Wheel Studs
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
Wheel Studs
I snapped some wheel studs on my rear wheel. So, now I'm looking on summit to replace them with ARP studs. Only thing is, I did a search, and can not for the life of me find the size I need for my car. I need them to be slightly longer than the stock ones, which is fine, but I can't find what width, thread count, etc. I don't own any measuring tools that could give me this info, either, as I imagine it has to be a bit more exact than your typical tape measure reading, right?
Also, this is gonna sound stupid...but how exactly do you get the old ones out, and the new ones in? Just hammer em out? And then the new ones pop in from the back side of the disk? I plan on doing all four wheels...
Also, this is gonna sound stupid...but how exactly do you get the old ones out, and the new ones in? Just hammer em out? And then the new ones pop in from the back side of the disk? I plan on doing all four wheels...
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 12
From: columbus oh
I snapped some wheel studs on my rear wheel. So, now I'm looking on summit to replace them with ARP studs. Only thing is, I did a search, and can not for the life of me find the size I need for my car. I need them to be slightly longer than the stock ones, which is fine, but I can't find what width, thread count, etc. I don't own any measuring tools that could give me this info, either, as I imagine it has to be a bit more exact than your typical tape measure reading, right?
Also, this is gonna sound stupid...but how exactly do you get the old ones out, and the new ones in? Just hammer em out? And then the new ones pop in from the back side of the disk? I plan on doing all four wheels...
Also, this is gonna sound stupid...but how exactly do you get the old ones out, and the new ones in? Just hammer em out? And then the new ones pop in from the back side of the disk? I plan on doing all four wheels...
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 2
From: MS
The original studs were 7/16" x 20 threads per inch x 2" overall length.
To get them out just hammer them out.
To get them in, slip them in from the back and use some washers to take up the
slack and pull them in with a lugnut until they seat fully.
To get the rears on you will have to fit them in through the backing plates
and parking brake assembly, tricky but can be done.
To get them out just hammer them out.
To get them in, slip them in from the back and use some washers to take up the
slack and pull them in with a lugnut until they seat fully.
To get the rears on you will have to fit them in through the backing plates
and parking brake assembly, tricky but can be done.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
I AM looking for something stronger, as I am running spacers, which tax the studs to begin with, and wider wheels, which adds yet more stress.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
The original studs were 7/16" x 20 threads per inch x 2" overall length.
To get them out just hammer them out.
To get them in, slip them in from the back and use some washers to take up the
slack and pull them in with a lugnut until they seat fully.
To get the rears on you will have to fit them in through the backing plates
and parking brake assembly, tricky but can be done.
To get them out just hammer them out.
To get them in, slip them in from the back and use some washers to take up the
slack and pull them in with a lugnut until they seat fully.
To get the rears on you will have to fit them in through the backing plates
and parking brake assembly, tricky but can be done.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,118
Likes: 3,914
From: Connecticut, USA
There is info on the 1/2-20 studs. Brett did his 68 on the car. You have to make a drill jig. I do them in the Bridgeport with just the spindle. For a stock setup use the 7/16-20 but get good lug nuts, the common ones roll the threads and lock up and will shear off the stud.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
As you've recently mentioned plans for tracking your car, which means you intend on abusing it, IMHO this is a good time go ahead and upgrade your studs to 1/2" x3". ...and don't skimp here.
TSW
TSW
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every Model vs Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
2027 Corvette Buyer's Guide: Everything You Need to Know!
Joe Kucinski
10 Things C8 Corvette Owners Hate (But Won't Tell You)
Joe Kucinski
10 Best Corvettes Coming to Barrett-Jackson Palm Beach 2026!
Brett Foote
Every Corvette Grand Sport Explained! (C2, C4, C6, C7, & C8)
Joe Kucinski
Grand Sport & Grand Sport X Launch Alongside All-New 535hp LS6 V8!
Michael S. Palmer
5 Reasons Bad Drivers Crash & 5 Ways to Avoid a Costly Mistake!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
There is info on the 1/2-20 studs. Brett did his 68 on the car. You have to make a drill jig. I do them in the Bridgeport with just the spindle. For a stock setup use the 7/16-20 but get good lug nuts, the common ones roll the threads and lock up and will shear off the stud.
Problem is....how do I get my car to you??? I don't really want to buy new studs just to be able to drive it to the place to get the old ones replaced, know what I mean?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
Imagine my surprise, when I limp her home, to find that not one, not two, but THREE studs busted off.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 12
From: columbus oh
Yeah....I was abusing it when they broke....there is this one nice road up here that I like to drive at around 6 am, no traffic, nice curves, nothing too sharp, and the road is smoooooooth. I hit the next to last turn before the road merges onto rout 8, probably doing somewhere between 75 and 85 mph. And felt the rear tire kinda skip...not a powerslide, but skipping, so I got off it, slowed down, and at slow speeds felt a wobble. I thought it was either tire preassure, or I lost a weight on one, or I thought a lug nut mighta got lost.
