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From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
I bought a CVS mini starter and while I could get it to mesh correctly with shims I could not get enough engagment into the flywheel teeth. The teeth are only .5" wide and I was getting much less than .250" so I never installed it.
I used my stock L48 starter and it spins my 650HP small block with 20W50 racing oil it on a cold day no problems
I ran the same carb for about 10 years. Only I didn't even have a choke.
You have to get the piston spring kit. That way you can change how fast the rods move with minor changes in vacuum.
You can swing the little piston cover plates 1/2 over out of the way and start the motor. The pistons should instantly move with the throttle changes.
I think that I used a lighter spring. Polish the piston so it doesn't have any drag and use spray silicone on it.
I've got the spring kit and i've changed the rod, i think i'll put a lighhter spring in as well.
Originally Posted by chvet73
I am very happy with my Powermaster. Got it from Summit several years ago.
I think i will go with the powermaster or possibly the msd which looks good.
Originally Posted by MotorHead
I bought a CVS mini starter and while I could get it to mesh correctly with shims I could not get enough engagment into the flywheel teeth. The teeth are only .5" wide and I was getting much less than .250" so I never installed it.
I used my stock L48 starter and it spins my 650HP small block with 20W50 racing oil it on a cold day no problems
Looking at the msd pdf info it does not look like it has to engage the whole depth of the flywheel, I'll have another look!!!!!!
I'm still not sure why my starter has been such a problem, it doesn't have a rear brace on it and never has since i owned the car and only found out that they have them fitted sometimes, and there is a touch of movement on the starter when cranking, but not much, maybe 20 thou??
Thanks for your replies guys
This is what is great about this forum everyone is willing to help!!!!!!
Hi,
Looking to upgrade my starter for my BB to a high torque one, are there any models to stay clear of or some that you would recommend without question.
I have always had problems shimming it to correct specs as it will never mesh properly and i have taken it to a good mechanic and tried to see if they could do any better, but they said they could not shim it as close as it should be also as i said. it seems fine for a few months then i get problems where it starts to slip when cranking the engine over.
Peter
Have you been using the special starter bolts with the cross hatch knurling? The greater diameter of this knurling helps locate the starter - if plain bolts are used, there could be enough additional play to allow the starter to shift away from the ring gear.
The above comment about shimming that "they could not shim it as close as it should be" doesn't make any sense because full shims (across both bolt holes) will move the starter pinion away from the ring gear, not closer. However, a partial (short) shim between the starter and the block at the OUTER bolt hole will make it closer, but I have never come across a need to do that.
Have you been using the special starter bolts with the cross hatch knurling? The greater diameter of this knurling helps locate the starter - if plain bolts are used, there could be enough additional play to allow the starter to shift away from the ring gear.
The above comment about shimming that "they could not shim it as close as it should be" doesn't make any sense because full shims (across both bolt holes) will move the starter pinion away from the ring gear, not closer. However, a partial (short) shim between the starter and the block at the OUTER bolt hole will make it closer, but I have never come across a need to do that.
No i haven't got those bolts!!!!!!. but now i will get them
But if i dont shim at all there is at least 60 thou gap between the teeth as they are supposed to mesh. and not a max of 35 as i've read on a number of tech papers. so i beleive i would have to shim it closer????
No i haven't got those bolts!!!!!!. but now i will get them
But if i dont shim at all there is at least 60 thou gap between the teeth as they are supposed to mesh. and not a max of 35 as i've read on a number of tech papers. so i beleive i would have to shim it closer????
Get the correct bolts first and then recheck the clearance.
I can see where you are coming from with that. The bolt being bigger at the knurled end and not allowing much movement of the starter.
Thaks for all your replies
Since my latest problem with the starter i just had a chance to look at it today and found that the pinion had stuck in the ring gear as it must of been shimmed a little too close, (Not by me i hasten to add) as i had a electric fault on it a few months back and had a bit of work done on starter and had it shimmed by a mechanic. It was fine for about 6 months but last week it must of shifted and the pinion became wedged against the ring gear.
Haven't managed to get the bolts yet (Mail order) but i removed one of the shims it had 4 fitted on the outside bolt hole only at first, now only 3 fitted and it seems very quiet whilst cranking over now. Lets see how long it lasts now
I've had good success with starters from Robb McC. Rob is an all around nice guy that used to work for Mallory, erson as a mechanical design engineer. He builds the starters himself and on my Ford asked questions about flexplate location so he could set the pinion depth to match. I don't know the details but I do know he was personally involved in getting it right and it has worked well for me. Also have on on my 77 Corvette and my son has one on his 461 pontiac.
Mid 90's chevy S10 starter for large flywheel. Or mid 90's corvette LT1 starter for small flywheel. Very simple. No need for expensive aftermarket starters. And if the starter dyes in the middle of nowhere you can buy one over the counter at any parts store. I run these starters in all my cars. The LT1 starter is turning over my 540 just great.