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I plan on changing the spark plugs on my 73 L82. Any tips, suggestions or special tools for making the job easier? 1st time I am tackling this job. Wires will also be changed at the same time.
I plan on changing the spark plugs on my 73 L82. Any tips, suggestions or special tools for making the job easier? 1st time I am tackling this job. Wires will also be changed at the same time.
It is a pretty straightforward job. All of them can be had from above without significant difficulty. If you have AC 2 and 4 are harder to get at but still no biggie. I use:
I always start the plug by hand and make sure it's not cross threaded before putting the wrench on it. Sometimes it is easier to put the plug in socket and then thread by hand without a ratchet or extension attached. Some guy's will tell you to use anti-seize or some other gunk but I never do. As long as your changing checking hem once a year and don't overtighten I never saw a need. I also never use a torque wrench on plugs but some guy's will recommend it.
3/8" drive ratchet, sockets, short/medium/long extensions, U-joint, a pair of mechanic's gloves, and plenty of Band-Aids. The worst part is removing and replacing all the spark plug heat shields and covers.
I spray a little WD40 into the plug treads to clean 'em up. A little anti-sieze is good. I start 'em with a rubber hose plug starter and thread 'em all the way down. Finish with ratchet. Iron heads are pretty forgiving; for aluminum heads a torque wrench is the way to go. Plus, I inherited a flex-head Snap-On which is really fun to use.
I spray a little WD40 into the plug treads to clean 'em up. A little anti-sieze is good. I start 'em with a rubber hose plug starter and thread 'em all the way down. Finish with ratchet. Iron heads are pretty forgiving; for aluminum heads a torque wrench is the way to go. Plus, I inherited a flex-head Snap-On which is really fun to use.
It is a pretty straightforward job. All of them can be had from above without significant difficulty. If you have AC 2 and 4 are harder to get at but still no biggie. I use:
I always start the plug by hand and make sure it's not cross threaded before putting the wrench on it. Sometimes it is easier to put the plug in socket and then thread by hand without a ratchet or extension attached. Some guy's will tell you to use anti-seize or some other gunk but I never do. As long as your changing checking hem once a year and don't overtighten I never saw a need. I also never use a torque wrench on plugs but some guy's will recommend it.
Your car should take AC R44 TS and gap at .035
Hope this helps.
This is good advice but I would use R45 TS. For #s 2 and 4 under the A/C compressor I go in from the A-arm mud flap (wheel off) with a similar combination of u-joints and extensions. It's a bit of a pain but it does work. That comment re hand-threading initially is crucial. You want to get the threading right. As to torque, if it's tight it's tight.
Don't forget the 6-pack for the required mechanic lubrication.
LOL.......i second that suggestion!!! i just put a set of plugs in my 70' last night, no real biggie except the damn ignition shielding. no wonder everyone threw that stuff away at the first tune-up! btw.....#5 and #7 plug are definitely easier to get to from below. have fun!
Changing the plugs is the least of your concerns. Changing wires is where you will need the advice. (Assuming the original routing is to be maintained.)
Changing the plugs is the least of your concerns. Changing wires is where you will need the advice. (Assuming the original routing is to be maintained.)
OK - ready for the spark plug wire change out advice. Assume original routing is maintained
Wire advice: Take the [distributor end] boots off, then run them from below to the rear of the engine and up. Strip all of the chrome stuff out before you start running wire...they you can use some nice chrome polish on them, too. Once you run the front two (on each side) down through the motor mounts, it's not too bad. Take some time to figure out which wires will go into which holes in the wire-loom grommets. If they are wired properly, the wires feed up those rear chrome supports better.