Imagine my surprise, when I limp her home, to find that not one, not two, but THREE studs busted off.
Imagine my surprise, when I limp her home, to find that not one, not two, but THREE studs busted off.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Yeah, I'd get rid of those things, tho I don't care all that much for adapters either. But, if you simply must run spacers, definitely go to larger studs and run long reach lug nuts if you can. Depending on where you go and how you are classed, you may find some organizations and/or tracks which prohibit their use altogether, and some which require open ended lug nuts so tech can see that the studs are properly engaged.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
I don't think they even MAKE 3 inch spacers, lol.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
Did I miss something? Is he running hard with spacers?
Yeah, I'd get rid of those things, tho I don't care all that much for adapters either. But, if you simply must run spacers, definitely go to larger studs and run long reach lug nuts if you can. Depending on where you go and how you are classed, you may find some organizations and/or tracks which prohibit their use altogether, and some which require open ended lug nuts so tech can see that the studs are properly engaged.
Yeah, I'd get rid of those things, tho I don't care all that much for adapters either. But, if you simply must run spacers, definitely go to larger studs and run long reach lug nuts if you can. Depending on where you go and how you are classed, you may find some organizations and/or tracks which prohibit their use altogether, and some which require open ended lug nuts so tech can see that the studs are properly engaged.
Why don't you care for adapters? Aside from heavily modifying the frame, how would I get large wheels to fit? Off set T arms would not work, as the wheel would still hit the frame...
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,716
Likes: 121
From: Sulphur LA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
I would say that a solid chunck of aluminum is fine for an adapter. The 7/16" stud in an ARP brand will be fine, If I remember right it has a higher tensel strength than the 1/2" standard stud. Studs that break are usually stressed form over tightning or the wheel is loose and has stressed the studs by shear forces from the wheel hitting it while moving around in the lug holes. The back and forth movement will thin the stud and reduce its shear strength.
I would suggest replacing them with 7/16" ARP studs and you should be fine for what you are doing.
Don't know the specifics of the studs
Neal
I would suggest replacing them with 7/16" ARP studs and you should be fine for what you are doing.
Don't know the specifics of the studs
Neal
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,404
Likes: 1
From: Ansonia/NYC CT
OK, so I found the width of the knurl, .485.
Can any PLEASE let me know if they know the length? I have scoured the web, but I don't know if google knows the answer to this one, lol. I ask, because a friend of a friend knows a guy in a shop who is willing to do some custom work for me, but first, I gots to know what I NEED>>>
Thanks, guys.
Can any PLEASE let me know if they know the length? I have scoured the web, but I don't know if google knows the answer to this one, lol. I ask, because a friend of a friend knows a guy in a shop who is willing to do some custom work for me, but first, I gots to know what I NEED>>>
Thanks, guys.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,118
Likes: 3,914
From: Connecticut, USA
The spindle flange is .437(7/16) so you want to be sure the knurl doesn't come past the flange. replacement stock studs have about .312 shoulder on them but the kurl is only about .125
If you use ARP # 100-7701 it has a .486 Kurl diam,7/16-20 thread,. 420 kurl length and 3.165 length you'll have to machine them shorter if you want because stock is 1.750 long.
If your friend is going to do them on the car then the longer the stud the more room you need and you have to be sure to get them perpendicular. If he is going to do them like I do in the mill then you still have to be sure you follow the bolt pattern, if you go off it will screw up the alignment.
If you use ARP # 100-7701 it has a .486 Kurl diam,7/16-20 thread,. 420 kurl length and 3.165 length you'll have to machine them shorter if you want because stock is 1.750 long.
If your friend is going to do them on the car then the longer the stud the more room you need and you have to be sure to get them perpendicular. If he is going to do them like I do in the mill then you still have to be sure you follow the bolt pattern, if you go off it will screw up the alignment.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 311
Likes: 0
From: West Newton PA
You can sneak the studs in without drilling a hole in the dust shields if you shorten the studs by a couple of threads. Grease the threads of the studs and use stacks of washers and a nut to pull the studs in. Get a few of the proper size nut. The threads wear out pulling the studs in. Be sure to use a torque wrench to put your lugs on. Torque them to the specification. Run it a few miles and torque them again. After a couple times, they should seat the whole way. It important to be sure so they don't loosen up and shear off again.