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Battery Drain- Did I do this right

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Old May 12, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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Default Battery Drain- Did I do this right

1980 L48 Auto

I have been rootcausing a alternator/starter/battery issue for a few weeks now and I checked for battery draw yesterday based on posts in this forum.

Please confirm my process and results:

1. disconnected + battery cable at the battery (red wire)
2. set my ohmmeter to "DCA" 20mA
3. Set it in series between the battery and + cable
4. closed the doors


My results were 0.00 mA. draw

I checked for voltage with it in series and was getting about 12V.

Is this possbile (clock does not work) or is this an indication of some problem in the system?

When I did this a couple of years ago I was getting 8-9 mA draw (my clock worked then).

My issue with the alternator is that the volt gauge in the car jumps all around and I confirmed that at the battery and at the alternator- I am replacing it today.

All my connections at the starter look good and solid- no corrosion on any of the terminals.

Any comments would be appreciated

Darrel1
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Old May 12, 2009 | 10:45 AM
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Yes, you did the analysis correctly. Since you show no current draw, that indicates that nothing is ON when it's not suppose to be. A fully charged battery should be close to 13 volts with no load. Yours is kind of low. Sounds like a battery or charging problem.

Gary
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:12 AM
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I think you just popped the fuse in your meter.Are your delayed interior lights disconnected ? The timer should have pegged the meter.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by DWncchs
I think you just popped the fuse in your meter.Are your delayed interior lights disconnected ? The timer should have pegged the meter.

My dome lights are not working at this time have not rootcaused that yet- the bulb is out

How do I tell if I popped my fuse in the meter- it still measures voltage is the Amp setting a different fuse??

Darrel1
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:44 AM
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Some have separate fuses.Test something that you know has a draw like a bulb. You should be using something more than the miliamp scale.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Darrel1
My dome lights are not working at this time
If the courtesy light fuse is blown that could explain why you had no draw and the dome is not working.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Darrel1
My issue with the alternator is that the volt gauge in the car jumps all around and I confirmed that at the battery and at the alternator- I am replacing it today.
Your replacing the alternator ?
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:51 AM
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take the cover off your meter and just check the fuse for continuity.. if you connected it with your doors open you would have drawn 1000MA on the 20MA setting.. always start on the highest amp setting and work your way down.

make sure you have a good reliable reading on your MA draw..

i don't know if you should have other small current draws with an 80..
maybe radio presets, or any other aftermarket equipment?

if your battery is more than 3 years old, you can do no wrong by just replaceing it with the biggest amp cca battery you can find..
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Old May 12, 2009 | 12:39 PM
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20 Ma is to low a setting. Roger is correct, you either poped a fuse or fried the meter. Always use the highest setting when your measuring something unknown. All of my meters have a 2000ma (2 amps) setting, thats the place to start, then turn it down to a more appropriate setting if needed. The fact that you measured 12v (approx) with the meter on volts and connected between the battery termional and the red cable means you have a path and should have read some amount of current. Some meters have a 10amp setting, use that first if you have it to make the first test.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
20 Ma is to low a setting. Roger is correct, you either poped a fuse or fried the meter. Always use the highest setting when your measuring something unknown. All of my meters have a 2000ma (2 amps) setting, thats the place to start, then turn it down to a more appropriate setting if needed. The fact that you measured 12v (approx) with the meter on volts and connected between the battery termional and the red cable means you have a path and should have read some amount of current. Some meters have a 10amp setting, use that first if you have it to make the first test.
He fried his meter. He did set his range too low on his meter. I agree with you 2A provides a good safety net.
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Old May 13, 2009 | 01:14 PM
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My '78 measures 3.5 mA with no clock, stereo or alarm (fuses out). A friend advidsed me to use an analogue meter for chasing small draws. What draws the 3.5 is a mystery to me but it doesn't run down the battery.
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Old May 13, 2009 | 04:33 PM
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Analog meters are a bit easier to use for this kind of thing, but a digital will work if you know what your looking at. That said I still use a Simpson 260 for this kind uf stuff.
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Old May 15, 2009 | 09:21 PM
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It sounds like to me that you have a bad ground. Check your negative battery cable. I just bought a 1975 vette and the guy told me that he had to replace the battery once a year and thought it was the clock draining the battery. When I bought it, the car turned over real slow before it started. I then started replacing fuel lines and noticed that the negative cable was broke where it bolts to the frame and he had a clamp holding the cable to the frame. I replaced the negative cable and the car turns over great.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 10:58 AM
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Well I finally replaced my alternator on Thursday night. Checked the output at the alterantor and battery

Car running
Alternator: 14.4 V- and steady
Battery: 14.12 V-
and steady

Car Off:
Battery: 13.5 V

So I was happy as can be until Friday evening- went out to take her for a drive and nothing- same as before- hooked up the jumper cables and she fired right up.

Took the battery out and trickle charged it all night- Now everything is fine.

I think with all the rootcausing and my bad alternator I just ran the power out of the battery.

Still need to look at my Meter to see if I blew a fuse in it

Thanks for all the help

Darrel1
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