Hi All....Im having a problem on my '70. We think the activating gear is in tact, however the part underneath it that push the rod into the ignition starter has come loose or is not in the right position, because turning the key doesnt do anything. The rod that pushesthe starter switch is not moving.

We are disassembling the column to get to it, however we are at the point where we cant get the lock out. I have read Jim Shea's documents as well as other poster's articles in this forum, and we are still having issues. Based on the diagram, it seems that we can not get the locking tab free to remove the lock.

I posted an image at http://robertgeller.net/column-and-lock.jpg. Where I have the green arrow, I can see the key buzzer tab, and Im looking around the red arrow for the locking tab. From what I can see, I dont really see that I am going to get a complete visual of the tab, but I would like to know if that is the right slot to be working in, to try and depress it.

At this point, I think I need a new lock cylinder anyway, so I have no problem using the drill to get it out. I think that part of my problem is, that I dont have enough leverage to pull the lock out, even if the locking tab is depressed, so I was thinking of drilling into it and putting a bolt or screw in there to yank it out. Using the key is not working and the wing tab has broken off already.

*sigh*

Im getting desperate but I dont necessarily want to do more damage than necessary. I think that whatever is causing the issue with the activating gear may be causing the lock cylinder to be jammed.

Any suggestions?

 

Here's a pic of my 71' column. The lock release is the (second) rectangular window above the pivot pin (blue tape on the pivot pin) The window had casting flash covering it over and I had to pick it out with a small screw driver.

Gary

 

thanks for the post...this looks totally different than mine....did you see my picture?

 

I guess your pic is the backside....its been a long day....

 

I ground down the width of a piece of hack saw blade and wrapped tape around it to protect my hands. It pushed the flashing out of the way and was just the right thickness for the width of the slot. I pushed it all the way down and released the lock cylinder. I did have to pull on the lock cylinder kind of hard after I released the tab with the hack saw blade to get the cylinder to come out.

A screwdriver didn't work for me since it was tapered and would not push down far enough even with the smallest slotted screw driver I had.

 

I rebuilt the column on my 72. You have to push the tab on the lock cylinder down all the way while at the same time pulling or prying the lock cylinder out. Looking at your photo, it should be the slot with the green arrow. You should see the top of the tab inside the slot. When you insert something to push the tab down, you should be able to feel it depress. If not, squirt a little penetrating oil in the slot and let it sit for a couple of days.

 

So we were able to get the lock out. So, now, we know the problem is the Switch Actuator Rack, which is what Eckler's calls the part. Ive seen it call ignition switch rack in the 66-82 shop manual.

So I guess the real fun starts now. It seems I need Install Took J-23072 to remove the housing so i can replace the actuator rack....

I need to take a break and drink something strong....

 

So what is install tool J-23072 supposed to do? Is this a tilt column? Other than a puller for the steering wheel, a lock plate compressor, and the pivot pin puller for tilt columns, I can't think of anything else.

 

Yes, its a Tilt column. Apparently, this is the tool needed to take off what I think is called the bearing housing. There is a lock plate with tubes that has the threaded hole in it. Im thinking that this is what I can do in order to not take the whole column out. There is no other way to disconnect the actuator rod from the actual rod that moves the starter/ignition switch.

Check out this link, page 12-14.

http://books.google.com/books?id=BqQ...um=2#PPT205,M1

I cant believe what a nightmare this is turning into. I broke down the other day, just got back on the road. Problem was a bad distributor rotor. I just got the car back on the road and this happened to me in my garage (thank goodness). Luckily my father-in-law was in town this weekend, and he was helping me, but unfortunately he is leaving tomorrow.

 

Numbers must be mixed up somewhere.
J-23072=Steering wheel puller.
Got this from a pdf file scanned from the service manual written by a GM engineer for GM.

You just need the special tools Tim posted.

Search for Jim Shea papers here.

 

I think you guys are correct and I specified the wrong tool.

I re-checked the manual and it appears that the tool I need is J-21854.

 

J-23072 is for pulling the shift tube- from the pictures on the google site. You don't need that one. And the pivot pins can be pulled with a 9/16 deep socket some threaded rod and nuts and washers. take out the tilt tension spring, pull the pivot pins and the upper housing will come right off when you wiggle the tilt lever to unlock it and pull.

Noonie missed the link to Jim Shea's papers:
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ev21mr2009.pdf

The pivot pin tool is J-21854. Like I said- a deep socket bigger than the OD of the pin, some threaded rod and a nut & washer.

 

Found the site where I got the pdf of the service manual.

http://www.susanlloyd.name/media/AA/...usan_Lloyd.pdf

On the 1st written page under "steering wheel" J-23072 is listed as the steering wheel pullerand in the directions below it.
Then on page 4 in the diagrams, it shows it.

This former GM engineer is using this in her resume because she did the column and instument panel parts.

Maybe Jim Shea had run across her before at GM.

 

So If I thread the rod into the pivot pin, washer and nut and tighten the pins will come out? Im having a hard time visualizing (its late)...

Do I need to remove the spring to get the housing off? Should I be concerned with the spring when I take it out (will it fly off)?

Thanks for all the replies...

 

Make the tool from a socket and 2 washers as described in Jim's papers. I used a 1/2" lug nut because it is shorter. Turn the nut under the socket/lug nut after screwing it into the pivot pin and the pin will be pulled out. The pin is a press fit. It will come out easily. You need to remove the tilt spring. Push in on the cap with a screw driver, turn and the spring will be released. You have to push in evenly and with a lot of force. As long as you have pressure on the cap and ease off the spring will not fly off. My cap was a bit stuck so a squirt of freeze off took care of that.

 

I do not know where you are located. When I tried this rebuild about a year ago I found a shop called "Steering Columum Repair" in Flint, Michigan. They charged me $100, and it was finished the next day. That was the best $100 that I have ever spent. You are not rebuild the complete steering columum, so it might be cheaper for you. They do great work, the columum looks like brand new, and it feels like brand new too.

 

A picture is worth a 1000 words. The "special tool" is a socket, machine screw with same thread as pin, nut, and washer. Hold the screw and turn the nut on top the washer and out comes the pin. I threw in the rest of the pics in case they help you. Good luck, it's not that hard once you learn the tricks.

Gary

 

Don't forget the cut off washers as Jim describes so you don't apply force against the bowl. Here is a quote from Jim's paper.

Remove Pivot Pin - Description #5
Remove the two pivot pins #35. Each of the pins has a tapped hole so that you can use the GM tool or jury rig a puller using an 8-32 screw, nut, washer, and a ½ inch or a 12mm socket. Bridge each pin with the socket and use the screw and nut to pull them out. You will note that the bowl of the transmission control lock tube housing #58 comes right up to the edge of each pivot pin. You cannot react against the fragile bowl. But you also must keep your removal tool square to the pivot pins. Two home made tools that provide clearance to the bowl and keep things square are shown on the next page.


One other method to extract the pivot pins would be to thread a 8-32 screw into the end of each pin. Grip the screw with a slam puller tool. A few quick raps should draw the pin right out.

 

Gary,

Thanks for the detailed photos. I dont think I need to go that far on the disassembly, but I certainly do appreciate the post.

I ordered the ignition actuator rack and hopefully will be on my way to a full recovery.

 

Thanks for the reply. I went to a local corvette shop where I have been going for years and my mechanic showed me the tool. Basically, it is just a glorified threaded rod with a nut. He also offered to assist if I get stuck along the way. He told me to just bring in the column and he will show me how to rebuild it. Fortunately, I dont have to rebuild the whole thing. I certainly may take him up on that offer.