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I have what I believe to be a cherry numbers matching engine for my 79 L82. Now that I've got the engine disassembled, is there a way to ensure that the rods and crank are OEM forged? I've inspected the crank and no numbers can be found.
Can forged be identified from cast by simply looking at it? If so, does anyone have pics that show the difference.
If I remember, you can tell the crank by looking at the nose. If there's a rift or a line down the centerline of the crank nose then it's a cast crank. No pics but I remember reading that years ago when I was learning to build motors.
All smallblock Chevy rods are forged. For the crank, look at an unmachined part of the crank, like along one of the counterweights. If the parting line is small, about the width of a toothpick, the crank is cast. If the line is wide, > 1/4" of an inch, this is the forging flash line where the metal was forced out of the dies when it was forged.
Real L-82 motor code will be in VIN of Vette, motor should have a oil pan with side baffles and a windage tray bolted to extended main cap bolts. Crank will have a wide forging lines and rods may have paint marks on the beam (nothing really special about the rods, they are like Pink rods and I wouldn't re-use them myself), pistons should be forged. Heads will have pushrod guide plates and 2.02/1.60 valves but, being late light weight castings, unless your going NCRS, throw them into the dumpster as they are prone to cracking. Block is also not as desirable as a 75 or earlier block and should not be used for more than 450HP build-up.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by Solid LT1
Real L-82 motor code will be in VIN of Vette, motor should have a oil pan with side baffles and a windage tray bolted to extended main cap bolts. Crank will have a wide forging lines and rods may have paint marks on the beam (nothing really special about the rods, they are like Pink rods and I wouldn't re-use them myself), pistons should be forged. Heads will have pushrod guide plates and 2.02/1.60 valves but, being late light weight castings, unless your going NCRS, throw them into the dumpster as they are prone to cracking. Block is also not as desirable as a 75 or earlier block and should not be used for more than 450HP build-up.
They were also known as "crack-o-matics", but if you happen to find you need it, I've got one good 462624 head casting left, bare, dated May 31, 1978 (E 31 8).
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Stand it on it's end and rap it with a wrench, if it makes a nice ringing sound it's forged if it doesn't it's cast, or forged and cracked or cast and cracked
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by Roughrider
Not sure, but I'm under the impression that forged cranks were internally balanced and cast cranks were externally balanced.
No you can get them both either way, I had a 4340 forged 427ci small block crank that was externally balanced, I sold it. Scat makes an internally balanced 3.75in 9000 series cast crank for a couple of extamples
Cast surfaces look porous, kind of like sand on the surface, because, well...there was a sand mold that the liquid metal got poured into. Forged surfaces are smooth; they are not 'machined' but there is little surface texture, because a smooth-surfaced die pounded the he!! out of it.
All smallblock Chevy rods are forged. For the crank, look at an unmachined part of the crank, like along one of the counterweights. If the parting line is small, about the width of a toothpick, the crank is cast. If the line is wide, > 1/4" of an inch, this is the forging flash line where the metal was forced out of the dies when it was forged.
Look at a ballpeen hammer to get an example of a forging.
Look at the front of the crank- right behind the #1 bearing out to the 1st rod journal - if the line is wide it's forged. Narrow is cast. The line runs from the machined bearing surface to the journal.
Look at the front of the crank- right behind the #1 bearing out to the 1st rod journal - if the line is wide it's forged. Narrow is cast. The line runs from the machined bearing surface to the journal.
Stand it on it's end and rap it with a wrench, if it makes a nice ringing sound it's forged if it doesn't it's cast, or forged and cracked or cast and cracked
And if you stand it out in the sun, and see a shadow, you will have 6 more weeks of winter.