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My 327 with headers needs an altrnator mount and I can't figure it out. I need to find a bracket or something. I assume this has been done 100's of times and I would really ppreciate some direction. Here is another thread in which I posted a couple pictures as possibilities.
I have the header style bolt mount for the humps,and if looked hard enough up in the loft,have the original stuff from L79 I parted some time back,I believe.I KNOW I have the one that mounts to the header bolts.It is sandblasted,and painted black.
I have camel hump heads. They do not have holes in the front of the heads.
Sorry, I have the newer LT1 heads that have the accessory holes in the head. The guys are correct you will need the bracket that bolts to the header as they show.
Word to the wise. Header bolts are notorious for coming loose. I use Doug Thorley headers with the thickest flanges in the business. While the standard header bolt threads on, not all that many threads catch (because of the extra space for the mount) and I've had these two bolts continually come loose until I replaced them with two slightly longer bolts.
Last edited by toddalin; May 13, 2009 at 10:55 PM.
Word to the wise. Header bolts are notorious for coming loose. I use Doug Thorley headers with the thickest flanges in the business. While the standard header bolt threads on, not all that many threads catch (because of the extra space for the mount) and I've had these two bolts continually come loose until I replaced them with two slightly longer bolts.
I have Stans Tri Y's with 1/4 inch flanges so I have already thought of this. I want to use longer bolts also but I guess I need to know if I should use any special bolts that handle the temperatures, or just get some good grade 8 bolts. Maybe ARP bolts?
I have Stans Tri Y's with 1/4 inch flanges so I have already thought of this. I want to use longer bolts also but I guess I need to know if I should use any special bolts that handle the temperatures, or just get some good grade 8 bolts. Maybe ARP bolts?
Try to use "header" bolts. The heads are smaller so you can get a wrench on next to the pipe. The problem is finding two that are a little longer for that first cylinder to account for the bracket. Luckily, that is not too difficult a cylinder to get a wrench on.
Last edited by toddalin; May 14, 2009 at 01:57 AM.
Also use a good header gasket like a Fel Pro and some high temp blue locktight on those stainless ARP bolts and you shouldn't have any problems with bolts coming loose.
Also use a good header gasket like a Fel Pro and some high temp blue locktight on those stainless ARP bolts and you shouldn't have any problems with bolts coming loose.
Stan's sent me a thick graphite gasket with the headers. Seems soft enough that it would seal any leak. I don't really know. Thanks for the locktite tip. I didn't think of that.
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