Remove rotors
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Instructor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 176
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From: Rocklin California
Remove rotors
I know I have seen posts on this before but now can't find any so here goes, How do I remove the rotors? Do I drill out the spots between the wheel lugs? Thanks in advance, Bubs 
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 10,628
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From: Duvall, WA
Yes, you will have to drill out the rivets if they are still there. Punch the center of each rivet, then drill about 3/8" deep with a 5/16" drill bit. Then enlarge that hole with a 3/8" bit. Eventually, the head will come off of the rivet and you can move to the next. When you've done all five rivets, you may take the rotor off. Don't replace the rivets when putting the rotor back on.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
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From: Bay Area CA
Before you remove your rotors, be aware they weren't riveted on for fun, they were set in place and turned as an Assembly to eliminate run-out, or wobble/high-low spots. Corvette brakes can't tolerate run-out, so if your going to reuse your rotors, mark the position of one of the lug / hole combos. If your installing new rotors they need to be turned on the car ($75 a wheel) with one of those new bolt to hub on the car machines, most large Chevy dealers have them. C. 
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: charlotte N.C
Safety Car
Joined: May 2008
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From: Lafayette Louisiana
Another option for you to consider
There are differing opinions out there, but when installing new rotors, you can also shim between the rotor and hub to get the correct runout. I think the max runout you want is between .003 and .005. I shimmed mine on the '76 with good results and others on this forum have too. You can do a search on this to get more info.
Race Director
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
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From: Marina CA
It took a good amount of time and some frustration to get the new drilled/slotted rotors on the front of the 68 to .0015 runout. Got brass shim stock in .001, .002, .003 and .005 thickness. Puched them into 1" diameter circles with a 1/2" hole in the center to fit over the lug nut stud. Then tried indexing the rotors 5 different times on each stud and got them to .006 runout with no shims. This is done with 0 play on the wheel bearings. You need to keep track of the runout whether it's inward or outward and them shim accordingly. If only the C3's had floating calipers!
Cheated on the rears, sent the trailing arms to GTR1999 for a rebuild so the new rotors went with them for Gary to dial in.
Cheated on the rears, sent the trailing arms to GTR1999 for a rebuild so the new rotors went with them for Gary to dial in.
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Drifting
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,317
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From: Marina CA
I bought the shim stock at Ace Hardware and used a Snap-On gasket punch set to cut the circles.
Ace sells a a pack of shim stock in the 4 thicknesses, each sheet is 4" X 6" and there was more than enough for all 4. You'll need to disconnect the half shafts to dial in the rears otherwise you can't turn the rotors easily with the half shafts connected. That's how I found out my trailing arms needed help, the spindle shaft bearings were noisy and had excessive end play.
This started out as a rotor and caliper exchange and look what it blossomed into! Oh well it's a C3 after all.
Ace sells a a pack of shim stock in the 4 thicknesses, each sheet is 4" X 6" and there was more than enough for all 4. You'll need to disconnect the half shafts to dial in the rears otherwise you can't turn the rotors easily with the half shafts connected. That's how I found out my trailing arms needed help, the spindle shaft bearings were noisy and had excessive end play.
This started out as a rotor and caliper exchange and look what it blossomed into! Oh well it's a C3 after all.
Advanced
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From: Frisco TX
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Piedmont Va
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13,'19-'20
Measuring and correcting the runout is a little time consuming but very educational and well worth the effort. I did my fronts two years ago and have had perfect brakes since. 
I do not believe in the practice of turning brand new HP rotors. Adjusting runout is the only solution IMO.
Mike Ward; I agree it was quite negligent of CM not to address this in their article.
I do not believe in the practice of turning brand new HP rotors. Adjusting runout is the only solution IMO.
Mike Ward; I agree it was quite negligent of CM not to address this in their article.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
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That's how all C2s and C3s were manufactured- rotor and hub rivetted together, then machined as a set. Far superior to 'shimming'
Last edited by Mike Ward; Mar 17, 2009 at 05:22 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,246
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From: Bay Area CA
