71 Wiper HELP Needed PLEASE
I share your frustration, I'm a normally calm guy but admit I have tossed a few tools around the past few days monkeying with this.
Here's where mine get's interesting......I'm checking and rechecking each wire and realize that when I have the blue wire disconnected from everything in the system (relay, switch, motor, etc.) and touch it to ground, I hear a relay kicking somewhere down around my transmission! I've crawled under and tried to find it but can only determine that it's at the tranny, on the side or on top or something. Have to get it on the lift to see exactly what is up but someone has obviously been a naughty boy with the wiring on this beast.
I just have to keep reminding myself.....the worst day working on my toy beats the best day behind the desk. Besides my family there is nowhere I'd rather be.
Wish you were in the neighborhood, would be fun share a beer and figure these out together.....
[IMG]
[/IMG]Update: While going through Mr. Wilcox's reply and re-running the test several times to be sure I am getting the correct results for no reason the motor starts running. It was going so fast I could not beleive that was a high speed selection but as I attempted to turn it off at the switch it only slowed down so I turned the key off and no change it continue to run and when I turn the key back on it goes back to 10000 RPM's. I checked the 123 connector while it was runing and there was no power at any of the three wires. I unpluged the relay and it just slowed down. I finally turn the bypass switch off and it shut down. Also as it was appearing to go crazy the washer pump randomly started and shut off and the drag of the pump caused it to slow sum but it would not shut off except to cut power from the red wire. This has got to be a result of previous attempt to repair this thing and perhaps a wire was spliced in the harness or another wire has melted the insulation off and burned into another wire causing the backfeed.
What is the possibility it is a bad motor? I am sure it was rebuilt in China or Mexico and the first 3 were doa. I have to keep walking away from it because I tend to have a bad temper and I afraid I may try to get even with this beast.
Still have wiring issues to chase though...wish I was not so damn ****, don't plan to ever use the wipers but can't stand the thought of something on the car not working properly, no matter the impact to my wallet or sanity.
Last edited by buskey; Mar 20, 2009 at 06:43 PM.
I may pull the motor tomorrow and go for number 5 and of course I will bench test it first. I have been getting them from Advanced Auto for $65 I beleive which I thouht was the problem so I ordered one from Ecklers for $150.00 and it came in the same exact box and looked Identical and guess what it didn't work either. I sent it back and got another from Advanced. It worked on the bench so I put it in the car and here we are.
Buskey ,
Let me know how you make out.
I'll look this over tomorrow and see if I can help. Great pictures too!
Hang in there both of you and well figure this out! Intersting on the black and white wire.
I may drive to my office tomorrow to look at my 70. I can ping the wire real easy since the center dash is still out of the car.
Now you have me wondering! I drew the original schematic off the GM diagrams, and what is so interesting is that this schematic has been used over and over again and no one has ever said there was a wire issue in the schematic. Proving it one way or the other will be easy for me, getting to the office tomorrow to check it may be a problem. I may have to wait until Monday.
Willcox
Absolutely, would love any assistance we can get. I'll get mine on the lift this weekend and see what the hell is going on down by the trans. Will post some pics of mine for you as well but it looks just like yours just without the factory molex connector at the switch and motor.Thanks!
Bill
It's not the Motor! I removed it from the car and bench tested one more time before going to the parts store to swap it out. At first it did the same as in the car it would not shut off without killing power to the red constant. However when I added the second ground to the 123 connector at #1 blue it switched to LOW speed as it should (According to Mr. Wilcox's instructions)and when removed it went to high speed. Now when you apply both the grounds to 1 & 3 then remove power from 2 it will park and turn off like it should.
So the question is HOW or WHAT switches both blue and green to ground and removes 12v from yellow at the 123 connector? I think this is were the addition of the relay circuit in its open & closed positions would a great addition and help to wiring diagram.
Mr Wilcox is obviously more familar with this circuit I am hoping he can offer an explanation that will help both Myself and Buskey.
In the mean time I will study the diagram and see if I can't figure out how to get the same results as the bench test:
ON THE BENCH:
Grounds to Motor Terminal #1 (Blue wire on Diagram) & Motor Terminal #3 (Green wire On Diagram) (+12v) @ Motor Terminal#2 (Yellow wire on Diagram) = Low speed
Ground to Motor Terminal #3 (Green wire on Diagram) (+12) @Motor Terminal #2 (Yellow wire on Diagram) & #1 (Blue wire on Diagram) open = High Speed
Ground to Motor Terminal #1 (Blue Wire on Diagram) & Motor Terminal #3 (Green wire on Diagram) & (-12v) Motor Terminal #2 (Yellow Wire on Diagram) open = Off/Park
Last edited by 71C3LS5; Mar 21, 2009 at 10:05 PM. Reason: Add text
They are working now!
However I can't say I feel 100% confident in why they are working but they do everything thay are supose to; High, Low, Park.
What did I do? I was attempting do what I stated in the last post above which was duplicate in the car what I had on the bench. I don't think in the end it was an exact science.
First I had to swap #1 & #3 in the 123 connector at the wiper motor. This was the way it was before I started and I changed it to reflect Mr. Wilcox's diagram.
Second I had to turn the plug at the switch around also which to me clearly looks to be the wrong way but again it work perfectly so maybe the last guy pulled the wires and swapped them around.
Now for another discrepencie:
According to MR. Wilcox's Technical Fourm " The wiper switch is a grounding circuit only! Never Should you have voltage present on the wiper switch or any of it's connectors through out the entire harness" end quote.
