Breaking in engine....
04-27-2009, 10:48 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '07
Breaking in engine....
Ok, twenty minutes seems like a long time to break in a flat tappet cam. How long do I really need to run the motor to break in the cam and bearings?
04-27-2009, 10:59 PM
#4
Race Director
Mine! Check the oil pressure, warm it up, check for leaks and its ready to go. That 20/30 minute 
is just that... No factory runs them or ran them for 20/30 minutes...There started up at the end of the line and driven to the car carrier waiting outside...
Most opinions that I dont follow are either 20 and some experts can you imagine, 30 minutes...
burn up a lot of Nitro in 20 minutes
is just that... No factory runs them or ran them for 20/30 minutes...There started up at the end of the line and driven to the car carrier waiting outside... Most opinions that I dont follow are either 20 and some experts can you imagine, 30 minutes...
burn up a lot of Nitro in 20 minutes
04-28-2009, 12:26 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Mine! Check the oil pressure, warm it up, check for leaks and its ready to go. That 20/30 minute is just that... No factory runs them or ran them for 20/30 minutes...There started up at the end of the line and driven to the car carrier waiting outside...
Most opinions that I dont follow are either 20 and some experts can you imagine, 30 minutes...
burn up a lot of Nitro in 20 minutes
is just that... No factory runs them or ran them for 20/30 minutes...There started up at the end of the line and driven to the car carrier waiting outside... Most opinions that I dont follow are either 20 and some experts can you imagine, 30 minutes...
burn up a lot of Nitro in 20 minutes
than how many more times does the car sit and idle,waiting to cleaned, delivered, in transit and so on.But we have to remeber the oils were different, with zinc, and valve spring pressures were lower and cam profiles were milder on stock production cars
I bring this subject up all the time when people talk about a "break in" cylce for the rings. In the pre roller cam era. The break in period was the first 500 miles. With suggestions not ot exceed 60 mph and avoid long periods of same speed driving. So most engines then and today spend the first 30 minutes of their life idling off and on a carrier, dealers lots and driveways , warmimng up etc
04-28-2009, 01:56 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '07
I'm good on cam break in. Voodoo has a special coating on the lobes for breakin, plus assembly lube. Also running zinc additive.
04-28-2009, 05:23 PM
#11
That looks like good oil. We had the old type rotella in mine and did the break-in by the book. the cam still wiped. I went back with a roller set-up. no problems.
I wish you the best of luck. I hope it turns out ok.
Its just the luck of the draw.
I wish you the best of luck. I hope it turns out ok.
Its just the luck of the draw.
04-28-2009, 06:54 PM
#12
20-30 minutes at around 2000 RPM with like 100-200 RPM changes though out the process like 2000-2200 will help with braking it i personally would go 30 minutes if you can.
FYI have an few fans in front of the car to help with cooling.
Ryan
OH ADD ZINC ADDITIVE TO THE OIL AND KEEP DOING THIS TO KEEP FROM GETTING THE 1000-1500 MILE FLAT LOBE SYNDROME EVERY ONE IS GETTING THESE DAYS IT'S NOT THE CAM MANUFACTURES FAULT ITS OIL COMPANY'S FAULT
FYI have an few fans in front of the car to help with cooling.
Ryan
OH ADD ZINC ADDITIVE TO THE OIL AND KEEP DOING THIS TO KEEP FROM GETTING THE 1000-1500 MILE FLAT LOBE SYNDROME EVERY ONE IS GETTING THESE DAYS IT'S NOT THE CAM MANUFACTURES FAULT ITS OIL COMPANY'S FAULT
Last edited by PuddleJumper; 04-28-2009 at 06:57 PM.
04-28-2009, 08:14 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
i guess i must have gotten lucky with my last cam swap. i put an xe256h in my old 302 mustang. the only advice i had on break in is what was on the instructions card.
rotella oil with the comp cams break in additive. start and run for 20 mins at 2000 rpms.
2 years later and no problems. i didnt even know what a wiped lobe was at the time. i just knew to use oil brand X and run for this amount of time.
rotella oil with the comp cams break in additive. start and run for 20 mins at 2000 rpms.
2 years later and no problems. i didnt even know what a wiped lobe was at the time. i just knew to use oil brand X and run for this amount of time.
04-28-2009, 08:15 PM
#14
Le Mans Master
what told you the cam was wiped out of curiosity?
04-28-2009, 08:28 PM
#15
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oil oil oil... this new fancy synthetics are crap for the flat tappets.. I'm lost on it...I'm ordering a cam for my 351w marine engine, but the supplier can do the break in service for an extra 60 buck... whats the break in?
04-28-2009, 09:05 PM
#17
Well I'm not an expert engine guy, but loud popping through the carb
no power, metal in the oil. took the valve covers off and the rocker were loose. 2 of the push rods? had fallen into the engine and the rockers were just hanging there. after the cam was out you could see the damage to the cam.
The roller cam set-up was expensive but worth it IMO. more power and worry free.
no power, metal in the oil. took the valve covers off and the rocker were loose. 2 of the push rods? had fallen into the engine and the rockers were just hanging there. after the cam was out you could see the damage to the cam.
The roller cam set-up was expensive but worth it IMO. more power and worry free.
04-28-2009, 09:30 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
Well I'm not an expert engine guy, but loud popping through the carb
no power, metal in the oil. took the valve covers off and the rocker were loose. 2 of the push rods? had fallen into the engine and the rockers were just hanging there. after the cam was out you could see the damage to the cam.
The roller cam set-up was expensive but worth it IMO. more power and worry free.
no power, metal in the oil. took the valve covers off and the rocker were loose. 2 of the push rods? had fallen into the engine and the rockers were just hanging there. after the cam was out you could see the damage to the cam.
The roller cam set-up was expensive but worth it IMO. more power and worry free.
Yep, I'm not chancing it. I will gladly pop in a roller and have no worries about break-in and wiped lobes.
04-28-2009, 10:43 PM
#19
Race Director
Sorry, Rotella isn't the answer either now. EPA has mandated 2 drops in ZDDP since 2006. First drop took it to a CI rating, Second took it to a CJ rating. CJ rated Rotella T 15W-40 has 800 PPM of zink and phosphorous now. I bought a 6 gallon case in 2006. Took 1 oil change out of it. It is the CH-4 CG-4 rated 1400 PPM Rotella T 15W-40. I went to a roller cam so I have 4 sealed gallons and 1 with a quart out of it. If anyone wants to buy it PM me. Hate to dump it in the duelly when some of you guys need it. $3 a quart plus shipping. Brad Penn oil is $6
Last edited by 63mako; 04-28-2009 at 10:50 PM.
04-28-2009, 11:25 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
Start it, set the timng, set the idle when it gets warmed up, shut it off, reset the valves, start it, check for leaks, go drive it. Run it up to 2500 RPM, back off the gas and let it coast down, do that 4 or 5 times, then go to 3500, back off. Alternate between pulling (not real hard, but pulling) and coasting. After that, drive it like a rental car. If it's going to crap out, it's going to do it regardless.