Issues with Silver Paint Rattle cans
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 166
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
Issues with Silver Paint Rattle cans
I have seen some really great looking C3 suspensions that have Silver painted components.
I have been testing various Brands of Bright/Chrome silver paints and have encoutered the same problem with all of them to varying degrees.
A week or more after painting a part, if you rub or handle a part it dulls the finish. And with some brands you will get paint on your fingers after touching it a week later.
It has been in the 80's lately so there should not be a drying problem.
I have tried Clear Coating and that resolves the problem; but it changes the appearance to a metallic gray instead of the shinny silver.
Waxing does the same.
I want to do the drive and axle shafts, the 3rd member, and various brackets.
Any suggestions?
I have been testing various Brands of Bright/Chrome silver paints and have encoutered the same problem with all of them to varying degrees.
A week or more after painting a part, if you rub or handle a part it dulls the finish. And with some brands you will get paint on your fingers after touching it a week later.
It has been in the 80's lately so there should not be a drying problem.
I have tried Clear Coating and that resolves the problem; but it changes the appearance to a metallic gray instead of the shinny silver.
Waxing does the same.
I want to do the drive and axle shafts, the 3rd member, and various brackets.
Any suggestions?
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 3
From: Springfield Illinois
Alsa Corp makes a paint called mirrachrome. It is the closest paint that looks like chrome I've ever seen. It comes in a paint can and needs to be sprayed with a gun. There also seems to be some what of a lengthy process to get the results you want. Not to mention the paint is incredibly high. Something like $1000+ per gallon and the smaller the quantity the more expensive!
Your best option is powdercoating. The chrome powder seems to give off a polished aluminum look.
Your best option is powdercoating. The chrome powder seems to give off a polished aluminum look.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
I used Duplicolor hi-temp silver paint on some of my chassis parts and didn't have any of those problems. The paint is catylized and needs ~1 week to cure fully but I saw no problems with paint rubbing off or discoloring.
Rick B.
Rick B.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 495
Likes: 1
From: Lubbock TX
Also went with a high temp paint...duplicolor silver engine enamel (Autozone is switching to rustoleum- so all duplicolor spray paint was $.01....amazing I picked up a ton of spray paint that day and a few other goodies all for about 15 cents.)
Anyway, it seems to hold up good even before its had 7 days to completely cure. It looks great too.
Sean
Anyway, it seems to hold up good even before its had 7 days to completely cure. It looks great too.
Sean
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 99
From: Orrtanna Pa.
I have seen some really great looking C3 suspensions that have Silver painted components.
I have been testing various Brands of Bright/Chrome silver paints and have encoutered the same problem with all of them to varying degrees.
A week or more after painting a part, if you rub or handle a part it dulls the finish. And with some brands you will get paint on your fingers after touching it a week later.
It has been in the 80's lately so there should not be a drying problem.
I have tried Clear Coating and that resolves the problem; but it changes the appearance to a metallic gray instead of the shinny silver.
Waxing does the same.
I want to do the drive and axle shafts, the 3rd member, and various brackets.
Any suggestions?
I have been testing various Brands of Bright/Chrome silver paints and have encoutered the same problem with all of them to varying degrees.
A week or more after painting a part, if you rub or handle a part it dulls the finish. And with some brands you will get paint on your fingers after touching it a week later.
It has been in the 80's lately so there should not be a drying problem.
I have tried Clear Coating and that resolves the problem; but it changes the appearance to a metallic gray instead of the shinny silver.
Waxing does the same.
I want to do the drive and axle shafts, the 3rd member, and various brackets.
Any suggestions?
I did have my intake powder coated a silver sparkle color. I was going to go with a more chrome look, but the powder coating shop told me if gas or oil got to it, and then I tried to clean it, it may end up turning black. The silver sparkle he recommended would not.
This stuff is tough for sure. It's been on for over a year, and looks as clean as it did day one.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 166
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
Maybe I will try the Duplicolor Hi-temp silver first.
The reason I prefer a rattle can solution is that I want to be able to do touch ups in the future. If I can keep the under carriage looking good for 5-10 years, when I sell it I will get a much better price.
The reason I prefer a rattle can solution is that I want to be able to do touch ups in the future. If I can keep the under carriage looking good for 5-10 years, when I sell it I will get a much better price.
Last edited by 2K-C5; May 8, 2009 at 01:51 PM. Reason: grammer
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,637
Likes: 27
From: Norwalk Ct
I want to reply and in now way mean to insult you, but if you are putting a clear over a silver and its going a dull grey then there are 1 or 2 things happening.
1) you are not waiting long enough to clear. So when you apply the clear the basecoat is wetting and flowing into the clear and the metallic particles are sinking.
or 2) when you are clearing you are making the clear coat too wet and the same issue as above, reflowing the basecoat. Clearing over a mettalic should be 2 medium coats to "seal the basecoat, then a final wet coat for gloss.
cheers
Nick
1) you are not waiting long enough to clear. So when you apply the clear the basecoat is wetting and flowing into the clear and the metallic particles are sinking.
or 2) when you are clearing you are making the clear coat too wet and the same issue as above, reflowing the basecoat. Clearing over a mettalic should be 2 medium coats to "seal the basecoat, then a final wet coat for gloss.
cheers
Nick
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,775
Likes: 4
ive got the same problem, but i did find a solution. never touch the part again after its painted.
i painted alot of parts silver in my rear suspension when i did it last year. still looks great now. but if i was to touch it... im sure it would look like hell.
i painted alot of parts silver in my rear suspension when i did it last year. still looks great now. but if i was to touch it... im sure it would look like hell.
