spark plug wires keep burning up from header heat
06-09-2009, 10:29 PM
#22
Race Director
Thread Starter
update... wish I wasn't posting this.... BUT... the new boots fried also.. 
they went longer but they finally fried .... now I am going to try the Jacobs ceramic boots and wires... There black but I seem to have no choice... I will update when the boots and wires come in, and then after a good 3 hour hunt and destroy mission around pch and the 405
on these hot summer days...
they went longer but they finally fried .... now I am going to try the Jacobs ceramic boots and wires... There black but I seem to have no choice... I will update when the boots and wires come in, and then after a good 3 hour hunt and destroy mission around pch and the 405 on these hot summer days...
06-09-2009, 11:21 PM
#23
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2002
Location: Sulphur LA
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19
update... wish I wasn't posting this.... BUT... the new boots fried also.. they went longer but they finally fried .... now I am going to try the Jacobs ceramic boots and wires... There black but I seem to have no choice... I will update when the boots and wires come in, and then after a good 3 hour hunt and destroy mission around pch and the 405 on these hot summer days...
they went longer but they finally fried .... now I am going to try the Jacobs ceramic boots and wires... There black but I seem to have no choice... I will update when the boots and wires come in, and then after a good 3 hour hunt and destroy mission around pch and the 405 on these hot summer days...Keep us posted on how they work.
Neal
06-10-2009, 12:24 AM
#24
Melting Slicks
I placed an order for the Ceramic Accel 9002C 115 degree on Amazon. They are out of stock, but $114.91 with free shipping. I have time before I need them so I'll wait for them to get back in stock.
06-11-2009, 01:02 AM
#25
Race Director
Thread Starter
Ok... went to the local speed shop today to see if they had the Jacobs ceramic and what they thought... here is what I was told,,
..."We used to carry those wires but the plug wires would burn off the boot, the boot stayed in great condition, so we keep getting them back, so we finally stopped carrying them"
now with that said to me.. I saw they had these silver mettle boot covers.
So here is what I did, I put the steal sleeve boot covers over my blue fiberglass boot covers which went over my new high heat boots....
here are the pics and I will post after the next hot run this week or when they, if they, go bad...
you sure can tell when they go bad... car runs like poo
..."We used to carry those wires but the plug wires would burn off the boot, the boot stayed in great condition, so we keep getting them back, so we finally stopped carrying them"
now with that said to me.. I saw they had these silver mettle boot covers.
So here is what I did, I put the steal sleeve boot covers over my blue fiberglass boot covers which went over my new high heat boots....
here are the pics and I will post after the next hot run this week or when they, if they, go bad...
you sure can tell when they go bad... car runs like poo
06-11-2009, 07:09 AM
#26
Le Mans Master
update... wish I wasn't posting this.... BUT... the new boots fried also.. they went longer but they finally fried .... now I am going to try the Jacobs ceramic boots and wires... There black but I seem to have no choice... I will update when the boots and wires come in, and then after a good 3 hour hunt and destroy mission around pch and the 405 on these hot summer days...
they went longer but they finally fried .... now I am going to try the Jacobs ceramic boots and wires... There black but I seem to have no choice... I will update when the boots and wires come in, and then after a good 3 hour hunt and destroy mission around pch and the 405 on these hot summer days...
06-11-2009, 07:13 AM
#27
Drifting
Paul, I hope it works but steel will be just as hot on one side as the other. You need a thermal insulator not a conductor.
Maybe put something like this ultra ceramic gasket material between the wire and your steel sleeve, it good to 2600 deg. and pretty thin. I've never done this, it's just an idea but it would keep the heat away from the wire and boot.
Kind of expensive though............
http://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-gasket-sheets/=29odhq
Maybe put something like this ultra ceramic gasket material between the wire and your steel sleeve, it good to 2600 deg. and pretty thin. I've never done this, it's just an idea but it would keep the heat away from the wire and boot.
Kind of expensive though............
http://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-gasket-sheets/=29odhq
06-11-2009, 07:47 AM
#28
Racer
I posted my trick a while back. Here it is again. My 75' 4x4 constantly burned through the spark plug boots. I run Percy's header gaskets. They are the aluminum ones and don't blow out if something loosens up. Suddenly I thought hmm why not double stack them. No leaks, and I never burned another boot. FYI, I never tried the red boots, only had MSD gray. It may be worth a try, it worked for me.
06-11-2009, 08:36 AM
#29
Team Owner
Years ago I had some really insidious plug boot burns, and so went for 8 Jacobs ceramic boots, problem solved, just slid them over the wires that were on the car, and sealed the wire ends with RTV to keep moisture outta there.....
works well for some 3 years now...
works well for some 3 years now...
06-11-2009, 02:51 PM
#31
Race Director
Thread Starter
Paul, I hope it works but steel will be just as hot on one side as the other. You need a thermal insulator not a conductor.
the tubs have some sort of insolator on the back side, and there rigitaty keeps them from touching the header, and works goos(i hope) for IR heat transmission..
Maybe put something like this ultra ceramic gasket material between the wire and your steel sleeve, it good to 2600 deg. and pretty thin. I've never done this, it's just an idea but it would keep the heat away from the wire and boot.
Kind of expensive though............
http://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-gasket-sheets/=29odhq
the tubs have some sort of insolator on the back side, and there rigitaty keeps them from touching the header, and works goos(i hope) for IR heat transmission..
