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Centerforce clutch break-in?

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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 11:29 AM
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Default Centerforce clutch break-in?

Installed a centerforce clutch on my '71 427 sb. Instruction sheet says: "All centerforce clutches require a break-in period of 450-500 miles of stop and go street driving before applying full engine power. This period is required to properly seat the disc with the pressure plate and flywheel."

I never heard of a break-in for a clutch before. Is this really necessary? That's going to take the whole summer with as much as it gets driven! Any experiences? Thanks.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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Hi

Wow, 500 miles .

When I installed the DF Ctr force clutch, I did not care about this.
But I also resurfaced the flywheel.
I found the grip of the clutch to be excellent right away.
Then again, I don't race the care, so don't do launches starting at 5000 RPM. But when I feel like stepping the gas, I do so regardles.

Don't worry too much. Try it and you will feel if it grips correctly.

Rgds. Günther
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 12:43 PM
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I find you have to stay on top of the pedal "free play" adjustment for up to 3K miles before it settles down for the long term. If you don't keep the free play adjustment proper, the clutch will seem fine at low RPM but when the counterweights move the Bellville spring rearward at high RPMs you will unload and burn up the disc pretty quickly. You need 1-1.5" of freeplay in the linkage before the throw out bearing contacts the clutch fork to allow for the counterweight action of a CF clutch. Free play is easy to check, grab the linkage by the "Z" bar and watch the action of the linkage you want the clutch rod to have 1-1.5" of movement. I have also had to use a 1/2 heigth nut on the clutch linkage to allow for enough initial freeplay adjustment on one installation with a aftermarket bellhousing. The 1/2 heigth nut (a nylon locknut) was on the front side and I used 2 nuts at the rear to lock the clutch linkage adjustment. If they are broken in correctly CF clutches will live a long life.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Solid LT1
You need 1-1.5" of freeplay in the linkage before the throw out bearing contacts the clutch fork to allow for the counterweight action of a CF clutch.
If I had 1.5" of free play in my linkage, the clutch would never release.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 04:03 PM
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All they are really worried about is you glazing the surfaces. Just like brake pad break in.

Your little motor probably isn't strong enough to hurt anything unless you slip the clutch under power
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by WESCH
Hi


When I installed the DF Ctr force clutch, I did not care about this.
But I also resurfaced the flywheel.
I found the grip of the clutch to be excellent right away.
Don't worry too much. Try it and you will feel if it grips correctly.

Rgds. Günther
I resurfaced my flywheel too. I'll probably start jumpin' out on it then and see how she does. Thanks.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
All they are really worried about is you glazing the surfaces. Just like brake pad break in.

Your little motor probably isn't strong enough to hurt anything unless you slip the clutch under power
Are you saying I shouldn't start dumping the clutch on hard launches?
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Solid LT1
I find you have to stay on top of the pedal "free play" adjustment for up to 3K miles before it settles down for the long term. If you don't keep the free play adjustment proper, the clutch will seem fine at low RPM but when the counterweights move the Bellville spring rearward at high RPMs you will unload and burn up the disc pretty quickly. You need 1-1.5" of freeplay in the linkage before the throw out bearing contacts the clutch fork to allow for the counterweight action of a CF clutch. Free play is easy to check, grab the linkage by the "Z" bar and watch the action of the linkage you want the clutch rod to have 1-1.5" of movement. I have also had to use a 1/2 heigth nut on the clutch linkage to allow for enough initial freeplay adjustment on one installation with a aftermarket bellhousing. The 1/2 heigth nut (a nylon locknut) was on the front side and I used 2 nuts at the rear to lock the clutch linkage adjustment. If they are broken in correctly CF clutches will live a long life.
Are you saying that as the clutch breaks in, the freeplay will increase, so you have to adjust. If you don't, the clutch will start not releasing fully and burn/glaze?
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by kunkle
Are you saying I shouldn't start dumping the clutch on hard launches?
Over the years I've broken a bunch of stuff on my poor old Vette. So a high rpm dump the clutch is not on my "smarter things to do" list Slipping the clutch with your foot on the gas is even worse

I usually just off idle let the clutch out fast and then ease into flooring it with slicks. I use my motor TQ to go. Your 427 should be the same. To take off fast takes practise because my tires want to spin from a dead stop.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by kunkle
Are you saying I shouldn't start dumping the clutch on hard launches?

I doubt you are going to hurt the clutch doing this but other parts tend to break.

I took those fricken little useless weights off the pressure plate anyway. They do nothing but make noise. Advertising hype.
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Old Mar 31, 2009 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
I doubt you are going to hurt the clutch doing this but other parts tend to break.

I took those fricken little useless weights off the pressure plate anyway. They do nothing but make noise. Advertising hype.
And make it vibrate bad. POS
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 06:16 PM
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Think long and hard about what is going on: as the disc wears, the pressure ring moves FORWARD towards the flywheel, as the ring moves forward, the bellville spring moves REARWARD thereby REDUCING clearance to the throw-out bearing. If you don't keep freeplay adjusted, the spring will bend backwards at high RPM and unload the clutch disc at the worst possible time. The 1-1.5" of freeplay is the movement of the clutch pedal not the rod, if you don't have 1-1.5 inches of freeplay with a CF clutch, you will have high RPM problems. My clutch pedal moves over 5" in travel maybe the other poster should remove his **** carpet from the 70's along with the velour upholstery and get something nicer in his Vette if he can't get 1-1.5" of free play in the clutch pedal.
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Old Apr 1, 2009 | 07:26 PM
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[QUOTE=Solid LT1;1569535808]Think long and hard about what is going on: as the disc wears, the pressure ring moves FORWARD towards the flywheel, as the ring moves forward, the bellville spring moves REARWARD thereby REDUCING clearance to the throw-out bearing. If you don't keep freeplay adjusted, the spring will bend backwards at high RPM and unload the clutch disc at the worst possible time.

Now it makes sense- don't recall anything in the instructions with it about that. I need to increase the freeplay as it wears not decrease it like w/ a normal clutch. Thanks.
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Old Apr 2, 2009 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Solid LT1
You need 1-1.5" of freeplay in the linkage before the throw out bearing contacts the clutch fork

Originally Posted by Solid LT1
The 1-1.5" of freeplay is the movement of the clutch pedal not the rod,

Maybe you should be a little more careful when you type your posts. Pedal freeplay is not the same as linkage freeplay.
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