When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
OK Gang here goes! Have a 71' with 4spd. got lots of useful info for adjustment so we can quit hitting the center consol but now is the day I got under the thing and found that on the rods there are NO JAM nuts on any of the linkage on the side of the tranny! Well the only adjustments are on the linkage under the shifter, it seems that you would take them loose from the tranny linkage and then screw them in or out on the shift linkage. I know that when we bought this the engine was not correct block now I will get the books out to check the tranny. Any words to the wise on how to adjust this would help. Like I said before we have to have the trim plate loose so we can pick it up to put it in reverse.
Sounds like you have an aftermarket Hurst shifter. See photo. It adjusts the same way, only use a 1/4" drill to lock all the levers in the neutral position. This is on a Borg Warner T-10. Your Muncie linkage might be a little different, but the adjustment procedure is the same. Remove the lever from the trannie and rotate the link.
OK Gang here goes! Have a 71' with 4spd. got lots of useful info for adjustment so we can quit hitting the center consol but now is the day I got under the thing and found that on the rods there are NO JAM nuts on any of the linkage on the side of the tranny! Well the only adjustments are on the linkage under the shifter, it seems that you would take them loose from the tranny linkage and then screw them in or out on the shift linkage. I know that when we bought this the engine was not correct block now I will get the books out to check the tranny. Any words to the wise on how to adjust this would help. Like I said before we have to have the trim plate loose so we can pick it up to put it in reverse.
THANKS WRO87
Hurst shifter rods are threaded on the shifter end and go through a fitting that connects to the shifter. You twist the rods clockwise to make them shorter and counter-clockwise to make the longer.
There should be jamb nuts at the shifter end even though they shouldn't be necessary since once the rods are properly connected to the shift levers they can't turn.
Thanks gang Yes After some more cleaning I found that the shifter is a Hurst Competion Plus. Now the one thing that I noticed is that there is no rear tranny bracket that bolts to the shifter and to the back of the cross member. Since I don't have the instruction sheets for the Hurst is this supose to be on there and is it needed? Like I said the linkage will not go into reverse and hell of a time on first and second without the trim plate lifted out of the way. Will the shifter/tranny backet solve this problem?
wro87
DUKE 94 does your tranny use the bracket also or just the tranny mount only.
Trying to do this under the car without taking the tranny out, yes we have a 4 post lift and it is paying for itself.
Thanks gang
DUKE 94 does your tranny use the bracket also or just the tranny mount only.
Trying to do this under the car without taking the tranny out, yes we have a 4 post lift and it is paying for itself.
The Hurst shifter bolts right to the side of the trannie. There is no bracket attached to the cross member. That's why the stick shacks with the engine.
Gary
Here's the instructions that came with my shifter.
DUKE94 Thanks for the intructions (print it out)that will be a big help got everything lined up and the dam shifter still hits the side of the consol trim plate not as bad as it was but now you have to lift it up out of the way so you can get it in reverse. Going thru the FSM i see that there is a rear bracket for the tranny/shifter to bolt to the crossmember, ours is missing will this help to get it back over to the passenger side. Maybe motor mounts bad did replace the tranny with a poly unit. Thanks wro87
DUKE94 Thanks for the intructions (print it out)that will be a big help got everything lined up and the dam shifter still hits the side of the consol trim plate not as bad as it was but now you have to lift it up out of the way so you can get it in reverse. Going thru the FSM i see that there is a rear bracket for the tranny/shifter to bolt to the crossmember, ours is missing will this help to get it back over to the passenger side. Maybe motor mounts bad did replace the tranny with a poly unit. Thanks wro87
You need a different shifter handle (part number 6 above) to stop it from hitting the console plate. They sell a handle that is bent to the right just above the mounting surface. The handle leans to the right therefore clearing the console.
I have one I'm not using if you are interested.
Also, I'm not sure what you are seeing in the above instructions but there is no bracket on a Hurst to mount to the crossmember. Only the factory shifter has a bracket to mount to the crossmenber.
cc
Last edited by CCrane65; May 26, 2009 at 10:34 PM.
Thanks for the info. We have the Hurst shifter that came with all the parts that we got when we purchased the car. It appears that some one in the past, put what looks like the original shifter in with the t-bar. Maybe this is not the correct application for this shifter. Well we'll get the Hurst one out and try it. Thanks for the info on the rear bracket ours is missing and we searched in all the parts and can not find it I was thinking that this was needed to help locate more to the passenger side.
