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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 12:27 AM
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After a few evenings of working on my alignment, I think I have gone as far as I can go on the caster and camber on the front alignment. My template was VBP specs for a daily driver.
Target camber was "0" and I got there on both sides. Caster came in at 2.6* positive on the left and 2.45* positive on the right. Goal was 2.5* positive caster.
Rear camber finished at neg .25* both sides. Target was "0" . Rear was easy, I have VBP smart struts.

My starting point was:
Left front camber .5* pos, caster 2* pos
Right front camber 1 1/8* pos, caster 2.45* pos
Left rear camber 1 3/8* neg
Right rear camber 3/4* neg

Next step is to tackle the toe, both front and rear.

Last edited by mbeeman350; Apr 26, 2009 at 10:23 PM. Reason: added info
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 12:31 AM
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Make sure your steering wheel is centered on the front before you go after the toe. And then recheck your caster/camber afterwards.
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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
Make sure your steering wheel is centered on the front before you go after the toe. And then recheck your caster/camber afterwards.
Years ago, I set up my steering column/wheel so the key lock would lock it at 12, straight up.....problem solved....

some of them don't do that, I have managed it on several cars....I"m lazy....

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Old Apr 25, 2009 | 08:40 AM
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Hey Mark, I have a question for you. What tools are you using to measure your alignment with? It has always intrigued me. I had no idea what I was doing and just aligned mine so I could get it to the shop. I used strings when doing mine. I have seen some of the gauges and though I might try one of those some day.
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Eddie 70
Hey Mark, I have a question for you. What tools are you using to measure your alignment with? It has always intrigued me. I had no idea what I was doing and just aligned mine so I could get it to the shop. I used strings when doing mine. I have seen some of the gauges and though I might try one of those some day.
Eddie I bought a caster/camber gauge and a toe gauge, off eBay. I have less than $50 in both. In the attacehd pics, mine toe gauge uses round electrical conduit. Where the one in te pic is sqaure. Came with instructions, pretty simple. Amazing how the car handles. so much better, escially at higher speeds, no more nervious or daty feeling or oversteer. So I must be fairly close.




Last edited by mbeeman350; Apr 26, 2009 at 10:06 PM. Reason: add pics
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Old Apr 26, 2009 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TimAT
Make sure your steering wheel is centered on the front before you go after the toe. And then recheck your caster/camber afterwards.
Ckecked the toe in. Came in 1/16" on the front and 1/8" on the rear. So I am good on the toe numbers. My concern was even though the total toe in number is correct, not sure it it is equal from side to side. After a 75 mph test drive, it must be OK. Car tracks straight, no pulling, corners great. So I escaped adjusting the tie rods. Thanks, Mark
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 10:08 AM
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Those gauges came from a private seller or someone who sells lots? I hope you get my meaning
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Old Apr 27, 2009 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by croaker
Those gauges came from a private seller or someone who sells lots? I hope you get my meaning
Not really... they are available from any circle track racers suppply.
Last car I aligned, took to an alignment shop to have the car checked. Came within 1/2* on all the specs, So I came in closer to the specs than most shops would. Example, If the spec calls for 1.25* to 3* postive caster. One side could could be 1.25* and the other at 2.75* and most would call it a day. Some would aim for a tighter spec
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