rear toe align
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 492
Likes: 3
From: Temecula CA
If your Vette is a 69 or later, the shims have slots, so you don't have to completely remove the bolts to add/subtract shims. There is a big cotter pin that secures the shims to the frame pocket, just below where the trailing arm sits. If everything is corroded together, you may have no choice but to sawzall through the bolt to remove all the rusted hardware. Many posts on this forum sing the blues over this process. When I did my T-arms, I resorted to a sawzall. I replaced all the hardware (bolts, nuts, washers, spacers, and cotter pin) with stainless steel pieces and lotsa anti-seize. Good Luck!
Temvette72
Temvette72
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
I have a 69 coupe. It seems as if the bolt goes right through the shims,like the older style. The shims move freeley up and down, but you cant pull them out without pulling the bolt out ,and the bolt is frozen. I took out the cotter pin and the nut and tried to knock the bolt out ,but no good?
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 492
Likes: 3
From: Temecula CA
My bolts and shim packs were rusted into a solid mass of....whatever you call it. That bolt was really stubborn. After I cut through it on both sides of the trailing arms, I had to pound on the little stubs that were left in the frame really hard to get them to pop loose. It doesn't help that you have to hit them on a funny angle with a drift. Also, the little piece that was left in the trailing arm took a drift and a 5# sledge to break loose. If yours are that bad, I can't see being able to get enough force on that bolt to remove it intact. The good news is that the new-style shims are really easy to put in and it makes it easier (though not a piece of cake) to thread the new bolt through the frame and the trailing arm.
Temvette72
Temvette72
Racer
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 492
Likes: 3
From: Temecula CA
