Need sway bars!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,043
Likes: 1
From: Elkhorn WI
Re: Need sway bars! (clutchdust)
lower in his post he mentions he has a '75 L48.... :D
I now have a 1975 L48 near mint with '90 seats and an edelbrock Performer rpm with tru duels. A T350 and 3.08 gears. Spring plans are to paint it and drop in a ZZ4 crate soon.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Re: Need sway bars! (Jazn74)
I'm talking about my 75. I totaled my 90 this past summer. So you guys recommend 1 1/8 for the front . Do I need one on the back with the 9 leaf spring?
Or should I add one in the back like a small one 5/8 or 7/8? Should I leave the 9 spring or should I replace it eith the new fiberglass ones.
Please help I'm still confused. Do I even need one on the back? :confused:
Or should I add one in the back like a small one 5/8 or 7/8? Should I leave the 9 spring or should I replace it eith the new fiberglass ones.
Please help I'm still confused. Do I even need one on the back? :confused:
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,752
Likes: 1
Re: Need sway bars! (Racer-X)
Crafting a nice C-3 is like crafting a nice beer - everyone has their own magic combination. :) Err, something like that. :jester Anyway, my preference is big 1 1/8" sway bar on the front, 550 front springs, 330lb rear fiberglass spring, no sway bar in the rear. YMMV.
good luck
-terry
good luck
-terry
Pro
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Re: Need sway bars! (Racer-X)
Please help I'm still confused.
If I use a large 1 1/8 in the front. Do I even need one on the back?
Or should I install a fiberglass spring on back without a stabaliser bar?
Or just leave my 9 leaf spring in back with a large stabaliser in front.
I want to go the cheap way out without spending needless money.
I want the car to handle good around corners, just for street driving.
I noticed alot of you have diffrent set ups.
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
If I use a large 1 1/8 in the front. Do I even need one on the back?
Or should I install a fiberglass spring on back without a stabaliser bar?
Or just leave my 9 leaf spring in back with a large stabaliser in front.
I want to go the cheap way out without spending needless money.
I want the car to handle good around corners, just for street driving.
I noticed alot of you have diffrent set ups.
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Re: Need sway bars! (Ganey)
Racer-X
Did you see my website 77Facts for the handling performance of last version of FE-7 for 68-77? The factory has a very well engineered setup. You could get FE-7 Ft. & Rr. bars first. If you like, then go to VB rear spring. If you want more then FE-7 Ft. springs & VB equil. rear.
:cool:
Did you see my website 77Facts for the handling performance of last version of FE-7 for 68-77? The factory has a very well engineered setup. You could get FE-7 Ft. & Rr. bars first. If you like, then go to VB rear spring. If you want more then FE-7 Ft. springs & VB equil. rear.
:cool:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
Re: Need sway bars! (Racer-X)
On the cheap, I would suggest OE stabars, poly bushings and 245/60/15s front and 255/60/15 rears (BFG T/As are an excellent value) and Delco React shocks from VB. Also replace the steering idler arm with a HD unit.
You won't need a rear bar until you add the ZZ4.
[Modified by flynhi, 8:09 AM 2/5/2002]
You won't need a rear bar until you add the ZZ4.
[Modified by flynhi, 8:09 AM 2/5/2002]
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Re: Need sway bars! (Racer-X)
Performance
A good standard of handling is the Road & Track slalom course.
77 sets new record in 77 with 63.6 mph. "hampered by stock air pressures"
Surprisingly, R & T did not try or publish performance with increased air pressure.
They were aware stock air pressures were meant to keep the less astute out of the weeds.
For reference, Mario Andretti turned 63.4 in a 1999 Corvette.
R/T article http://ganeys.home.sprynet.com/R&T77.htm
Above from my website 77Facts.
Later a Ferrari 512BB matched the 77 FE-7. This is better than some C4.
Compare only to R/T tests.
:cool:
Anyone else who cannot access my website?
A good standard of handling is the Road & Track slalom course.
77 sets new record in 77 with 63.6 mph. "hampered by stock air pressures"
Surprisingly, R & T did not try or publish performance with increased air pressure.
They were aware stock air pressures were meant to keep the less astute out of the weeds.
For reference, Mario Andretti turned 63.4 in a 1999 Corvette.
R/T article http://ganeys.home.sprynet.com/R&T77.htm
Above from my website 77Facts.
Later a Ferrari 512BB matched the 77 FE-7. This is better than some C4.
Compare only to R/T tests.
