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spark plug wires keep burning up from header heat
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
spark plug wires keep burning up from header heat
have already gone to the shorty Accell spark plugs, have tried both 90deg, and straight plug connectors, put heat boots on the plug wires, and they still fry and break down in about 500mi... or so....
the wires I have been using are Malory 8.5 both 90 deg and stright, spiral wound.
Is there a better plug wire/boot that can take the header heat?
thx.
the wires I have been using are Malory 8.5 both 90 deg and stright, spiral wound.
Is there a better plug wire/boot that can take the header heat?
thx.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 45
From: Cameron Park CA
If they are routed like in your avatar, try running them under the headers. Heat rises, so by running them low, the heat won't get to them as much. I have Moroso Blu-Max spiral wound under my Hookers. I did put some heat insulation around the wires passing under #4 & #6 pipes because the clearance is tight there. The rest of the wires are uncovered, just routed carefully. They are uncovered and still pliable and supple. So far, so good.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
90% chance that in fact the OP is referring to the BOOT over the plug end of the wire....and those are the primary failure point over which little or no control exists for the installation....
the only cure I know of is Jacobs ceramic boot ends....
cured my problems....
I fill the ends going into the ceramic with RTV that seals out ALL moisture of ANY type....
the only cure I know of is Jacobs ceramic boot ends....
cured my problems....
I fill the ends going into the ceramic with RTV that seals out ALL moisture of ANY type....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 12
From: columbus oh
hey paul...check "baby's " total timing..many times a retarded or incorrect curve in the dizzy will do exactly what you have.....other posters are correct in routing and that you have a premium wire set....the fact that the mill is not over heating and the wires are, is a good indication of slow timing...good luck......
Last edited by midyearvette; Apr 16, 2009 at 11:48 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 12
From: columbus oh
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,155
Likes: 0
From: San Diego California
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
90% chance that in fact the OP is referring to the BOOT over the plug end of the wire....and those are the primary failure point over which little or no control exists for the installation....
the only cure I know of is Jacobs ceramic boot ends....
cured my problems....
I fill the ends going into the ceramic with RTV that seals out ALL moisture of ANY type....
the only cure I know of is Jacobs ceramic boot ends....
cured my problems....
I fill the ends going into the ceramic with RTV that seals out ALL moisture of ANY type....
FUJAWI...... VERY nice looking!! but I do not think the under thing will work any better, being it is the boot itself that is frying!!!
chvet73... Already running them... not enough, but helps.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 4
From: Somers CT
If the above hasen't worked out you might want to look at the 'Wrench Rat" extension. It does require about the same room as the boot but it's porcelain. I have one and it seems to do the job but they're a little pricey if you need to do the whole motor.
http://wrenchrat.com/sparkarm/
http://wrenchrat.com/sparkarm/
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
If the above hasen't worked out you might want to look at the 'Wrench Rat" extension. It does require about the same room as the boot but it's porcelain. I have one and it seems to do the job but they're a little pricey if you need to do the whole motor.
http://wrenchrat.com/sparkarm/
http://wrenchrat.com/sparkarm/
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,431
Likes: 52
From: Florida
I switched to the orange/rust colored high temp boot ends from MSD with good results.... the grey silicone MSD boots fried/crystalized even with fiberglass sleeves
http://beta.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8852/
http://beta.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8852/
Last edited by jimvette999; Apr 17, 2009 at 10:45 AM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
I switched to the orange/rust colored high temp boot ends from MSD with good results.... the grey silicone MSD boots fried/crystalized even with fiberglass sleeves
http://beta.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8852/
http://beta.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8852/
thx...p:-)
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,431
Likes: 52
From: Florida
these are the grey ones I took off
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
I certainly did use them.... just took a razor blade and split and slid grey silicone boots off, used a little di-electric grease on the crimped wire ends and slid new boots on. 3 years now and not a scorch to be found. They are extreme duty high temp compound. If those hadn't worked I was going to use the porcelain ones.
these are the grey ones I took off
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
these are the grey ones I took off
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
But.... thoes Jacob wires do sound good... hmmmm think thin think...
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,431
Likes: 52
From: Florida
Yea... the grey is what I have also... Seems to be a cheaper fix than the ceramic Jacobs wire... I guess if it works that is all that is needed..., I will order them today unless someone chimes in that they also have problems. Then post the results... I getting tired of fixing the same problem over and over again...
But.... thoes Jacob wires do sound good... hmmmm think thin think...
But.... thoes Jacob wires do sound good... hmmmm think thin think...
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
ps..the jacobs are not red... bummer... need red p:-)
Last edited by pauldana; May 2, 2009 at 12:16 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
I certainly did use them.... just took a razor blade and split and slid grey silicone boots off, used a little di-electric grease on the crimped wire ends and slid new boots on. 3 years now and not a scorch to be found. They are extreme duty high temp compound. If those hadn't worked I was going to use the porcelain ones.
these are the grey ones I took off
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
these are the grey ones I took off
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
Last update on this unless something goes wrong or a question is asked.
I changed the spark-plug boots to the high heat ones mentioned above, I also have the fiberglass booties on that cover the rubber high-heat boots. Took it on a grueling 6 hour run in 100 degree wether, checked the boots... All is good... the grey boots would have been TOAST, I mean chard toast! and these new red ones seem and look fine. ... so, problem solved... new high heat boots and fiberglass boot covers, no char--so far.
I changed the spark-plug boots to the high heat ones mentioned above, I also have the fiberglass booties on that cover the rubber high-heat boots. Took it on a grueling 6 hour run in 100 degree wether, checked the boots... All is good... the grey boots would have been TOAST, I mean chard toast! and these new red ones seem and look fine. ... so, problem solved... new high heat boots and fiberglass boot covers, no char--so far.