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rough ide when head lights open

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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 06:18 AM
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Default rough ide when head lights open

well i have a rough idle when my head lights are open on my stock 71
has anyone or everyone else experenced this and know where to start looking for what i presume to be a vac. leak
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 07:16 AM
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just start tracing the hoses back from the manifold to the headlights unplugging at various junctions and sealing the loose end. when it goes from running good to running rough you have found your leak.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 07:24 AM
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if it is when they are open, I am guessing is between the relay, and actuator. Work backwards from the actuator.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 10:25 AM
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Relay or leaking actuator!

Check the lower hose on the headlamp relays. This hose is the “hold open” side of the relay and feeds vacuum to the up side of the actuator. Replace one side and test the car again. If you still have the same problem then replace the other side as well.

If after doing this you still have the problem more than likely you have an actuator leaking vacuum.

You could have a problem somewhere else in the system, but it’s un-likely. The reason I say this is the vacuum operations is designed to operate when the vacuum is blocked. So when you pull the headlamp switch on it blocks the vacuum on the small hose on the top of the relay which cuts the vacuum to the plunger. This allows the plunger in the relay to move to the lower nipple and allow the supply vacuum to pull up on the headlamp relay.

About the only other thing I could think of would be the headlamp switch itself leaking vacuum in the shut (electrical on) position.

This page may help you understand the operations of the parts in the system. It is mainly for the early style wiper system but the parts operate the same way.

http://willcoxcorvette.com/repairand...lp.php?hID=218

Willcox Inc.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 10:42 AM
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Don't replace them until you know that they are "bad". Remove and test them first. [That is likely the problem, though.]
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 11:24 AM
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7t1 is correct,

You can usually rebuild them with new seals, boots and retainers cheaper should the actuator be the problem. If you do try to rebuild them make sure the rod the clevis is screwed on is not scored, this will only cut the new seal.

Willcox
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