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Old May 11, 2009 | 06:41 PM
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Default Engine Mounts

Any thoughts/comments guys on the following problem. I replaced the engine mounts on my '68 with new stock big block interlock type engine mounts when installing new 528hp/565 ft/lb 489 cu in. Gearbox is Muncie 4 speed. The additional torque (compared with stock L36) is causing what appears to be excessive torque reaction and engine movement on acceleration and deccelleration - so much so that the viscous coupled fan is taking chunks out of the top of the fibre fan shroud, the left hand 'Tall' rocker cover is hitting firewall (even though I cut away firewall for extra clearance) and air filter nut is rubbing against underside of L88 hood. Q; Are the aftermarket 'Poly' mounts suitable for big blocks (I seem to remember they were only listed for small blocks?) I am weary about using 'solid' mounts on what is a street driven car.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 06:58 PM
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I have solid mounts on mine and yes, there is some vibration transmitted via the mounts. To me it's worth it for the extra stability (I also have a solid trans mount).

But if you are leary, Morosso makes a very nice poly mount that is much stiffer than stock but still dampens some vibration.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jpatrick636
I have solid mounts on mine and yes, there is some vibration transmitted via the mounts. To me it's worth it for the extra stability (I also have a solid trans mount).

But if you are leary, Morosso makes a very nice poly mount that is much stiffer than stock but still dampens some vibration.
Thanks for that - you don't think that there is any issues with passing torque direct through the chassis? Is the Moroso mount suitable for both mouse & rat motors?
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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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I have had no issues with it but I'm the type who gets rid of the radio because all I want to hear is the engine. I like the vibration (it's a little intimidating to some ricers) and I just have to check nuts and bolts once a year; which is something everybody should do. I have never had any components fail because of the vibration.

I should also mention that the solid mounts cured a problem for me; the stock mounts could not take the torque and kept breaking. From what you describe, you may be headed for that situation; if you have that much movement. The Morosso's are a good choice and yes they have whaterver application you need.

Another low tech cure for movement is an engine chain. Very simply, a chain attached from the engine to the frame. It's an old drag racers trick that is cheep and it works.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jpatrick636
I have had no issues with it but I'm the type who gets rid of the radio because all I want to hear is the engine. I like the vibration (it's a little intimidating to some ricers) and I just have to check nuts and bolts once a year; which is something everybody should do. I have never had any components fail because of the vibration.

I should also mention that the solid mounts cured a problem for me; the stock mounts could not take the torque and kept breaking. From what you describe, you may be headed for that situation; if you have that much movement. The Morosso's are a good choice and yes they have whaterver application you need.

Another low tech cure for movement is an engine chain. Very simply, a chain attached from the engine to the frame. It's an old drag racers trick that is cheep and it works.
Interestingly when I lifted the old L36 engine I found that the drivers side stock mount was separated - 8 years with the car and I thought the judder on pull away was the clutch on its way out (the clutch WAS on its way out, but just worn out) I have just found a supplier here in UK (Real Steel) listing Energy Suspension HD Poly engine mounts with safety interlock - so I guess I'm sorted (if they have in stock)
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Old May 11, 2009 | 08:09 PM
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Best of luck to you!
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Old May 11, 2009 | 08:21 PM
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I had a similar issue with left engine mount after installing my stroker...
If you have problems with the poly mount, this is an option.

Drilling through standard mount and fitting a pair of bolts to limit extension under load.
I have done this mod with the stock rubber mount, and is holding up without problem. There is only a slight increase in transferred vibration from motor under full load.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ne-mounts.html
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Old May 11, 2009 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by OzzyTom
I had a similar issue with left engine mount after installing my stroker...
If you have problems with the poly mount, this is an option.

Drilling through standard mount and fitting a pair of bolts to limit extension under load.
I have done this mod with the stock rubber mount, and is holding up without problem. There is only a slight increase in transferred vibration from motor under full load.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ne-mounts.html
And here is me thinking that the UK is is 'rip off' heaven ($195 Aussie for poly engine mounts) listed at £31 each here I will give them a try. I have to say that in engineering terms the bonding of rubber to steel without any other security is poor design (hence I guess the need for GM to incorporate an interlock device)
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Old May 11, 2009 | 09:43 PM
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I would get the stock mounts welded into one piece and use them as solid mounts. This will also stiffen up the chassis.

I went with solid mounts after breaking 3 over several years.

Good luck with it.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 10:43 PM
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Default Oldest hot rodder trick on the net.

Just drilled a hole and installed a 1/4"x20 bolt in mine. Mount still has some squish and won't bust open. Used the thinnest 1/4x20 nut i could find at the hardware store then trimmed and ground down the bolt to clearance fit the frame mount.

That's it and it costs less than a buck, er i mean less than a pound to u.
cardo0
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Old May 18, 2009 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by roscobbc
Any thoughts/comments guys on the following problem. I replaced the engine mounts on my '68 with new stock big block interlock type engine mounts when installing new 528hp/565 ft/lb 489 cu in. Gearbox is Muncie 4 speed. The additional torque (compared with stock L36) is causing what appears to be excessive torque reaction and engine movement on acceleration and deccelleration - so much so that the viscous coupled fan is taking chunks out of the top of the fibre fan shroud, the left hand 'Tall' rocker cover is hitting firewall (even though I cut away firewall for extra clearance) and air filter nut is rubbing against underside of L88 hood. Q; Are the aftermarket 'Poly' mounts suitable for big blocks (I seem to remember they were only listed for small blocks?) I am weary about using 'solid' mounts on what is a street driven car.
Well, guys Iv'e just replaced the mounts with Energy HD ones. BOTH mounts were shot!
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Old May 22, 2009 | 07:43 PM
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Well - Iv'e tried the car out - what a transformation! the engine is now rock steady on the mounts and barely moves at all under heavy torque. What is most surprising is that the gear shift quality has improved and the whole car just seems to be sharper! there is a slight bit of vibration felt through the chassis at about 2500 rpm - but no real issue
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Old May 24, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by roscobbc
Well - Iv'e tried the car out - what a transformation! the engine is now rock steady on the mounts and barely moves at all under heavy torque. What is most surprising is that the gear shift quality has improved and the whole car just seems to be sharper! there is a slight bit of vibration felt through the chassis at about 2500 rpm - but no real issue
Glad to hear of your success!
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Old May 24, 2009 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by roscobbc
Thanks for that - you don't think that there is any issues with passing torque direct through the chassis? Is the Moroso mount suitable for both mouse & rat motors?
Torque always goes through the chassis. Otherwise the entire engine would just sit there and spin like the water pump fan.
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