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Spark plug change out

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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 07:57 PM
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Default Spark plug change out

I plan on changing the spark plugs on my 73 L82. Any tips, suggestions or special tools for making the job easier? 1st time I am tackling this job. Wires will also be changed at the same time.
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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A couple of the back ones come out easier from below.

Gary
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue73Shark
I plan on changing the spark plugs on my 73 L82. Any tips, suggestions or special tools for making the job easier? 1st time I am tackling this job. Wires will also be changed at the same time.
It is a pretty straightforward job. All of them can be had from above without significant difficulty. If you have AC 2 and 4 are harder to get at but still no biggie. I use:

3/8 straight ratchet
3/8 knuckle adapter
1 1/2" Extension
5/8 Plug socket with internal grommet

I always start the plug by hand and make sure it's not cross threaded before putting the wrench on it. Sometimes it is easier to put the plug in socket and then thread by hand without a ratchet or extension attached. Some guy's will tell you to use anti-seize or some other gunk but I never do. As long as your changing checking hem once a year and don't overtighten I never saw a need. I also never use a torque wrench on plugs but some guy's will recommend it.

Your car should take AC R44 TS and gap at .035

Hope this helps.
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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 11:03 PM
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3/8" drive ratchet, sockets, short/medium/long extensions, U-joint, a pair of mechanic's gloves, and plenty of Band-Aids. The worst part is removing and replacing all the spark plug heat shields and covers.
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 12:22 AM
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I spray a little WD40 into the plug treads to clean 'em up. A little anti-sieze is good. I start 'em with a rubber hose plug starter and thread 'em all the way down. Finish with ratchet. Iron heads are pretty forgiving; for aluminum heads a torque wrench is the way to go. Plus, I inherited a flex-head Snap-On which is really fun to use.
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff_Keryk
I spray a little WD40 into the plug treads to clean 'em up. A little anti-sieze is good. I start 'em with a rubber hose plug starter and thread 'em all the way down. Finish with ratchet. Iron heads are pretty forgiving; for aluminum heads a torque wrench is the way to go. Plus, I inherited a flex-head Snap-On which is really fun to use.
What torque setting do you use for aluminum?
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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Thanks all for the great info. Actually looking forward to the project.
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 05:31 PM
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Don't forget the 6-pack for the required mechanic lubrication.
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by croaker
What torque setting do you use for aluminum?
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dosoctaves
It is a pretty straightforward job. All of them can be had from above without significant difficulty. If you have AC 2 and 4 are harder to get at but still no biggie. I use:

3/8 straight ratchet
3/8 knuckle adapter
1 1/2" Extension
5/8 Plug socket with internal grommet

I always start the plug by hand and make sure it's not cross threaded before putting the wrench on it. Sometimes it is easier to put the plug in socket and then thread by hand without a ratchet or extension attached. Some guy's will tell you to use anti-seize or some other gunk but I never do. As long as your changing checking hem once a year and don't overtighten I never saw a need. I also never use a torque wrench on plugs but some guy's will recommend it.

Your car should take AC R44 TS and gap at .035

Hope this helps.
This is good advice but I would use R45 TS. For #s 2 and 4 under the A/C compressor I go in from the A-arm mud flap (wheel off) with a similar combination of u-joints and extensions. It's a bit of a pain but it does work. That comment re hand-threading initially is crucial. You want to get the threading right. As to torque, if it's tight it's tight.
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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I note that the R44TS and the R45TS (hotter plug) are recommended. Any advantages to using one over the other? L82 with AC and PS.
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 09:32 PM
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Aluminum heads - 12 to 15 pound feet. Check with head mfr. For iron heads 20...
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BTAL
Don't forget the 6-pack for the required mechanic lubrication.
LOL.......i second that suggestion!!! i just put a set of plugs in my 70' last night, no real biggie except the damn ignition shielding. no wonder everyone threw that stuff away at the first tune-up! btw.....#5 and #7 plug are definitely easier to get to from below. have fun!
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Old Apr 12, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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Changing the plugs is the least of your concerns. Changing wires is where you will need the advice. (Assuming the original routing is to be maintained.)
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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Default Spark plug wire change out

Originally Posted by BKbroiler
Changing the plugs is the least of your concerns. Changing wires is where you will need the advice. (Assuming the original routing is to be maintained.)
OK - ready for the spark plug wire change out advice. Assume original routing is maintained
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Old Apr 13, 2009 | 02:50 PM
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Wire advice: Take the [distributor end] boots off, then run them from below to the rear of the engine and up. Strip all of the chrome stuff out before you start running wire...they you can use some nice chrome polish on them, too. Once you run the front two (on each side) down through the motor mounts, it's not too bad. Take some time to figure out which wires will go into which holes in the wire-loom grommets. If they are wired properly, the wires feed up those rear chrome supports better.
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