recently picked up some 8" bolts for the read, I searched a lot and lot's of people say cut from the bottom and the top of the spring. Confused.

Thanks.

 

8 inch bolts are for lowering the rear of the car. No need to cut the spring to lower the rear.

 

I was not clear, the 8" are for the rear, and now to bring the front down are you suppose to take from the bottom or top of the spring.

 

Cut the top of the coil. Start with 3/4 turn and go from there in 1/4 turn increments.

When you go to reinstall the cut coil, align the top of the coil in the perch-pocket of the frame, you'll see the missing paint on the frame pocket where the coil had been resting its original end cut, and let the bottom fall where it may in teh control arm.

Ive done this about 8 times now with this method and it works every time.

Good luck, have fun, and be safe!!

 

I cut mine just last weekend. I cut the bottom based on discussions here and to keep the top un-altered to ensure a proper fit back into the pocket at the top.

 

Cut the top of my 70's.
1-1/2 coil dropped it 2".

 

i guess it's 50-50 split more or else I thought by making this thread it give me better direction.

 

I suppose it could be looked at either way.

The important thing is to re-align the top of the coil into the frame perch, or you will get the 4X4 look.

 

Not my word, but that of Dick Guldstrand, "The closed end of the spring goes in the upper pocket." Seat the top properly and let the cut end (bottom) fall where it may in the lower A-arm pocket.


TSW

 

can anyone remove these and cut or is it too big a job for an amature. i have a 454 and the front sits too high. also one side is an inch higher than other. also why would it sit so high? its stock, did they come high from factory? if not why is it now?

 

Like many have already posted. check your springs and make sure that both of them are sitting in the pockets at the top. the top pocket where the spring sits has a dent for the coil to sit in. it sounds like the high side might not be in the pocket. also the top of the spring has a flat spot ground at the end of the coil so it sits in that dent so if you cut the spring cut the bottom since the top is what has to be perfect and not the bottom.

 

bottom..

 

Most original C3's sit high. I removed and cut my 70's with jack stands, a floor jack and big pry bar. One must have fairly good mechanical skill to perform, IMO.

 

I switched to a front mono spring and got the exact height and firmness I wanted.

 

Any links to step-by-step instructions on how to do this? Do I have to drop the lower a-arm?

 

You'd need to separte the ball joints with a pickle fork on the a-arms to gain spring access. you'd use a spring compresser or a jack under the lower a-arms to release the springs pressure. Don't unbolt either a-arm or your asking to get hurt.

I know theres a good "how to" guide out there with pictures. I reccomend finding it and study it before starting the task..

 

I've done a couple cars in the last few weeks.
On one, I cut the top and on the other the bottom. Doesn't really matter, it depends on how much you want to drop it. One coil cut from the top will lower it less than a coil from the bottom. Cutting a complete coil will seat them like original, if it works for you.

Put car on stands under the front horns (I place them under sway bar mounts).
Remove wheels.
Remove sway bar links.
Remove shocks.
Remove tie rod end from spindle or adjustment sleeve (count threads if doing sleeve, will need front alignment anyway).
Cut wooden spacers same width as front rotor to space brake pads, remove lower bump stop and remove caliper and hang behind front wheel with wire.
Place jack under a arm. Snug for safety.
Remove nut for top ball joint. Clean threads and lubricate so you can tighten finger tight.
Reinstall ball joint nut leaving 1/4" space between nut and spindle arm.
Use puller to loosen top ball joint. The spring pressure will help pop the joint loose and the nut will keep it from completely separating.
Jack up a arm to loosen and remove nut.
Slowly lower a arm and spring will come out.
This is a good time to clean up the sloppy welding splatter etc on the frame and a arms and repaint that area etc. Also to replace the lower control arm bushings for a couple bucks apiece and/or lower ball joints.

Cut spring with metal abrasive cutting disk on a grinder/circular saw and clean and paint etc. I use Rustoleum semi gloss oil base.

Mark position of spring end for pocket with masking tape.
Reinstall spring using an internal spring compressor (can rent it).
I clean all threads also use copper antisieze on all threads.

Reverse order to assemble.
Get front end alignment.

The hardest part for me is cleaning all the parts.

 

Great instructions, thank you!!
I notice you used a spring compressor in the photo but didnt mention that in the details? Will the spring still drop out without compressing it any?

 

Yes it will, might have to work getting it out as it's obviously a little longer. I've done it 3 times the way noonie described without a spring compressor. I just use the floor jack and lower arm to control the spring. Getting it back in can be harder without the compressor (depending on how much you cut off).


Great post NOONIE!! Gotta love pictures.

 

Caution. There's a lot of potential energy stored in the coil springs, even possibly at full droop depending on the springs' free length. (FWIW, I don't suggest ever running with slack front coils at full droop.) Use the compressor to take the load off of the A-arms before loosening them, and be safe.