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the ones without the gr. fittings are usually HD, stronger. i always replace the halfshaft units with non greaseables. the other ones are prone to break under hard acceleration.
the ones without the gr. fittings are usually HD, stronger. i always replace the halfshaft units with non greaseables. the other ones are prone to break under hard acceleration.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Originally Posted by speedreed8
the ones without the gr. fittings are usually HD, stronger. i always replace the halfshaft units with non greaseables. the other ones are prone to break under hard acceleration.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
It's not that black and white. What are you using your car for? I've run both types of u-joints in my '69 over the years. Never had a problem with either type. Road course stuff is my thing, so my drivetrain isn't subjected to hi-RPM clutch dumps on a regular basis.
Unless your '73 is extremely warmed over, you're probably fine with either type.
Use Spicer solids, 5-799x. Just be careful installing them. Look up my thread on how to do the job and you'll be ok.
Check a local dealer they may stock them.
I am looking also at Autozones duralast gold. not grease fitting they are 17.00 and lifetime
This is my 2c and nothing more BUT
that's a false economy. Duntov sells the Spicers for $50/pair for the halfshaft joints, with free shipping, and $46/pair for the driveshaft joints. If you don't believe me call your nearest driveline shop. I'm betting they will tell you $8 bucks more for the Spicer joint is money well spent. I recently did mine, and the difference in quality between the joints that were on the car (they were replacements, not factory, put on by a PO, don't know the brand) and the Spicers was obvious.