I am painting my frame with POR15 and top coating with Krylon Gloss Black. It looks great.

My frame is in really good condition (very little rust); and I would like to keep it that way.

I want to spray the inside of my frame with POR15. Do you think this will work if I thin the paint down?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99959

 

Would be nice to spray Rust Bullet inside the frame.

 

I'm a RustBullet fan but I don't think it can be thinned for spraying. I don't have experience with POR but you have to be very careful when spraying either POR or RB. If you breathe in the vapors you can find yourself in need of serious medical attention, and the damage isn't reversible. POR and RustBullet both cure by exposure to moisture so if you breathe in vapors they will harden in your lungs. Last time I looked lungs weren't available at AutoZone.

If you want a cheap and safe coating for the inside of your frame check out chain saw bar oil. It has phosphoric acid to neutralize rust and paraffin to help the oil stick to the metal. Might need to be applied every few years in your area.

For an even less expensive coating just use used motor oil or fresh motor oil. You might have to apply it annually or every couple of years.



Rick B.

 

You have an excellent point; but I think you exagrated a bit. POR-15 vapors should not be a problem in a non-confined area. Overspray would be a problem; however a respirator should provide sufficient protection.

 

From the POR website:

Inhalation: HUMAN EFFECTS OF OVEREXPOSURE:
Inhalation of MDI vapors or aerosols in concentrations above 0.02 ppm can produce irritation of the mucous membranes in the respiratory tract, running nose, sore throat, productive cough and a reduction of lung function. Extensive exposures to concentrations well above the TLV could lead to bronchitis, bronchial spasm and pulmonary edema. These effects are usually reversible. However, due to low volatility, high exposures are not anticipated except if the material is overheated or sprayed as an aerosol into the air. Hypersensitivity pneumonitis has also been reported. Another type of response is hyperreactivity or hypersensitization. Persons with a preexisting unspecific bronchial hyperreactivity or persons with a specific isocyanate hype rsensitivity (as a result of previous repeated overexposure or a single large dosage)will respond to small isocyanate concentrations at levels well below the TLV of 0.02 ppm. Symptoms could be immediate or delayed and include chest tightness, respiratory distress or asthmatic attack.

Respiratory Protection: A NIOSH approved air-purifying respirator with an organic vapor cartridge or canister approved for use in isocyanate containing environments may be permissible under certain circumstances where airborne concentrations are expected to exceed exposure limits. In spray applications you must protect against exposure to both vapor and spray mist. An air-supplied respirator is strongly recommended for spray application. Protection provided by air purifying respirators is limited. Use a positive pressure air supplied respirator if there is any potential for an uncontrolled release, exposure levels are not known, or any other circumstances where air purifying respirators may not provide adequate protection.

I'm not your Mom so I don't really care what you do but I just like to point out the possible negative effects when someone talks about spraying stuff like POR or RustBullet. Not everyone reads the fine print on the cans.



Rick B.

 

I used the kit from eastwood i believe. a little messy

 

The best way to do it would have been to acid dip the frame, then dip in rust preventive bath....THEN paint the outside. Costly, though.

 

there was a guy on here that did this recently. Looked real nice. I can't remember what the process was called though.

 

I had mine power coated but it looks like they forgot the inside. I am planning on spraying LPS-3 or Corrosion X on the inside. It may have to get re sprayed every year though.

 

you can buy a cheap pump sprayer and thin iron oxide primerand spray till your hearts content on the inside of frame plenty of holes to get into a little messy but not to bad and not really that expensive some of the rust stoppes like ospho will work as a precoat the spray iron oxide

 

I sprayed the inside of mine with POR-15 using a rust proofing gun with a flexible wand with a 360 deg spray pattern. It tended to come out in globs (@60psi) so I think the next time I would thin it down a bit.

Dale

 

I'm not a fan of POR15 if the metal is too clean it will flake off. If I remember correctly you can only thin it down a little bit (10%?)

 

I was wondering if that would work. Overall, how was the job and were you able to clean up the rustproofing gun?

This was taken from the Rust Bullet website: Rust Bullet Automotive is formulated a bit thinner than the Rust Bullet standard formula to easily flow through an HVLP auto finishing spray system. Rust Bullet Automotive has more metal and will produce a smoother finish typically desired for automotive projects.

Maybe Rust Bullet Automotive would work better.

 

Dale: What Brand/Model of gun did you use and did it come with a can/jar. If not where did you get it from.

Thanks, Mark

 

Rust Bullet claims that their automotive product can be sprayed. In regards to the hazards, over and over again at Rust Bullet's site they make mention of precautions you MUST take when spraying. Respirator but truth is not too much that can be sprayed in the automotive world can be sprayed without a respirator.

The protection offered seems to be worth the hassle. Some of the items I painted with a Rust converter years ago are still nice.

 

I used the 3M rustproofing wand on a cheap Shutz gun to spray the inside of my frame rails

 

Mark I used the NAPA Ultra Pro rust proofing gun with cup (model#65320). When I sprayed the inside I followed all the POR directions, first sprayed marine clean then rinsed. Next came the metal ready, then rinsed. And finally the POR-15. No peeling so far.

Dale

 

just thought of what that process was I remembered a guy using on here......he galvanized his entire frame then painted it with chassis black. The galvanizing process got in every nook and cranny and it looked great. Should last a LONG time.....Although I imagine it was expensive

 

I also sprayed my frame I.D. with por-15 using a solvent gun. I did thin with por-15 solvent. I also sprayed external corners and frame seams. worked great.

 

Osphos...flows like water....That's what I did with mine...