When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You're still bottomed out, DON'T LEAVE THEM LIKE THIS!
If you can't get the adjustment right with the engine off, you'll have to adjust them with it running. Get a set of rocker oil clips so you don't spray oil all over the place. Take the valve cover off and with the engine idling loosen the rocker until you hear clacking. Slowly tighten until it is quiet and then (slowly) give it another 1/2 turn.
sounds like he has solid lifters on a hydraulic cam to me...just a thought....
You're still bottomed out, DON'T LEAVE THEM LIKE THIS!
If you can't get the adjustment right with the engine off, you'll have to adjust them with it running. Get a set of rocker oil clips so you don't spray oil all over the place. Take the valve cover off and with the engine idling loosen the rocker until you hear clacking. Slowly tighten until it is quiet and then (slowly) give it another 1/2 turn.
X2 You must have bottomed the plungers inside the lifters.
Sounds to me like he has hydraulic lifters and adjusted them to the bottom of the plunger travel thinking that was zero lash.
i guess that could also be the case although you would think after all that tightening the rockers he would notice it .....oh well at least he has an answer to the problem....
When the car was cold i adjusted them to zero lash +1/2 turn, car wouldn't start
i then took 1/4 off, still wouldn't start
i then took another 1/4 off, then i could feel and hear the compression, so i was back to zero lash, car started
1 then once hot put a 1/4 back on, car wouldn't start
i then took 1/4 back off, car started
basically i've left it at zero lash and i've got a bad back
i soaked the lifters in oil but forgot to pump them up
This sounds to me that you are thinking zero lash is when the lifter is bottomed out. Zero lash to me is when the tip of the rocker and the lifter 'first' meet and 'first' provide friction when you turn the pushrod. I say this because GM suggests 1 FULL turn after zero lash and you're saying you can't get compression past zero lash.
Someone support or shut me down here. I'm afraid he's about to bend some valves. No offense...
Edit: I didn't notice there was a second page and it appears others agree with me.
Last edited by 71_S-Ray; May 26, 2009 at 03:36 PM.
i'm aware zero lash is the point where you tighten the rocker to the point where you can't spin the pushrod with your hand.
The car run great now, 2 pumps of the throttle, turn the key and i'ts running and idling within 5 seconds or so, my issue is that i can't even put 1/4 turn on them as i will have no compression, surely i must be able to put at least 1/2 a turn, i'll get her hot and adjust them slowely while it's idling and see what occurs.
I thought hydraulic lifters where meant to make life easier!!
give me solid lifters any day, you know where you stand
Last edited by aaroncorvette; May 27, 2009 at 09:41 AM.
i'm aware zero lash is the point where you tighten the rocker to the point where you can't spin the pushrod with your hand.
The car run great now, 2 pumps of the throttle, turn the key and i'ts running and idling within 5 seconds or so, my issue is that i can't even put 1/4 turn on them as i will have no compression, surely i must be able to put at least 1/2 a turn, i'll get her hot and adjust them slowely while it's idling and see what occurs.
I thought hydraulic lifters where meant to make life easier!!
give me solid lifters any day, you know where you stand
Right now you have them set as if they're solids. That's why you can't adjust them any further.
Zero lash is when there is zero clearance on the push rod. Not when you can't turn it anymore.
Right now you have them set as if they're solids. That's why you can't adjust them any further.
Zero lash is when there is zero clearance on the push rod. Not when you can't turn it anymore.
For what it's worth, here's a quick way to rough in valve settings. Crank the nut nown until there are 4 threads showing above the top of the nut. An old Chevy mechanic gave me this tip. When I went back and checked them the "standard" way, sure enough, 4 threads. If you have more than 4 showing then you have the lifter bottomed.
thanks guys,i've got roller rockers with polylocks, perhaps i'm not explaining myself right,
i adjusted the rockers as follows- spin pushrod with one hand and tighten rocker gently until it grips pushrod and i can't turn it any more, thats it
if i slackened the rockers off 1/8th of a turn they would be claking, i haven't adjusted them down so far that they have 'bottomed out', i.e tightened the rocker so much the lifter is squashed in, i've taken care with this build, unless by 'bottoming out' you guys mean something else
i'll adjust them slowly once warm tomorrow, cheers
Forget the notion that zero lash is where you can't spin the pushrod. I've adjusted valves on hydraulic cammed engines where you can still easily spin the pushrod with the valve at full lift!!! Rattle the pushrod up and down, zero is where it won't move up and down any more with the valve on the seat. Then tighten it down 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
Forget the notion that zero lash is where you can't spin the pushrod. I've adjusted valves on hydraulic cammed engines where you can still easily spin the pushrod with the valve at full lift!!! Rattle the pushrod up and down, zero is where it won't move up and down any more with the valve on the seat. Then tighten it down 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
L88's right - but the "spin" method still works. Zero lash is the first time you feel ANY "drag" when rolling the pushrod between your fingers. Loosen the valve, start to tighten it down and you'll feel that spot where it's clearly not spinning 100% freely any more.
It's one of those "feel" things that's very hard to describe, but a huge "Ah-HAH!" when you actually do it.
I've been caught out on the "spin the pushrod 'til it tightens" approach before. I now use a 1 & one half thou feeler gauge. As soon as I feel the slightest amount of pressure on the gauge, I call that "zero", then do the half turn bit. Seems to work for me.
I've been caught out on the "spin the pushrod 'til it tightens" approach before. I now use a 1 & one half thou feeler gauge. As soon as I feel the slightest amount of pressure on the gauge, I call that "zero", then do the half turn bit. Seems to work for me.
How have you been "caught out"? And, how does a .0015 difference help when we're seeking ~.025 lash?
Not questioning, as there's a million ways to skin this cat - but curious.
The spin the pushrod method is responsible for large numbers of valve adjustment screw ups.
So many in fact that I would never tell someone to do it that way.
The jiggle method works great.
Do you have a brand and part number for the lifters? Sure sounds like solids to me. When it does run is it quiet on the top end or can you hear that tell-tale tapping of solid lifters?
The spin the pushrod method is responsible for large numbers of valve adjustment screw ups.
So many in fact that I would never tell someone to do it that way.
The jiggle method works great.
How have you been "caught out"? And, how does a .0015 difference help when we're seeking ~.025 lash?
Not questioning, as there's a million ways to skin this cat - but curious.
Hi Billa, caught out because I spun the pushrod until it would spin no more and assumed that was the "zero" point. Just like the originator of this thread, I ended up with no compression on some cylinders. As someone else has pointed out, some pushrods can be turned even when the valve is open. The feeler gauge is just my method of determining when there is zero lash. Because its only 1 & 1/2 thou, I doubt it effects the adjustment or end result much.