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on my daily driver...one of the 1/8" lines going to the right rear wheel rusted through on my daily driver and lost all fluid. I can cut the rusted section out but am wondering if I have enough room to do a double flare and use a union, or just use a compression fitting. Going to replace both sets of lines...will be a nightmare because of all the compound bends in both lines....
Has anybody used compression fittings on hydraulic lines?
Never used a ordinary plumbing compression fitting on any brake lines....but on power steering, one of them been there some 15 years now....the other for about 4 years....part of the HBoost plumbing...
I would not think twice over those steel compression fittings...but last I seen they make new lines look cheeeeeeep....
Gene, the compression fittings are brass, and the lines have a coating on them...at this point I have no choise, the longest line I can get is six feet, and no waY I can run one line, so I will cut by the solid section and bend....the dog gone lines are tucked under and real close to the body edge...if I can get a flare, I will do that, if not, then then a compression fitting will have to do...
Gene, the compression fittings are brass, and the lines have a coating on them...at this point I have no choise, the longest line I can get is six feet, and no waY I can run one line, so I will cut by the solid section and bend....the dog gone lines are tucked under and real close to the body edge...if I can get a flare, I will do that, if not, then then a compression fitting will have to do...
Years ago, I got two common supply lengths of steel brake line....whatever combo of in stock lines needed to make up the length....I happen to have a double flaring kit, and so honestly remember what I had to do but I know there is a brass flare union in that rear line somewhere....I also redid the one to the pass side in the rear at same time....
but they been there a long time now...going to say 8 years....
but if you followed any of my threads, you know there is absolutely NOTHING stock about my car, including the brakes....
I don't know if your daily driver is a c3, if it is, I think the line is 3/16 and you can bend up a new one in 1/2 hour or less.
If it isn't a c3 and truly has a 1/8" line (possibly really metric for a newer car, you will know by the thread sizes), then pick up a new straight section long enough for the shortest line to replace. Once vut, you should be able to bend it enough to get a flaring tool on it and reinstall with a clamp if necessary.
Get an "inverted flare union" to join the lines together, a forever replacement but you must flare the line after cutting. These are brass and made for this just like some proportioning valves.
Weatherhead is 1 manufacturer and should be available at better parts stores.
I think Parker/Hannifin does make some stainless compression unions, I would trust that much more than brass, but getting them in a timely manner might be rough.
My welder was showing me some Parker fittings that go to hydraulics in some God forsaken place.....I forget if they were stainless or steel....when he mentioned the price, methinks a engine is cheeper for our cars.....
98 Buick Park Avenue w/supercharged v6....lines could be 3/16...will cut and take to the store...NAPA by me handles the Weatherhead line in fittings, in fact I used to work for Weatherhead as a Plant Controller in their Corp Offices.
on my daily driver...one of the 1/8" lines going to the right rear wheel rusted through on my daily driver and lost all fluid. I can cut the rusted section out but am wondering if I have enough room to do a double flare and use a union, or just use a compression fitting. Going to replace both sets of lines...will be a nightmare because of all the compound bends in both lines....
Has anybody used compression fittings on hydraulic lines?
My 63 had a section of the main brake line going to the rear cut out and replaced with a double compression fitting on each end. It had been on there a long, long time. Found it when the line behind it rusted through and I had to replace it. Pretty scary when it rusted through with the single master cylinder. Had just enough to stop me before the pedal hit the floor.
Got it fixed...two lines going to the rear, one for each wheel...cut them where the lines were solid..and the bends were a nightmare..vertical, horizontal, one bend in each line going up in a 35 degree incline then a 90, but got them bent. used the double compression fittings to make two lines, one going to one of the rear wheels...then had to bend another line for the crossover..that was a nightmare...I canned the complex bends and made the necessary bends to get the line to the brake hose...even with the minimal bends, it took almost an hour of cussing and laying on the concrete to muscle the line in place...and of course another double compression fitting to mate that line...