Maybe put something like this ultra ceramic gasket material between the wire and your steel sleeve, it good to 2600 deg. and pretty thin. I've never done this, it's just an idea but it would keep the heat away from the wire and boot.
Kind of expensive though............
http://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-gasket-sheets/=29odhq
I posted my trick a while back. Here it is again. My 75' 4x4 constantly burned through the spark plug boots. I run Percy's header gaskets. They are the aluminum ones and don't blow out if something loosens up. Suddenly I thought hmm why not double stack them. No leaks, and I never burned another boot. FYI, I never tried the red boots, only had MSD gray. It may be worth a try, it worked for me.
06-11-2009, 04:19 PM
#32
Le Mans Master
do you mean to much timing? im at 36* max
no i mean not enough....too much retard will increase exhaust temp.....or restricted exhaust.....what is your timing at cruise??.....36 total is meaningless if you are not running enough at cruise, at cruise and off idle....
no i mean not enough....too much retard will increase exhaust temp.....or restricted exhaust.....what is your timing at cruise??.....36 total is meaningless if you are not running enough at cruise, at cruise and off idle....
06-12-2009, 01:23 AM
#33
Melting Slicks
Jet Hot is a ceramic coating that works as a heat barrier. The surface temp of your headers can run several hundred degrees cooler with this coating. In other words it keeps the heat inside the headers instead of on the outside. It will make a big difference in the under hood temps and the temp of the floors under your feet too. It also looks good.
Do you have a vacuum advance on your distributor? If not you may be running a little retarded at cruise and this will make for higher exhaust temps. At what RPM is your mechanical advance all in and what is your initial timing at?
Do you have a vacuum advance on your distributor? If not you may be running a little retarded at cruise and this will make for higher exhaust temps. At what RPM is your mechanical advance all in and what is your initial timing at?
06-12-2009, 01:33 AM
#34
Race Director
Thread Starter
do you mean to much timing? im at 36* max
no i mean not enough....too much retard will increase exhaust temp.....or restricted exhaust.....what is your timing at cruise??.....36 total is meaningless if you are not running enough at cruise, at cruise and off idle....
no i mean not enough....too much retard will increase exhaust temp.....or restricted exhaust.....what is your timing at cruise??.....36 total is meaningless if you are not running enough at cruise, at cruise and off idle....
Jet Hot is a ceramic coating that works as a heat barrier. The surface temp of your headers can run several hundred degrees cooler with this coating. In other words it keeps the heat inside the headers instead of on the outside. It will make a big difference in the under hood temps and the temp of the floors under your feet too. It also looks good.
Do you have a vacuum advance on your distributor? If not you may be running a little retarded at cruise and this will make for higher exhaust temps. At what RPM is your mechanical advance all in and what is your initial timing at?
Do you have a vacuum advance on your distributor? If not you may be running a little retarded at cruise and this will make for higher exhaust temps. At what RPM is your mechanical advance all in and what is your initial timing at?
.. I always thought to much timing makes it run hotter... yes I have both mechanical and vacuum advance. Not sure what the timing is at cruse so I will check it tomorrow.
... should i check at around 3,000 rpm... and then bring max up to 38*?this heat stuff... is it a spray on? a wrap on? or??? do you have a picture of it in use and a web-address to buy it?... thx
06-12-2009, 12:59 PM
#35
Melting Slicks
ok... im learning something new here... I always thought to much timing makes it run hotter... yes I have both mechanical and vacuum advance. Not sure what the timing is at cruse so I will check it tomorrow.... should i check at around 3,000 rpm... and then bring max up to 38*?
this heat stuff... is it a spray on? a wrap on? or??? do you have a picture of it in use and a web-address to buy it?... thx
.. I always thought to much timing makes it run hotter... yes I have both mechanical and vacuum advance. Not sure what the timing is at cruse so I will check it tomorrow.... should i check at around 3,000 rpm... and then bring max up to 38*?this heat stuff... is it a spray on? a wrap on? or??? do you have a picture of it in use and a web-address to buy it?... thx
Max timing should be good between 34 to 36. The issue would be more about what rpm your distributor comes all in mechanical and how much timing increase your vacuum advance is giving you at cruise.
06-12-2009, 01:07 PM
#36
Safety Car
You can get headers glowing cherry red without enough timing. I'd make sure the distributor weights are operating freely and the vacuum advance is working. I've had good luck timing by ear. Just advance it until you notice some detonation under load (you'll know it when you hear it) and then back it off some.
06-15-2009, 02:54 PM
#37
Race Director
Thread Starter
If you look at my avatar you will see my engine with Jet Hot coated headers. It is applied similar to powder coating then baked in a big oven. You would have to remove your headers and send them to Jet Hot or one of there authorized dealers.
Max timing should be good between 34 to 36. The issue would be more about what rpm your distributor comes all in mechanical and how much timing increase your vacuum advance is giving you at cruise.
Max timing should be good between 34 to 36. The issue would be more about what rpm your distributor comes all in mechanical and how much timing increase your vacuum advance is giving you at cruise.
You can get headers glowing cherry red without enough timing. I'd make sure the distributor weights are operating freely and the vacuum advance is working. I've had good luck timing by ear. Just advance it until you notice some detonation under load (you'll know it when you hear it) and then back it off some.
06-15-2009, 04:05 PM
#38
Le Mans Master
