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replacing the harmonic balancer and timing chain

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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 07:48 PM
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Default replacing the harmonic balancer and timing chain

im looking at replacing my HB and timing chain, but have a couple of simple questions.

reading through the aim, it all seems quite simple and straight forward, except for one part.

im seeing the mention of using quite a few special tools. are any of these actually neccasary? rentable? anything i need to know going into this?
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Socket set, torque wrench and a puller are about all the special tools.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Yes these tools can be rented. The harmonic balancer installer and removal tools are necessary, the rest are hand tools. It is pretty straight forward. When removing the timing chain cover you will have to pry it loose. Be careful not to distort the flange. Be careful when removing the sprockets and chain. Others will chime in soon.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:06 PM
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15 bucks for the HB puller from corvette central. i need to order a bunch of other things anyways, so ill probably just buy the damned thing and keep it on hand for future use.



now, any recommendations on who to buy the HB and TC from? or are they all the same, all the way from the 20 dollar one on ebay, to the 70 dollar one at napa? (the balancer that is, the TC and gear looks like its only about 20 bucks.)
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by another-user
15 bucks for the HB puller from corvette central. i need to order a bunch of other things anyways, so ill probably just buy the damned thing and keep it on hand for future use.



now, any recommendations on who to buy the HB and TC from? or are they all the same, all the way from the 20 dollar one on ebay, to the 70 dollar one at napa? (the balancer that is, the TC and gear looks like its only about 20 bucks.)
you want quality parts here....definitely a CLOYES double roller timing set and a factory balancer or one to spec for your year and engine..also if you have never attempted this before i would strongly suggest you pull the oil pan first.....then the front cover...go together in reverse order...that way the front seal will hold..you can attempt it without removing the pan but if you have never done it before you will probably get a leak and have to pull the cover again..maybe a friend has done this that could lend a hand?? good luck.......
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:40 PM
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i was planning on pulling the oil pan, ive got a leak there that ive been meaning to fix for some years.

as for the hb, they all say theyre built to factory spec, but theres no name on any of them and they all look identical and have the same specs.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by another-user
i was planning on pulling the oil pan, ive got a leak there that ive been meaning to fix for some years.

as for the hb, they all say theyre built to factory spec, but theres no name on any of them and they all look identical and have the same specs.
probably the main thing to look for here is the diameter and the location of the timing mark on the balancer...not all timing marks are lined up with the crank key.....
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 08:57 PM
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Just a suggestion.....I would drop the oil pan to do the timing chain cover, and replace the pan gasket with the Fel-Pro 1 piece gasket

Also look into buying/renting a harmonic balancer installer, makes the job much easier
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 09:14 PM
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i hate going cheap, but god, this looks like exactly what im looking for. judging from the pics, the 2 marks look like they line up.

i just get this nagging feeling its too good to be true.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_4396wt_1534
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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I went with an ATI Street Damper. If you have a high performance engine go with the Super Damper. Good products and made in the USA.

Be careful, a lot of the cheap dampers are made in China - maybe good, maybe not, maybe fly apart and cause a lot of expensive damage, or worse, take a head, foot or other body part off if it disintegrates while you are timing the engine, adjusting a carb,etc.

For a moderatley priced damper of good quality price a Pioneer brand. They are made in Australia and are OEM for a lot of car manufacturers both foreign and domestic. Just me, but I would not trust a no-name twenty dollar damper on my car. Autozone, Advanced, and I think NAPA's are Pioneer.

You will need a harmonic balancer installer as well as a puller. I use the set made by Lisle (made in the USA). I think it ran around forty dollars. Check the discount tool websites and eBay.

The old way was to beat the damper on with a block of wood and a hand sledge. Don't do that. It can cause all kinds of expensive damage.

Not a particularly hard job to do with the right tools.

Last edited by stock76; Apr 9, 2009 at 09:56 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 10:19 PM
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to get the crank gear off you might need a medium size 3 jaw puller. some crank gears come off easily, some do not. I agree with quality parts, best option.
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Old Apr 9, 2009 | 10:27 PM
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i was looking at those pioneers and scats, they both fall into the same price bracket. ill probably end up going with the pioneer.
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 09:18 AM
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There's a guy in Redding CA that rebuilds dampers back to factory specs. I had him rebuild three of mine. (from different cars) and he did a excellent job, very reasonably priced ans fast turn-a-round Not sure if I can name his business on this site. But I have his contact info.
steve
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by another-user
i hate going cheap, but god, this looks like exactly what im looking for. judging from the pics, the 2 marks look like they line up.

i just get this nagging feeling its too good to be true.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_4396wt_1534
RUN FORREST RUN!!!.........
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 12:22 PM
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NAPA is usually Doorman - a very well know company that makes a lot of replacement parts. I have used this balancer several times and it is a quality piece. Most recently, I put one my '79 last October. Price is reasonable and just about every NAPA has one the shelf and it has a warranty.
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mds3013
to get the crank gear off you might need a medium size 3 jaw puller. some crank gears come off easily, some do not. I agree with quality parts, best option.
Yep, a 2 jaw puller worked for me.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

Getting the crank gear back on is a different story. I used the balancer installer tool with a short piece of pipe. Worked like a charm.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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Whatever you do, DO NOT try to pull the balancer back onto the shaft using only the crank bolt that holds the balancer. It will likely strip the threads and then you are in for having to install a Helicoil or a pair of them one on top of the other.
Also bad to pound it back on with a hammer because you could damage the crank thrust surface and/or main bearings.
Definitely good advice as previously given by others to use the proper removal tool and the installation tool. You can check with Auto Zone, Pep Boys, etc for their tool loan program where you pay a deposit to borrow the tool(s).
It will also save you some headaches and work if you do not turn the engine over while the timing chain is off.
Terry
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 10:11 PM
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im stopping by autozone tomorrow afternoon to order the pioneer HB. i know on their website they list the hb removal tool, but didnt list the installer, so ill check on that while im there.
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 12:37 AM
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I highly recommend Damper Doc, as mentioned in the earlier post. He rebuilt and degreed my 7" 427 damper. You will be happy.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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just got the pioneer HB in this afternoon, and i already sent it back. the timing mark was about 3/4 of an inch off (clockwise) from the crank key.

if the second pioneer is the same way, im going to try the doremen (i think thats what it was called)


by the way, picked up the felpro once piece oilpan gasket. my god, that thing is amazing. im going to see if i can get those same gaskets for my valve covers.
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