What is involved with installing a 700r4 in a C3 vette? With the added length I am aware of the shorter drive shaft. Can the cross member be moved easily and is clearance an issue. Is it worth the effort over a good 350 turbo hydramatic. Is the 350 lockup a viable alternative and what kind of power can the 350 lockup handle?

 

You are FAR better off with a 200 4r unit, same as a 350 on the install, and sets on the cross support without any extensions hanging on, like my Muncie had....uses stock driveshaft, 350 tranny yoke,

when rebuilding it, install a TRANS GO shift kit...full install,
new pump with ten vanes, new converter to your liking,

total cost for change out if you do the rebuild is about 600 bux...

 

I have a 70 with the orginal 454/390hp. Some minor mods. What would you recommend the 700r4 or 200r4? It currently has the turbo 400 in it. If I am correct in order to put the 700r4 in, All I will need to do is differrent crossmember and shorten my driveshaft.

 

You also need to wire up for torque converter lock-up. This is not optional, but the good news is that it is really easy. I went with the 700r4 because I wanted the lower 1st gear with my 2.87:1 rear end. But Gene is right that a 2004r is the same size as a th350 so you don't have to shorten the shaft. I'm not sure on the th400. Go to Bow Tie Overdrives' site. They can give you all the info you need.

God bless, Cris

 

LS or SB at 383/450+ hp is what you want...

out of them...the LS with the modded up DPFI is the way to go....gas ain't cheep forever....

 

if you are putting the 700r4 in a c3 that originally had an automatic trans there is no problem.
i put one in my 69 that was a manual trans car. the biggest problem is getting it in since the cross member is not removable. you can just take the extension off the back end of the 700r4, put the trans in and then put the extension back on.
mine was a fairly easy install since i bought the trans and all the parts i needed from bow tie overdrives. they have the trans mount that fits right in, and the shifter conversion kit for the original automatic shifter. there trans also comes wired for a lockup converter. i got the shifter and an original brake pedal stuff for the automatic on ebay, i did the install in a three day weekend.
i used a 3 inch drive shaft. if i had it to do again i would use a 2.5 inch shaft as the balance weights on 3 inch shaft will contact the underbody unless you do a bit of glass work.
one note of caution, if you are doing this on a original manual transmission car without the removable cross member you will need to use the trans yoke with the straps and nuts as there is no way to swing the drive shaft into place with the trans yoke on.
if i keep the car at 65 on the freeway i get about 27mpg with my old 350/300. the torque in first gear is a definite kick in the seat. easy to light em up, and lots of fun.

 

It is a Fantastic switch! I love my 700 R4 like there is NO tomorrow! Easily one of the best switches I have made on my 74

 

Look at BowTie Overdrives site. They sell transmissions, but also all the support stuff too. Basically you shorten the driveshaft, get/make a custom crossmember, add a detent to the shifter, decide what to do for lockup. I have one and it is just fine. With 3.7 gears and TPI fuel injection I get 18 mpg city and over 20 highway. 700R4 has such a steep first gear that I really would like 3.36 rears for better balance.

You can also go 200R4, but it costs a lot to build it to a level that will take the power. Stock 200R4 is pretty weak which is why it was never used by GM behind anything larger than a 307 (Olds)-never in a Corvette, never stock behind a 350 or 454. Nothing wrong with it either, just don't use it stock.

 

200 4r since I rebuilt it is just fine for me, SO FAR, but I credit the TRANS GO shift kit for lots of that, the rebuild parts were just stock ALTO type stuff, nothing radical....and a ten vane pump, and a tight truck converter.....I like to feel the kick in the *** when it shifts...none of that woosey stock slush o matic crap for ME, if I was not so nervous about it, I maybe should block the accumulator valves...REALLY hear the drive shaft ring THEN.....

 

What shifter are folks using with the swap?

 

A friend of mine built my 700R4 and he has figured out how to make the torque converter lock up using the valve body and some valving, don't ask me how. It works really slick and no electrics to wire in.

I used the BTO crossmember and TV cable setup. I like the adjustabillity. I got the shifter conversion from Shiftworks. It all made for a nice package.

 

my 82 came with the 700r4 but once you start to make some real hp say bye bye to a stock unit. once i had it rebuilt and slipped in a 3000 rpm lock up converter with a toggle switch for the option of not using it, life is good. remember that with the 700r4 you cant hold it in 1st gear without either modifying the shifter or going to a real shifter. i actually squeezed in a b and m mega console shifter and now i can hold 1st as long as i want. dont forget to put in the largest tranny cooler possible and use a larger volume pan as well. also remember that after 500hp all bets are off no matter what the tranny builder says!!

 

The 82 tranny was very weak. If you go to build one use an 88 or later. There are a lot of pieces available for the 700R4 to make it a very strong tranny these days.

 

Here are the sizes, looks like the 200-4R and the TH400 are a direct change except for the yoke, but the TH350 yoke fits the 200-4R. No cross member modifications.

 

I certainly do LOVE my installation

 

The shift up to second gear from first gear when the shifter is still in first gear is controlled by the valve body not the shifter. I am just using the stock shifter with the Shiftworks conversion and can hold it in first gear till my motor blows if I want to. It is because the valve body was modified to do so.

Before someone else says it, the shift from first to second when in Drive is controlled by the governor and the TV cable/valve.