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i just cant get it right. no matter what i do i cant get my lokar throttle cable adjusted properly.
i have tried to install it with the pedal all the way up and the carb at idle and i have tried to install it with the pedal all the way down and the carb at WOT.
every time i end up with either not enough travel on the carb or not enough travel on the pedal.
i have looked at a couple of install instructions around here but i must be an idiot because everyone just says its easy.
i am gauging all the way down on the pedal by the th400 kickdown clicking when it gets hit.
Which hole on the carb are you using to attach the cable? That will determine the ratio of pedal travel.
i have tried a few of them.
i guess the pedal arm may be bent. it goes all the way to the floor and clicks the transmission solenoid when the cable is unhooked from the carb but when i hook it up to the carb the throttle blades go to WOT before the pedal gets all the way down. i even read where you can put a piece of hose on the arm for the kickdown switch to make it engage but that shouldnt be necessary right?
i guess the pedal arm may be bent. it goes all the way to the floor and clicks the transmission solenoid when the cable is unhooked from the carb but when i hook it up to the carb the throttle blades go to WOT before the pedal gets all the way down. i even read where you can put a piece of hose on the arm for the kickdown switch to make it engage but that shouldnt be necessary right?
This may be a stupid suggestion, but are you sure you hit the transmission kickdown switch before you replaced the cable? Could be you had the same problem before and just didn't notice.
Ultimately, if your car idles fine and reaches WOT, the only other thing it needs to do is hit the switch. Doesn't much matter if the travel is different.
Once you get idle to WOT with the pedal travel the switch will set itself if you do the following.
First make sure you get idle to WOT with the pedal travel. Adjust throttle cable and/or bend the pedal rod a bit. Make sure you don't have too much stuff under the pedal like heat insulation, carpet jute, carpet, floor mat, etc.
Push the switch lever all the way forward until you hear it click. The next time you go to WOT the switch will set itself.
I struggled with the same issue and I finally had to remove the pedal rod and bend it a bit to get fmore travel and take the slack out of the cable AT THE PEDAL ROD connection.
Baxsom, don't mean to Hi-jack your thread but I have the same question. I pulled the cable tight and connected to the front-most hole on the carb pivot. The pedal is nice and tight but at WOT, the secondary opens just a fraction. If I do it by hand, I can get another 1" or so to full open on the secondary. Bent floor pedal rod?
Sorry for the intrusion.
Baxsom, don't mean to Hi-jack your thread but I have the same question. I pulled the cable tight and connected to the front-most hole on the carb pivot. The pedal is nice and tight but at WOT, the secondary opens just a fraction. If I do it by hand, I can get another 1" or so to full open on the secondary. Bent floor pedal rod?
Sorry for the intrusion.
Yes. I found when I moved the pedal by hand I had slack where the cable end attached to the accelerator rod inside the car. By bending the rod a bit I took out the slack and got additional travel so I could get WOT. After all the adjustments were done I snapped the switch as described and it adjusted automatically to open at WOT.
Last edited by 08vycpe; Mar 31, 2009 at 08:34 PM.
Reason: Added photo
i tried the adjusting the switch. i cant get it to move forward towards the seats.
it will only go down towards the engine. it goes to the halfway point up and then stops. i dont want to force it.
i was able to bend the rod a little forward and i think i got it.
it clicks now when it goes down and looks like it goes to WOT on the blades.
now i just need to wait for all the fuel the pumps sprayed into the carb to evap so i can try to crank it.
i tried the adjusting the switch. i cant get it to move forward towards the seats.
it will only go down towards the engine. it goes to the halfway point up and then stops. i dont want to force it.
i was able to bend the rod a little forward and i think i got it.
it clicks now when it goes down and looks like it goes to WOT on the blades.
now i just need to wait for all the fuel the pumps sprayed into the carb to evap so i can try to crank it.
The switch arm moves toward the engine, not the seats. Actually you do have to force it a little so apply the force as close to the switch housing as you can and don't push on the end of the arm.
Next time put a rag in the carb to absorb the fuel as you pump but PLEASE don't forget to take it out before you start the engine.
To be clear, I was talking about bending the rod rearward near my red circle to take out the slack. That gave me more travel and some more adjustment at the carb end of the cable. THEN, I reset the switch arm.
Thank you all for the great information. I removed the pedal assembly and bent the rod a bit as suggested. The pedal is much higher but still good and the new Quadra-jet opens all the way.
Good to hear you now have WOT. Now just be sure that there is still a little movement left at the carb so the cable has no strain at WOT. You probably now have some room for adjustment at the carb linkage.