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Ok. I'm still new to my corvette and here. As you can see I haven't even posted pics yet. They are coming. The problem is, I have replaced every part of the brakes except the distribution block. Stainless steel lines, MC, Calipers, pads, rubber hoses,the valve in the booster, booster, and even the rubber pad on the pedal. I have enough pedal to hold it still in the driveway. I have enough to stop while just cruising around. When I put it in reverse it's as if they are not grabbing enough to keep it from jerking into gear. If I try to power brake it (brake torque) I pull right through the brakes. I have pump bled 6 times. I have gravity bled 2 times. I have power bled with the tool that connects to an air compressor 7 times. I have read TOM454 post and still have no clue.
hmmmmmmmmmm well usually a vette will clunk or hop/squat into gear when shifted. but you didnt change the distributon block why? maybe there is too much proportion to the front and thats whats causing the problem? usually on every car i had (non vette) when the dist valve went my BACK brakes were the ones to lock up or work instead of my fronts.
it sounds like you have it all taken care of so far the correct way. only other thing would be maybe a weak vacuum source?
When I pump the pedal quikly it builds slightly then goes to the floor. If I just keep depressing the pedal to the floor over and over again it goes to the floor everytime. It will build some pressure but it always fades. I changed everything but the block because it all needed replacing. The car was my dads and it sat unmoved for over three years.
Odd.. Did you bleed it from the inner ports on the rear calipers too? Maybe there's still air trapped on the inner half of the caliper (presuming its the same setup as mine)?
When I pump the pedal quikly it builds slightly then goes to the floor. If I just keep depressing the pedal to the floor over and over again it goes to the floor everytime. It will build some pressure but it always fades. I changed everything but the block because it all needed replacing. The car was my dads and it sat unmoved for over three years.
When you pump the pedal quickly and it builds up, that is a sign it still has air in it.
If you keep pumping it at a slower pace and it continues to go to the floor, then it is leaking internally in the mc.
The only other thing it could be as long as there are no external leaks is that it has a LOT of air in it, but since you bled it so many times that is doubtful.
Nonetheless, to test, cap off the ports on the mc with plugs and depress and hold the pedal, it should be rock hard and stay there if it is not leaking internally.
When you pump the pedal quickly and it builds up, that is a sign it still has air in it.
If you keep pumping it at a slower pace and it continues to go to the floor, then it is leaking internally in the mc.
The only other thing it could be as long as there are no external leaks is that it has a LOT of air in it, but since you bled it so many times that is doubtful.
Nonetheless, to test, cap off the ports on the mc with plugs and depress and hold the pedal, it should be rock hard and stay there if it is not leaking internally.
I agree, sounds like a bad MC to me since it won't hold pressure.
I would suspect the Master Cylinder is at fault. Remove and bench bleed repeatedly with the MC tilted slightly upwards, level, tilted slightly downwards and then level again. If no evidence of trapped air; replace the MC. Reliability of these replacement units is far from top notch!