There is voltage present at the wiper switch as follows:
Off:
Dark Blue +12V Blk/Wht - No Voltage Light Blue +12v
LOW: Dark Blue +12V Blk/wht - No Voltage Light Blue - No Voltage
HIGH: Dark Blue +12V Blk/Wht +12v Light Blue - No Voltage
I can understand why it is there too. It is on the Dark Blue because the 12v at the yellow wire in Mr. Wilcox's diagram shows it to power the windings of the washer pump therefore 12v is free to travel the windings and back to the switch through the dark blue wire
On the Light Blue wire there is 12v for the same reason only it is going through the windings at the relay through the yellow and light blue connector. You can prove this by unplugging either at the respective connector.
BUSKEY:
You may want to give this a try and if it work at your end as well we my have to add a new wiring diagram to this post should anyone else run into this.
Mr. Wilcox:
I welcome your thoughts on my findings
Last edited by 71C3LS5; Mar 21, 2009 at 10:19 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I looked at your pictures, you only have one light blue wire at the wiper switch and there should be two. I looked at your top picture, and I looked at the close up picture of the wiper switch with the connector on it. I only see one light blue wire.
The light blue runs from from the tach solenoid, to the switch and then to the relay. Is there a wire missing or am I just not seeing it. This might explain the voltate issue on the wires I'm not sure yet.
I will reiterate my statement; there should NEVER be any voltage present on the dark blue, light blue, black or green wires when the system is wired correctly.
Having voltage present is a sign of a missing ground wire from the system.
Number 3 light blue grounded to the engine should give you high, number 1 (green) and number 3 grounded should give you low.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Mar 22, 2009 at 11:32 AM.
I did find another reference to the center wire on the wiper switch connector. This reference is on another vendors schematic which says the wire may be either black or black with a white stripe. This still will not excuse the error from the center wire to the relay in all the other schematics. However in this vendors schematic the wires are in the correct position.
I will correct the help page to reflect the change in the the two terminal connections as soon as possible..
Willcox Inc.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Mar 22, 2009 at 12:25 PM.
I need to know where the (NON A/c car) vac line @ controller in front of right control wheel. There is a molded 2 vac line connector. the top line has been cut off at about 6" inches from the front of the connector. Any Idea where this vsc line should be hooked to?
Last edited by 71C3LS5; Mar 22, 2009 at 06:10 PM. Reason: correction
I have the same wiring - single blue wire to switch, relay and soleniod although all show continuity. My assumption is that that are combined somewhere inside the wiring harness.
Can you please help me with wire order on the switch and motor? As I mentioned, my factory connectors are gone so I have to connect the wires independently and the diagram only shows them in a row without orientation. Sounds like you reversed the connector at the switch from your last pic??
Thanks!
On my 70 the light blue wire is to the passenger side of the switch! (only two wires are present and not one).
On my 72 the light blue wire is to the passenger side of the switch! (There is only one wire present on this harness and it is original as well so it must T off somewhere in the main branch).
I just pulled the 71 AIM and it shows two wires going to the switch, but again it may be breaking off. I have the connectors in stock used too. I'm going to look at them and see if I can find one with a single lt blue wire on it.
From looking at the AIM the connector has a little tab on it that prevents the harness from being plugged in backwards.
Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Mar 23, 2009 at 04:15 PM.

Note the top left, lower left and top right connector have a black wire in the center, while the 72 lower right picture has a black wire with a white stripe all only have one lt blue wire.
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Mar 23, 2009 at 10:19 PM.
They are working now!
However I can't say I feel 100% confident in why they are working but they do everything thay are supose to; High, Low, Park.
What did I do? I was attempting do what I stated in the last post above which was duplicate in the car what I had on the bench. I don't think in the end it was an exact science.
First I had to swap #1 & #3 in the 123 connector at the wiper motor. This was the way it was before I started and I changed it to reflect Mr. Wilcox's diagram.
Second I had to turn the plug at the switch around also which to me clearly looks to be the wrong way but again it work perfectly so maybe the last guy pulled the wires and swapped them around.
Now for another discrepencie:
According to MR. Wilcox's Technical Fourm " The wiper switch is a grounding circuit only! Never Should you have voltage present on the wiper switch or any of it's connectors through out the entire harness" end quote.
There is voltage present at the wiper switch as follows:
Off:
Dark Blue +12V Blk/Wht - No Voltage Light Blue +12v
LOW: Dark Blue +12V Blk/wht - No Voltage Light Blue - No Voltage
HIGH: Dark Blue +12V Blk/Wht +12v Light Blue - No Voltage
I can understand why it is there too. It is on the Dark Blue because the 12v at the yellow wire in Mr. Wilcox's diagram shows it to power the windings of the washer pump therefore 12v is free to travel the windings and back to the switch through the dark blue wire
On the Light Blue wire there is 12v for the same reason only it is going through the windings at the relay through the yellow and light blue connector. You can prove this by unplugging either at the respective connector.
BUSKEY:
You may want to give this a try and if it work at your end as well we my have to add a new wiring diagram to this post should anyone else run into this.
Mr. Wilcox:
I welcome your thoughts on my findings
I also have voltage present at the switch & motor, same exact scenario as you:
Off: Dark Blue +12V, Blk/Wht - No Voltage, Light Blue +12v
LOW: Dark Blue +12V, Blk/wht - No Voltage, Light Blue - No Voltage
HIGH: Dark Blue +12V, Blk/Wht +12v, Light Blue - No Voltage
It works every time, no issues at all.

Thanks for all of the help! I can finally move on to other finishing touches.
Last edited by buskey; Mar 24, 2009 at 06:42 PM.





