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Last night I put the 'Vette up on jackstands and started working on the transmission. I disconnected the driveshaft and pulled the shifter linkage out. The next step is to unbolt the transmission and pull it out. Exactly how heavy is a Borg Warner Super T10 4 speed? I can't imagine it being light, but because of the aluminum case I can't imagine it being extremely heavy either. As always I will be working by myself so any tips are greatly appreciated!
I also discovered that I will not need a driveshaft loop. I discovered this last night while diconnecting my driveshaft. I gave it a closer look and because of the rear crossmember there is no way that the driveshaft will dig into the ground, causing my car to flip over.
Maybe tonight I'll get a chance to pull the transmission :). I'm working hard on the project because I'd like to at least be able to drive the Corvette to college ONE TIME this semester with the big block in it. It seems like now that college is back in, there is an abnormal amount of souped up import cars running around with a "bumble bee" exhaust note.
The tranny is not that heavy, maybe 50+ lbs by itself. It's certainly easier to take out than to put in, let's put it that way.
I've used a floorjack with a square of 2x12 under the tranny before and it worked good, if anything else for safety reasons. If you're by yourself, be careful. I've also taken them out by sliding under it and sliding the tranny out on my chest (this was done when 1. I didn't know any better and 2. I was young , dum, and full of _ _ _) but I don't recommend it.
I use two long bolts with the heads cut off and screw them into the two upper tansmisssion bolt holes. This will allow you to slide the transmission back and out of the clutch without it falling. It will also allow you to get an idea of the weight of the transmissiion. I also use the long bolts to install the transmisssion. Roger L. Gibbons
I just lifted it out off of the crossmember., rested it on my chest, and used my butt-cheeks to do the walking out from underneath the car. It works.
I really didn't need that image. ;)
You guys crack me up :lol:. Thanks for the tip Steve, I'll probably just plop that transmission down on my chest and squirm my way out from under the car.
Question: Should I disconnect the bellhousing & clutch before I pull the engine, or should I just leave it connected to the block?
I do it the same way steve does it, Its not that bad too do. It will take a little bit of work to get the input shaft out of the bellhousing but not that bad.
Well then, I believe the title should now say "Transmission Is Out" :yesnod: . I finished pulling the transmission a few moments ago and it's now sitting on a pallet up in the garage (awaiting to be cleaned). Wasn't that bad....kinda heavy but nothing like the 454 block I had to lift. I chose to use Steve's method and did the butt-cheek boogey out from under the car with the transmission on my chest ;). I'm going to start disconnecting the engine wires and what not (I know, I'll be sure to label EVERYTHING).
Now if I could just quit being lazy and order those ARP rod bolts and ARP main studs, my uncle and I could get the short block assembled. I'm past the point of no return now....I refuse to put that transmission back in unless it's going to be mated with a 454 big block.
I'm going to take a little breather and then it's back to work!
Mine will be coming out soon also. I do the butt cheek boogie also to get it out. Not a bad job now as I have done this a few times. I'm going to put in zippers soon.
Mine will be coming out soon also. I do the butt cheek boogie also to get it out. Not a bad job now as I have done this a few times. I'm going to put in zippers soon.
It's not that bad of a job, but I think it would be 100 times easier if the crossmember unbolted like they do on an automatic.
It's not that bad of a job, but I think it would be 100 times easier if the crossmember unbolted like they do on an automatic.
I think so too, but I was really amazed at how easy it is on a nice set of jackstands. So..to add to the conversation...how many quarts of fluid go in a Super T-10? My still working fine Muncie was bone dry! :eek:
Steve:
I already have the ARP head bolts. A forum member donated them to me (used) so long as I paid the shipping. So I will be using them. I have also decided upon the ARP Wave-Loc rod bolts. The CAT rods came with 7/16" rod bolts...but they aren't ARP (the extra $50 is worth the piece of mind).
Gordon:
Which transmission do you have again (I know it's a Muncie) surely it's not a rock crusher...those things are supposed to be bullet-proof. What type of solid u-joints are you running (Brute Force?)?
AC:
I'm not exactly sure of the amount, but I do know that with the transmission in place you are to fill it up until the gear lube starts running out of the fill hole.
To be honest with you guys I don't even know if the Super T10 will be going back in. It all comes down to whether or not I can scrape the money together to get the Richmond 5 speed before spring time. If I can't get the money rounded up I will most likely throw the T10 in until I can scrape some together. I also pulled the driveshaft out tonight. I'm going to take it up to my grandfather's garage and pop the u-joints out with his press. The driveshaft is also kind of rusty and needs repainted. I will then need to find some solid u-joints to replace them with.
If you are going to use those ARP Head studs, remember that you won't be able to remove the heads from the engine while it is in the car!!!! (interference with the brake booster, a/c evaporator onthe other side, etc, etc.!!!!
I will give credit to someone else on the forum who mentioned this but I forgot who...
Shane- Good job on the removal. Slow but at least some progress is being made. Order those parts!!!!! I wish I could help you out!! I enjoy working on cars!!! I hope to go through this soon too.
If you are going to use those ARP Head studs, remember that you won't be able to remove the heads from the engine while it is in the car!!!! (interference with the brake booster, a/c evaporator onthe other side, etc, etc.!!!!
I did some crude measurements and it looked like it would work. I don't have A/C or power brakes, so does that still apply to me?
I have a Munchie M20 wide ratio Being a 72 it has the larger shafts so it is supposed to be stronger. I think it had some hard shifting before I got it. I am running solid spicer ujoints.
I think they were referring to the a/c- heater box that sticks out into the engine compartment. I am not sure if that part of the box is there on the non-a/c cars. Just something to keep in mind, though.