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After sandblasting question

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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 09:47 AM
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Default After sandblasting question

I have finally finished sandblasting the fame. Now what do I have to do before I paint it? What metal cleaner do I use? Do I have to use metal ready and marine clean? I am using Eastwood's 2K ceramic paint to paint the frame. Any other advise before I primer and paint it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Kevin
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 10:21 AM
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I always use a prep called Metal Prep from Homey Depot, $13 bucks/gal, same a OSPHO (phosphoric acid) but a lot cheaper.
I do the inside and outside full strength with a weed sprayer, rinse it off with a water hose, let it dry. This gets rid of all the fine blasting dust. Then, do it again, don't rinse, let it dry, overnite, then wire brush the outside and prime.
It will turn black and supposedly protect the steel from rusting better than just a primer alone.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 11:52 AM
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Default frame

Make any frame repairs or welding that has to be done then prime and paint it. What ever kind of paint you use let it dry for at least two weeks and also paint in warmer weather.
I have to figure out how to attach pics on here. A pic makes explaining a lot easier.
Good luck
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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Noonie - no rinsing after 2nd coat?

I bought some 3M acid wash over the weekend and it came in 2 separate bottles. First is metal clean and the 2nd is conditioner. I have not read instructions yet, but assume washing w/water after both.

Maybe your product is different procedure.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 10:34 PM
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I use phosphoric acid. Here is a short description. Everyone packages it under their own name. I even do all the nuts and bolts to protect them and look like the oem black oxide finish. Dip them in oil and they will look all black.
Here is what the finish will look like unwashed and dried. Wire brush to prep for paint.



You have probably read of using Coke to remove rust from parts. Well you guessed it, Coke contains phosphoric acid.

Metal Prep
Metal prep is a cleaner and conditioner for bare metal. It is composed of phosphoric acid and glycol ether. When spread over bare metal it reacts with the surface molecules to form a light coat of zinc phosphate that protects the metal from moisture. Rust, therefore, has a difficult time forming under the surface. Most finishes can be applied directly over a surface that has been coated with metal prep, but we tend to wipe it down with Prep Sol, followed by whatever solvent we're using for the paint or primer.

Metal prep is soluble in water and is generally only mildly toxic unless vaporized by heat. It is always advisable to wear rubber gloves and protect eyes from the irritating effects of contact.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 12:56 AM
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Acid to clean it, then acid neutralizer to make sure no left-over acid rusts the [clean] frame. Prime it quickly after the cleaning [or it will rust in pretty short order].
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 06:19 PM
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Default clean frame

After sand blasting a frame I didn't think the metal could be any cleaner. Why add any additional expense and work. Just needs prime and paint. I sand blasted and painted mine 2 1/2 years ago the finish
looks great.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 07:44 PM
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use some lacquer thinner to clean the sandblast dust off, eastwood will tell you to use some epoxy primer prior to painting (thats what they told me)
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 09:58 PM
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After sand blasting a frame I didn't think the metal could be any cleaner. Why add any additional expense and work. Just needs prime and paint. I sand blasted and painted mine 2 1/2 years ago the finish
looks great.


After sandblasting I touched up some welds then sprayed 2 coats PPG DP90 Epoxy primer followed by 2 coats Black semi gloss enamel. Finished up with oil spray inside the frame rails and crossmembers.


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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 09:30 PM
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noonie- you wired wheeled the whole fame after you placed the metal prep on?
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 06:45 AM
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When the phosphoric acid creates it's protective coating, in spots there will a little rougher coating.
Just a quick once over with hand wire brush or even a stiff scrub brush to knock off the loose stuff.
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by noonie
When the phosphoric acid creates it's protective coating, in spots there will a little rougher coating.
Just a quick once over with hand wire brush or even a stiff scrub brush to knock off the loose stuff.
Hi All, long time lurker, first time poster... Noonie, I was reading your technique on this, and it reminds me of rust blueing a shotgun... is that you influence for prepping your frame like that? I'm getting ready to prep my frame as well, and thinking of going the sandblast/paint route.

Thanks
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