Bence,
Look at the Richmond 6 with OD. I know it list a $1k more than the 5 but it comes with the Long shifter and the 5 spd shifter is $413 list so the difference is less than $600. Plus you don't have to swap rear ends if you need that OD. :smash:

For U-joints, try Autozone. I got all 6 u-joints for $83 (Brute Force with no grease fittings). Good luck with the big block.

 

If you are replacing the rod bolts don't they normally like to resize the big end of the rods. I replaced mine at the time the rods were resized. If these rods are new do you really need to replace the bolts? Rpm is what kills rod bolts not load.
As for the transmission the richmond is not a overdrive so your rearend is a compromise. Go with a overdrive and you can run go gears in the rearend. Why not the tremec TKO. I have seen them for under $1500 american. It has a great first and .68 overdrive so even 4.11s become 2.8s on the highway.
Good luck Bence
From your posts I see you are learning.

 

There is one issue with the ROD that kept me from seriously considering it. You have to hack up the crossmember if you have a manual car. Once you ROD, you can never go back :) A chopped and welded cross member is a pretty major mod that makes it hard to return to original....

The ROD also requires a custom driveshaft, so the price difference is actually more than $600. That said, I would have probably gone with the Tremec if I didn't find my Richmond 5 for $1000 (+$450 for a brand new Long shifter.) I don't really see the need for 6 gears in a C3, at least for the way I drive. The Tremec gear spacing would be fine and much more affordable.

-Joe


[Modified by Flareside, 9:16 AM 2/4/2002]

 

Flareside is right about crossmember modifications, but it sure makes pulling transmissions out easier, plus, if you go to a different type transmission, like the ROD, or even the 5 speed, a removable crossmember is the way to go. I would talk with Bob Turner about his ROD install or Norval about his Tremec 5 speed.

I ran a Doug Nash 5 speed (Now Richmond Gears) years back with a welded crossmember and I recall it being a little more difficult to remove and install without pulling the motor (true Flareside?). I do know that you will have to tighten up the glutes a little more to boogie in and out with it.

As for the crossmember, you can have yours made to be removable and still use it. I did, but, with this last install, I built a new crossmember, in case I wanted to put an automatic or Richmond Gear back in, which would necessitate using the old one.

BTW, What are your future exhaust plans? What size headers will you be running 2"? Do you plan to run them through the 2 1/2" sidepipes or can you get 3" inserts for the ones you have?

 

Why not pull the engine & tranny out as a unit? Just make sure to put a plug
in the trans output shaft so you dont leak the gear oil all over the place. Then its much easier to disconnect the trans. Did this on my 70 Bb a few months ago. Also used the same method on the Mustang ( yeah - I know):lol: . Found it much easier than laying on my back under the car, especially when the engine is coming out anyway. I usually put them back in the same way.

 

Why not pull the engine & tranny out as a unit? Just make sure to put a plug
in the trans output shaft so you dont leak the gear oil all over the place. Then its much easier to disconnect the trans. Did this on my 70 Bb a few months ago. Also used the same method on the Mustang ( yeah - I know):lol: . Found it much easier than laying on my back under the car, especially when the engine is coming out anyway. I usually put them back in the same way.

 

Yep, great info! As you noted, I would pull the engine to remove the trans. The people here who have installed it from beneath have had a hard time. Heck, I'd rather work on the clutch etc. out of the car anyway...

I saw your crossmember in one of the other posts, and it looks awesome! Now if I could just bring myself to cut my frame. :lol: :lol: One of these days, I'm gonna sell the numbers matching 427 and M21, then whip out the plasma cutter! :eek: :eek: :eek:

 

Heavens no, don't sell the NM 427, just buy another vette to tinker with.

 

:D I wish! Too many ideas, too little garage space...

You know, I've actually though about what I could get for the 427 and Muncie. I have no doubt that I could sell them for the difference in value that the car would lose, so it would be a wash (it's a 427/390, so it's pretty common). I just can't seem to bring myself to break up the happy couple ;)


[Modified by Flareside, 2:57 PM 2/4/2002]

 

I agree with SteveG75. Look at the Richmond six. If not, at least come up with the cash for the Tremec 5 speed and get an overdrive. You won't regret that .68 to one fifth gear.

Bob

 

Norval:
That Tremec sounds like the transmission for me! These rods are brand new H-Beams w/ 7/16" rod bolts. I personally didn't think I needed to change the rod bolts, but the forum members recommend changing them. What do you think Norval, I'm going to be revving probably no higher than 6500RPMs...will the stock H-Beam 7/16" rod bolts work for what I'm going for? Man that Tremec TKO with a 4.11 rear end really sounds impressive! I may consider going this route when money allows.

GWHITE75:
I already have my exhaust. I had to go with side pipes (I love them too much) and my Dynomax side pipes would be way too small for a big block. I purchased a set of Hooker Header Side Pipes for a BBC. The headers have 2" Primaries into 4" collectors. I will be running "open" headers until I save enough money to get the JCL Spiral Baffles. I would tend to think this exhaust setup should flow rather well :).

70BBvert:
Too late :). I already have the transmission dropped and sitting in my basement. I figure this should make pulling the engine much easier. I helped my buddy pull a 350SB w/ a TH350 tranny out of a truck as one....never again. It was a PITA, plus I want to make sure I don't bang my car up while pulling the engine. Good suggestion though, would have probably saved me some time.

So what do you guys thing about the ARP rod bolts. I already ordered them from Jeg's so they are on their way. If you don't think I need them, I'd just as soon return them to get my $50 back :yesnod: .

 

You may not have anything to worry about with those Cat rod bolts, who knows, but do you really want to find out? Maybe the Cat web page will tell you who made the bolts? If they're the "made in China", no name variety I would replace them. If they were made by a reputable company, keep them.

-Joe

 

Joe:
I just checked out the CAT web site and here is what it had to say about their rod bolts:

Does this mean I have ARP rod bolts already? :confused:

 

Ouch, they sure left us hanging with that one. You would hope that they mean "all our rod bolts are made by ARP with stroker application strength", but they could mean "our longer than stock rods have ARP bolts, and our stock length rods use lower cost import bolts from a factory run by Cathy Lee in Taiwan ;)" I'd give them a call. Maybe you could try the guy you bought them from?

BTW, every ARP rod bolt I've ever seen says "ARP" on the head, but I've only seen a few.


[Modified by Flareside, 7:08 PM 2/4/2002]