Thanks Guys
Thanks for the info. We have the Hurst shifter that came with all the parts that we got when we purchased the car. It appears that some one in the past, put what looks like the original shifter in with the t-bar. Maybe this is not the correct application for this shifter. Well we'll get the Hurst one out and try it. Thanks for the info on the rear bracket ours is missing and we searched in all the parts and can not find it I was thinking that this was needed to help locate more to the passenger side.
Thanks Guys
I purchased one of the original looking shifter handles from Corvette central and it also leans to the right. You may have one that was made for a C2 if it is straight up and down.
I say original looking because the original shifter handle will only work with the factory shifter. It doesn't have any holes in it for mounting bolts like the Hurst uses. They use a pivot pin that runs lengthwise from front to back through a base that is about 1 inch square. From the bottom of the base there is a tail shaped like a hook pointing forward that slides between the shift gates for gear selection.
I had to put my handle (part # 6) in a vise and bend it somewhat to avoid hitting the side of the console. Yes, the handle is a thick part but it will bend without heating it.
Good Luck
I had to put my handle (part # 6) in a vise and bend it somewhat to avoid hitting the side of the console. Yes, the handle is a thick part but it will bend without heating it.
Good Luck
DUKE94 Thanks Going thru the FSM i see that there is a rear bracket for the tranny/shifter to bolt to the crossmember, ours is missing will this help to get it back over to the passenger side.
68 C3's have the shifter attached to a crossmember bracket. I think on 69 and up, all the shifters attached directly to the transmission. Because of this change (I think) the 68 shifter rods are different than the 69 and up.
I forgot about the above detail. When I removed my 70 BB/tranny assembly from the car, I assumed that just disconnecting the shifter rods meant the transmission was ready to slide out. When I tried to pull the engine out, something was jamming where the tail of the tranny was sitting on the crossmember support bracket. I took me awhile to realize the jam was the shifter lever sticking up into the console. It was then I realized the shifter on the 70 was attached to the tranny. Removing the shifter and the engine/tranny zipped right out.
68 C3's have the shifter attached to a crossmember bracket. I think on 69 and up, all the shifters attached directly to the transmission. Because of this change (I think) the 68 shifter rods are different than the 69 and up.
I forgot about the above detail. When I removed my 70 BB/tranny assembly from the car, I assumed that just disconnecting the shifter rods meant the transmission was ready to slide out. When I tried to pull the engine out, something was jamming where the tail of the tranny was sitting on the crossmember support bracket. I took me awhile to realize the jam was the shifter lever sticking up into the console. It was then I realized the shifter on the 70 was attached to the tranny. Removing the shifter and the engine/tranny zipped right out.
Are you talking about Hurst or factory shifters? Because the factory shifters for 69 and up also have a bracket that bolts to the crossmember.
I just looked at the Hurst installation kit for 1968 and it has a direct transmission attachment bracket also and no crossmember bracket.
HAY GANG Thanks for all the input I am going to go back up to our shop and check things out. As you guys have said I can bend the Hurst shifter some and then I will check out to see what kinda of "T" handle we have to see itf it has a bend in it. So far we have only broken the backend fiberoptic lens's in the console from moving it around, and my son has gotten pretty good at finding parking where he didn't have to back up. Well I will let you guys know how it comes out. THANKS AGAIN!!!
wro87
HAY GANG Thanks for all the input I am going to go back up to our shop and check things out. As you guys have said I can bend the Hurst shifter some and then I will check out to see what kinda of "T" handle we have to see itf it has a bend in it. So far we have only broken the backend fiberoptic lens's in the console from moving it around, and my son has gotten pretty good at finding parking where he didn't have to back up. Well I will let you guys know how it comes out. THANKS AGAIN!!!
wro87
PS: Just where did you have to bend it? Just above the bolt hole abd about how much?
OK GANG here is the final end . With all the help I got I am glad to say that it is all back together and it shifts fine without hitting the console. The PO had put a t-handle shifter on it (must have been an old style and it did nothave the bend to the right to make up for the HURST Shifter. Well we dug out the old one in the boxs and found the origianl HURST shifter with the bend in it (it had the part# stamped in it to match the insturction sheet that DUKE included). Well after totally dimanteling the center console( BAD BRAIN FART did not have to do) we now have it back together and shifts great the alingment instruction helped out GREATalso.
Thanks GANG BACK ON THE ROAD AGAIN
wro87
Now the next thing is to get the 2 bolts drilled out and helio coiled on the wiper door:o