Front Alignment-Puzzled
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 572
Likes: 1
From: MOBILE Al
Front Alignment-Puzzled
Got the vette aligned today on a laser machine. I have a vbp performance plus setup with a grand am rack. To get the Front caster/camber in the acceptable range we had to take all the shims out of the upper control arm bolt on the firewall side and add 1/2" of shims to the upper control arm bolt on the radiator side. We did this on both sides. The car reads perfect now and tracks just fine. The toe in/out is perfect as well. I am just puzzled at the 1/2" of shims on one bolt.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
What specs did you align to? The VBP upper control arms are designed to increase caster to the 4-5 dgr range. If you tried to align it to factory settings you would end up with a bunch of shims on one stud...
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
Stock spec will wear the tires unevenly unless your driving is very mild. If you like to take turns fast the tires will wear uneven.
Also, with a bunch on shims on one stud the cross shaft is at an angle and I've seen shims fall out.
So get it fixed fairly soon. You'll notice the handling will be much better.
Also, with a bunch on shims on one stud the cross shaft is at an angle and I've seen shims fall out.
So get it fixed fairly soon. You'll notice the handling will be much better.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 572
Likes: 1
From: MOBILE Al
Thanks for the help man. I hate standing there knowing something is wrong while its happening, but having some know-it-alls tell me its right..yadda yadda.. I knew something was up.. I found the specs on VB&Ps website. What would be me best bet, go to an alignment shop and give them the specs? Im afraid they wont know what to do.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 11,360
Likes: 382
From: Plano TX
Yes, give the specs to the shop. They shouldn't have a problem with it. The machine lets them enter any spec, it doesn't have to be the factory ones.
A good starting point from my experience:
Front
Camber: -0.75 dgr (that's negative camber, not positive like factory)
Caster: +4 dgr (w/ VBP upper control arms)
Toe-in: 1/8"
Rear:
Camber: -0.5 dgr
Toe-in: 1/8"
Note: A good shop will tweak the caster slightly between left and right to avoid a pull due to road crown. So don't be surprised if the caster is a little different from side to side.
A good starting point from my experience:
Front
Camber: -0.75 dgr (that's negative camber, not positive like factory)
Caster: +4 dgr (w/ VBP upper control arms)
Toe-in: 1/8"
Rear:
Camber: -0.5 dgr
Toe-in: 1/8"
Note: A good shop will tweak the caster slightly between left and right to avoid a pull due to road crown. So don't be surprised if the caster is a little different from side to side.
