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We had to cut almost an inch off the bolt because bad clearance from the bolt to the rim. I took a pic to show you what I mean.
If I where to hit a bump it would rub on the rim.
Heres a pic of it sitting. Sorry crappy cell pics..
oil: so I can use SM/SL grade oil in a crossfire? I wasn't 100% sure if I could or not. I almost changed the oil a few days ago with Valvoline conventional API SM/SL. Also would a synthetic oil be better? Thanks
Can you simulate a bump and see how close you come to hitting the rim?? I would hate to be going a 100 MPH and hit a bump and find out it was too close. The rims sure look nice. Gene
oil: so I can use SM/SL grade oil in a crossfire? I wasn't 100% sure if I could or not. I almost changed the oil a few days ago with Valvoline conventional API SM/SL. Also would a synthetic oil be better? Thanks
SM is not good. SL is better. The higher up the alphabet of the last letter, the newer the grade spec, and the less protection it offers for flat tappet cams.
The Mobil1 15W50 meets SL. Im running it and dont have any problems with it.
Make a quick call to 1-800-team Val Synthetic oil would be fine if the motor was new, in my opinion, but when I've talked to people who started using it in an older engine, most say it fines places to come out of where the regular oil didn't. Call that # and do a quick check on your oil. Gene
That looks much better, but you probably could have left at least another 1/2" on the bolt. The spring end moves with the wheel, so the rim wont be hitting the bolt at 100mph.
So I guess 1" longer bolt gave you 3/4" lowering. That makes more sense. Here is my ride height, and the 8" bolt is about 1/4" from the rim. I also have the TRW spring, but it was a gift. I even raised the rear end pumpkin 1/2" when I did my batwing conversion. To get it any lower in back, I will have to replace the spring with a VBP spring.
Bee Jay
domdaaxe58, that looks much better. But, we gotta get you a camera.
Agree you shouldn't have clearance issues with the spring bolt and wheel.
Guys, I've never been that much of a fan of later generation wheels on C3's, but these look sweet.
BTW, Bee Jay, you rehung your front dam yet or still playing with splitter ideas?
I rehung the front spoiler. Still thinking about adding a bit of aluminum at the bottom mostly to protect the spoiler paint. Trying to decide whether to run the 17" or 18" wheels up front. The 18s would give the spoiler about another 1/2" of clearance.
Bee Jay
I took this picture today with the 10.5x18s w/295/35-18s in back and 9.5x18s w/275/40-17s in front. I think I'll go with this. Besides, 275/40-17s are cheaper too. My tires only last around 5K miles for some reason.
Watch your exhast when lowering the rear end. I had problems with the pipes hitting where they go under the rear end. Now I have side pipes so it's not an issue anymore.
Dave
I hope you enjoy the ride after all of your modifications. You WILL be paranoid when driving due to the way you will now have to re-learn how to drive your Corvette. Been there and won't do it again, unless it is on a closed track. Don't worry about the oil, because I was going to suggest Royal Purple but when you take you oil pan out and have to change it, it would only be a waste of good oil. I really hope that the roads in your area are flat.
Usually to get a rear suspension that high, people go with a new TRW type of spring, not realizing how far out they are from the OEM arch character. If you have this TRW composite mono spring, this is adding to your problem out back.
Can you show us a picture of your rear end?
You may need 10 inch bolts to get where you need to be.
I just put in 10 inch bolts, cut to 9 inch and pretty much maxed out on the thread adjustment to get a new steel 9 leaf 80-82 spring to sit at 28.0 inch on a 27 inch tire (255-60-R15s)
My front, with 3/4 turn cut out of the coil, sits at 27 5/8 fender height on a 27 inch tire.