How much bonding adhesive do I need
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,486
Likes: 71
From: Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin
I bought some of the heat set 100EZ in order to build prior to actually bonding the nose on. I'm sure there will be areas that need substantially more than a thin layer.
On another note I ordered the Lord Fuser on Wednesday morning and received it Thursday afternoon. Pretty good service from Autobodytoolmart.com and after some real bad service from some other companies recently, I figured I should say something when a company beats my expectations.
I think I bought more than I need, but would rather try and get rid of an extra tube than not have enough when I need it.
I'm just about finished with getting the inner fenders rebuilt and repaired one was in bad shape, but I patched in sections from a scrap one. Waiting on some rivets to complete them.
On another note I ordered the Lord Fuser on Wednesday morning and received it Thursday afternoon. Pretty good service from Autobodytoolmart.com and after some real bad service from some other companies recently, I figured I should say something when a company beats my expectations.
I think I bought more than I need, but would rather try and get rid of an extra tube than not have enough when I need it.
I'm just about finished with getting the inner fenders rebuilt and repaired one was in bad shape, but I patched in sections from a scrap one. Waiting on some rivets to complete them.
Last edited by RobRace10; May 8, 2009 at 10:50 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
Fusor
I'm in Canada as you know and I could only find a good price for Fusor in the states at $45US for the 10.1 oz pairs. They wanted $71 Cdn for the same locally. I found a company 50mi away in Canada that delivers in my town weekly and I got it for $45 CDN each. What a steal.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
On another note, depending on what year you might want to consider removing all the aluminum rivets. Myself I drilled(small bit) from underneath through the rivet and glass, right through. I used a large countersink from the topside to widen the hole to take the rivets out because they are BIG headed rivets. You may have to dig a small bit out with a jewelers screw driver. If you don't do this you might eventually have the aluminum expand like it has on some cars and create two lines of raised spots right between the headlights and the hood surround. On the areas where you can't drill up because of the inner fender.....
...you're on your own. I just guessed and I was was pretty successful.
...you're on your own. I just guessed and I was was pretty successful.
Last edited by BB72; May 8, 2009 at 02:29 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,486
Likes: 71
From: Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin
My new clip has bonded only header bar, so no rivets to pop up. The old clip had to many issues such as removed fender lips, rivet pops, missing pieces in the front, corners near windshield cut to match long hood, cracks etc for me to want to deal with.
Last edited by RobRace10; May 8, 2009 at 12:34 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,429
Likes: 20
From: Kingston Ontario
wow....I thought I had a lot of work. I'm putting on a new lower valance too. My clip is pretty solid other than a little damage from when it was taken off. I bought it off a guy on the forum here. Drove 7 hrs one way to get it plus other parts . Paid $100 for the clip....good deal