:cool:
Anyone else who cannot access my website?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,399
Likes: 278
From: Olmsted Falls, Ohio
Re: Need sway bars! (Ganey)
On my FE-7 car I have the stock 1-1/8" front and a 7/16" rear bars. The end mounting link is bent on the rear bar, and I was thinking of replacing it with a 5/8" bar.
Does anyone see a problem with this?
Does anyone see a problem with this?
Thread Starter
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,665
Likes: 2
From: Twin Cities Minnesota
Re: Need sway bars! (Racer-X)
So Vette brakes recommends a 3/4" sway bar in their catalog vs the 7/16 you guys are recomending.
Why would I _not_ want to use a bigger bar in back??
Why would I _not_ want to use a bigger bar in back??
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 18,126
Likes: 174
From: WI
Re: Need sway bars! (427V8)
Keith,
Sway bars work with each other if the front bar is too big then the car will plow in a corner, road racers call this condition understeer and the stock car guys call it push or tight. If the rear bar is too big then the back end will come around too fast, road racers call this condition oversteer and the stock car guys call this loose. I like Vette Brakes, but they "recommend" what they have for sale they do not "recommend" the 7/16 or 9/16 rear bars because the people who actually make the "generic" bars that VB sells don`t make them in 7/16 or 9/16. Just some food for thought!! ..redvetracr
Sway bars work with each other if the front bar is too big then the car will plow in a corner, road racers call this condition understeer and the stock car guys call it push or tight. If the rear bar is too big then the back end will come around too fast, road racers call this condition oversteer and the stock car guys call this loose. I like Vette Brakes, but they "recommend" what they have for sale they do not "recommend" the 7/16 or 9/16 rear bars because the people who actually make the "generic" bars that VB sells don`t make them in 7/16 or 9/16. Just some food for thought!! ..redvetracr
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
Likes: 14
From: Austin TX
Re: Need sway bars! (427V8)
I found the formula for this a while back and ran the numbers. A 3/4" rear stabar has over twice the resistance as a 5/8" bar. Addco publishes a chart that verifies this.
I was experiencing dramatic oversteer and end swapping with a 3/4" bar so I switched to a 5/8" and it's just right.
IMHO, the heavier bar defeats the IRS and the rear becomes more of a straight axle.
My experience is that, with a small block, a 1 1/8' front and 5/8" rear are just right for street use.
I was experiencing dramatic oversteer and end swapping with a 3/4" bar so I switched to a 5/8" and it's just right.
IMHO, the heavier bar defeats the IRS and the rear becomes more of a straight axle.
My experience is that, with a small block, a 1 1/8' front and 5/8" rear are just right for street use.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Re: Need sway bars! (KenSny)
On my FE-7 car I have the stock 1-1/8" front and a 7/16" rear bars. The end mounting link is bent on the rear bar, and I was thinking of replacing it with a 5/8" bar.
Does anyone see a problem with this?
Does anyone see a problem with this?
Yes.
When you start changing things you become the designer/engineer so you need a reason to make a change. You want a balanced setup.
A race car driver can get a change ASAP by mentioning one of the magic words. For example "!$# $%*&# !* loose !".
Even though only 1 word was intelligible, that's enough.
:cool:
Race Director
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 11,520
Likes: 13
From: CORVETTE 77 385 C.I. TEXAS
Re: Need sway bars! (Racer-X)
O.K. I get the picture with the sway bars, thank you.
Now how about the rear spring. Should I keep the 9 leaf spring? Why would I want or not want to change it?
Now how about the rear spring. Should I keep the 9 leaf spring? Why would I want or not want to change it?
You want a balanced setup. If the stock spring rate is fine for you, then you could replace the rear spring to reduce wt. w/ VB. If more is wanted then replace FT. & RR. springs w/ FE-7 & equil. VB rear.
The spring rate also affects. When I was a kid I wanted my 57 Chevy Hot Rod to handle like a sports car (really wanted a Vette). It had no ft. or rear bars & needed a cheap solution. Also to transfer wt. to rear so how cheap- not best could it be done- simple bought station wagon ft. springs for about $20. Then paid a man to install. After he passed my verbal test to see if he knew what he was doing- guess that might have been embarrassing for him in an auto parts store w/ everybody listening. I didn't want him to kill himself for a few dollars- no spring compressor :smash: . Total about maybe $85 ! Actually over did it a little w/ the lift kit. :eek: Nevertheless It Worked Great !
:cool:
Racer
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: Glacier County mt
Re: Need sway bars! (Ganey)
Suggest the Herb Adams sway bars. Herb Adams was a G.M. suspension design engineer - and a Vette enthusiast. The bars have heim joint ends - so they are stiff, noisy and not too forgiving for a car mainly driven on the street.
:cheers:
:cheers: