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I haven't decided as to what fluid to use. I like dot5 besause it doesn't eat anything in the system but I know from past experience it gives a spongy pedal. I know you are obviously hard on your brakes on the road coarses, what fluid do you recomend?
Use a pressure bleeder to bleed your brakes and you won't have any of the spongy feel and bleeding will go much faster.
I haven't decided as to what fluid to use. I like dot5 besause it doesn't eat anything in the system but I know from past experience it gives a spongy pedal. I know you are obviously hard on your brakes on the road coarses, what fluid do you recomend?
The Wilwood 580 degree is a good value. under $9.00 per pint. I kind of use AP or Motul just because that is what we order cases of at the shop.
Lines......... only get eaten up by rust from water being absorbed by the brake fluid. I just bleed the brakes on regular basis or a race prrep check list item. So it is always fresh.
Just ensure that you always bleed both bleeders on each of your wilwoods
The Wilwood 580 degree is a good value. under $9.00 per pint. I kind of use AP or Motul just because that is what we order cases of at the shop.
Lines......... only get eaten up by rust from water being absorbed by the brake fluid. I just bleed the brakes on regular basis or a race prrep check list item. So it is always fresh.
Just ensure that you always beed both bleeders on you wilwoods
Thanks for the info!
Do you use the RBF 600 from Motul?
Last edited by HBZ_81_C3; Mar 4, 2009 at 11:34 AM.
Yes i have Motul in my system now. When you spend a few thousand dollars on brakes and you burn up over $ 1000 worth of tires for every two hours on the track Motul is cheap
Motul...The ultimate high performance brake fluid!
Motul RBF 600 is a 100% synthetic fluid for hydraulic-actuated brake and clutch systems. Specifically designed to resist the high temperatures of actuated (steel or carbon) racing brakes and clutch systems.
Motul RBF 600 far exceeds the standards of DOT 3 and DOT 4.
The RBF 600 container is filled with Nitrogen to increase shelf life and eliminate contamination while factory sealed.
Extremely high dry and wet boiling points help prevent vapor lock and brake fade during hard use.
EXTREME THERMAL RESISTANCE AND STABILITY: The elevated dry boiling point of RBF 600 (312°c / 593°F) enables effective braking even under the extreme conditions of competition.
VERY EFFICIENT WHEN RAINY: The very high wet boiling point (216°c / 420°F), is superior to conventional brake fluids provides a particularly efficient braking system in rain and put back the apparition of vapor lock.
I haven't decided as to what fluid to use. I like dot5 besause it doesn't eat anything in the system but I know from past experience it gives a spongy pedal. I know you are obviously hard on your brakes on the road coarses, what fluid do you recomend?
NEED HELP,PLEASE
I am changing my calipers and have drained the master cylinder.
Will I have to bleed the m.c. when I put the new calipers on? and what should iuse to flush the brake lines,just brake fluid, and how do I do it?
TIA
Rich
NEED HELP,PLEASE
I am changing my calipers and have drained the master cylinder.
Will I have to bleed the m.c. when I put the new calipers on? and what should iuse to flush the brake lines,just brake fluid, and how do I do it?
TIA
Rich
IMO, you only do a bench bleed on a new master out of a box.
As to silicone fluid. I used it for a short period of time years ago. If you were off road mud and water racer where you worried about water around the pistons from grit I could see using it
Yes i have Motul in my system now. When you spend a few thousand dollars on brakes and you burn up over $ 1000 worth of tires for every two hours on the track Motul is cheap
Motul...The ultimate high performance brake fluid!
Motul RBF 600 is a 100% synthetic fluid for hydraulic-actuated brake and clutch systems. Specifically designed to resist the high temperatures of actuated (steel or carbon) racing brakes and clutch systems.
Motul RBF 600 far exceeds the standards of DOT 3 and DOT 4.
The RBF 600 container is filled with Nitrogen to increase shelf life and eliminate contamination while factory sealed.
Extremely high dry and wet boiling points help prevent vapor lock and brake fade during hard use.
EXTREME THERMAL RESISTANCE AND STABILITY: The elevated dry boiling point of RBF 600 (312°c / 593°F) enables effective braking even under the extreme conditions of competition.
VERY EFFICIENT WHEN RAINY: The very high wet boiling point (216°c / 420°F), is superior to conventional brake fluids provides a particularly efficient braking system in rain and put back the apparition of vapor lock.
Is the synthetic fluid as hard on the components as the standard water soluble dot3 and dot4 stuff?
As to silicone fluid. I used it for a short period of time years ago. If you were off road mud and water racer where you worried about water around the pistons from grit I could see using it
With my paint... definately not worried about that. LOL
My question is regarding the Motul RBF 600 synthetic. I was questioning if this particular fluid is as harsh on the components of the system as the normal water soluble dot3-dot4 fluids. I do prefer the dot 5 for this reason, however I do know the dot5 is extremely acceptable to foaming which is not good.
I received the new tires to go with the new wheels that are required for the new brakes. Nitto 555's 285/40X18 rears and 245/40X18 fronts and yet to arrive the 315/35X18 Drag Radials for track use.
Please do not use DOT5 fluid. This (as you may know) is a silicone based fluid and once in the system will be hell to fully remove and near forever be prone to compression. All Wilwood calipers are suggested to run DOT3/4 or in the case of extreme racing use; DOT 5.1 fluid. The use of 5.1 will result in shorter operating life of the fluid but when fresh extend the temp range well into the 600f range. Needing that is unlikely for most users and it's only an exercise in spending too much money on short life product.
The Wilwood 580 degree is a good value. under $9.00 per pint. I kind of use AP or Motul just because that is what we order cases of at the shop.
Lines......... only get eaten up by rust from water being absorbed by the brake fluid. I just bleed the brakes on regular basis or a race prrep check list item. So it is always fresh.
Just ensure that you always bleed both bleeders on you wilwoods
Just for refrence Wilwood and Performance Friction 580 degree fluid is SAME as Ford brake fluid avalible at any Ford dealership. The fluid was developed in 1960's for some obscure little 24HR race over in France (as I recall Ford did pretty well there in 1966/67/68/69.)
Wilwood EXP 600 fluid has the highest dry boiling point fluid available. We have run it in Grand-Am without fade. Use the 570 for the street. And I agree with NOT using H or any other race compound for the street. Use Wilwood BP-10 pads for street driving. It is low noise, no dust ( after break-in), and has measurable better friction and fade resistance over any OE pad. And contrary to popular myth, DOT3 and DOT 4 fluids are not hard on components(except paint). A lack of maintenace without proper fluid bleeding intervals is hard on components. If the fluid in your master cylinder and/or calipers is brown, you have waited too long. For street driving, 2 years is about the max life of any fluid. For the track, we bleed before every event just enough to make sure any discolored fluid has been purged from the caliper, and then top off the master cylinders. And although DOT 5 silicone doesn't absorb mositure, any mositure that gets in the system stays suspended as water, which is harsher and boils lower that DOT3/4 that has absorbed the water vapor. That's why it's best to run DOT 3 or 4.
HBZ, what front spindles and rear axle did you order those kits for? Because they are not going to fit the stock front spindles or rear IRS on a C3.....
I was wondering about Four things in your picture.
Are those a differnt bolt pattern spindles with 1/2 inch studs?
wilwood aluminum hats comes in bolt patterns sizes. I had not seen a universal. Are you running special front wheels?
I see an adjustment ****, is for the front or the rear?
Are you using stock master cylinder?
gkull, the adjustable proportioning valve in the photo should be used in the rear line. It is adjustable so that customized vehicles can be tuned to NOT lock up the rear wheel before the fronts. It works the same as a stock proportioning valve, but gives adjustment to set the pressure bleed off point to match with brake upgrades, tire sizes, gear ratios, engine compression, and all the things that affect what the rear tires feel during deceleration.
HBZ, what front spindles and rear axle did you order those kits for? Because they are not going to fit the stock front spindles or rear IRS on a C3.....
I ordered both the front and rear kits for a C3. Why is it that the brake kit are not going to fit? Everything was ordered specifically for the C3. The front kit is complete with caliper brackets, hubs, calipers and rotors. The rear kit is complete with backing plate, Wilwood parking brake set up, caliper brackets, calipers and rotors, parking brake cables. There are also detailed instructions for the installation of both kits. I haven't begun the installation yet as I am still waiting on the new wheels to arrive. Once I have the wheels I will do the install. Everything looks prett much straight forward.
Have you attempted the installation of this kit? If so and you have some insight of what I'm going to run into as far as potential problems please let me know.
wweast, I looked at your profile but you have provided no info for fellow members to know who you are. Also I looked at your posts and you have only posted to threads involving brakes. Are you a brake manufacturer for brake products for C3's? I struggling to find as to why my new "toys" for my C3 aren' going to work according to you.
HBZ..I am new to this forum and have not completed a profile as of yet. I work with brakes in a technical capacity, and have a lot of experience with WIlwood products. Van Steele commented that he didn't think Wilwood made a from hub for the C3's and he is correct. The only front hub kit that WIlwood makes for a C2/C3 is a Pro Series or Drag race kit for the 63-64 drum brake spindle, and it is not a 13" Big Brake kit. The rear kit with the internal shoe parking brake was never built for an IRS rear. The Wilwood kits with the internal parking brakes are made for Chevy 12 bolts, Ford 9". Mopar / Dana, and other solid axle rears. You should check the part numbers on the kit boxes and the part numbers and applications on the intruction sheets that came with your kits, or check with the dealer where you purchased them. I can promise you that the kits in the picture are not going to bolt on to your stock C3 suspension. You can also email me at ceabush@alltel.net if you need more help with this.
Regards,
CB