and measure to make sure your pushrods were proper length? How did you adjust your valves? Was the proper torque sequence followed on the heads? Were they torqued to specs? Did you use sealer on the head bolts? Did you replace the head bolts? Did you visually make sure the head and intake gaskets matched up with all the holes and port sizes on the heads and intake before intalling? Did you check deck to piston height at TDC and what is your gasket thickness? All these steps need to be followed. This is not a bolt on power upgrade contrary to popular theory. Couldn't find your cam specs online. Heads definetly have to come back off. Check to see if you wiped your cam lobes, good possibility if you have a broken pushrod, had to be way too tight.

Last edited by 63mako; Feb 14, 2009 at 10:46 AM.
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Need some history. Did you change only the heads and reinstall intake and distributor? Did you put engine @ TDC and point rotor @ #1 when reinstalling distributor? Was the cam previously installed, if so did you mess with the timing chain at all? Did you exchange the springs on the heads with the ones that came with your cam and check installed height vs your originals? Did you check for coil bind? Did you check for valve to piston interference? Did you check valvetrain geometry and measure to make sure your pushrods were proper length? How did you adjust your valves? Was the proper torque sequence followed on the heads? Were they torqued to specs? Did you use sealer on the head bolts? Did you replace the head bolts? Did you visually make sure the head and intake gaskets matched up with all the holes and port sizes on the heads and intake before intalling? Did you check deck to piston height at TDC and what is your gasket thickness? All these steps need to be followed. This is not a bolt on power upgrade contrary to popular theory. Couldn't find your cam specs online. Heads definetly have to come back off. Check to see if you wiped your cam lobes, good possibility if you have a broken pushrod, had to be way too tight.
thanks for your input
i did chek ervey thing u mention ,, cam and timing chain was installed
last year as for the heads did not swap springs from stock head as edlbrock heads assembled with every thing springs valve studs guide plate ,yes torqued sequence as per edlelbrock manual is 65lbs ,gasket fel-pro complet set the only thing i did not change was the pushrods,rocker arms and yes they do fit correctly ,,

anyway iam going to try somthing tonight other wise ,gona remove the heads for more visual check ,,thanks
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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Must remove heads and check for damage, check cam lobes well. This will get your valves adjusted properly.
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...ch%20paper.pdf
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 03:43 PM
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thats what i was looking for ,,very helpfull doc.

thks 63mako
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 04:48 AM
  #8  
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Default update :pics after taking of the heads & cylinder









what i think is the intake gasket is not fitting well last time i changed
i used gm intake gasket
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